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Old 06-07-2010, 11:44 AM   #15
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I got the old Norcold out and the new Whirlpool in thru the entry door. Had to remove the screen door and release top door stop to open the entry door as wide as it would go. And also removed the inside grab handle. Like I said, checked the dimentions on the internet web site real good and measured about six different times the door opening to be sure I could get fridge in without removing windshield. Take note that doors on the fridges can and must be removed to get into the coach. Goodluck and let us know how you make out.
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:38 PM   #16
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frig conversion

I am assuming that you use your inverter to supply voltage to the frig while driving as you dont have the propane ability, how has this effected your batteries if at all.
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:31 PM   #17
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I failed to mention that I had to change the breaker in the cabinet to feed off the inverter. That was no problem and now we run on the inverter while in transit. Hasn't affected the batteries that I can see. Still check them every 1st of the month and add water. This fall I am going to install AGM's due to these being almost 6 years old and they are doing a lot of gassing. Was told by battery person that the older a battery gets, the more gassing it does. (That sounds familiar to some of us older people . Anyway, after cleaning up the battery trays again, won't ever have to do it again.
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:23 AM   #18
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I'm not planning to run off an inverter, so I'm thinking I do not need to change any breakers. Would that be correct?
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:30 AM   #19
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I think he meant to say he wired 110 outlet off inverter to feed refrigerator.
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:46 AM   #20
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I did mean to say that I changed the wiring in the electric panel so that the outlet feeding the new fridge was on the inverter. Didn't mean to mislead anyone.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:01 PM   #21
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shadrack,

I'm still mulling over this install. In one of your previous posts I noticed that you lowered your refrigerator support floor to within 1.5 inches of the top of the furnace. How did you handle the water drain pipe, and furnace propane tubing? In my case both run over top of the furnace. It does not look to me that the drain pipe will allow the floor to be lowered to 1.5 inches above the furnace.
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Old 06-17-2010, 05:18 PM   #22
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Brigadoon,
I did not have to bother with a drain pipe. The gas line to the furnace was reconfigured to lay over the furnace. It's only a 3/8" line, so there is plenty of clearance. If you are speaking of the water fill line for the old absorbtion fridge, I needed to extend it to get to the water inlet on the new fridge. That was all I had to contend with. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:02 PM   #23
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Do you have to run your generator all the time to keep it powered? If not how do you work it?
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Old 08-15-2015, 10:01 PM   #24
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:20 AM   #25
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HWYCRUSIERS welcome to the forum and irv2.
Here is a thread with the final results of Brigadoon's install of his refrigerator with how he ran his fridge.
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:23 PM   #26
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I would seriously consider sealing outside door and roof vent if you do cold weather camping. The Norcold is sealed top,bottom and sides but the residential refers are not. They will let in cold air and/or fumes. Most residential refers vent from the bottom. I installed a Samsung Rf 197 (discontinued) and sealed side and top vents and it works perfectly.
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:45 PM   #27
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i just installed a GE that i got at home depot. had to trim a little off the top of the cabinet, but otherwise fit fine. i placed it over the furnace with no problem. it was a tight squeeze, but also got it thru the door. removed the doors and shelving, and it was much lighter than the norcold.
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:44 PM   #28
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What model GE did you use I'm shopping around now to do this.
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