norcold #1200LRIM Cooling issues

[927palmetto]

This is a 4-door fridge in a '05 MADP. The coldest setting is "9." With the unit on the coldest setting, it barely maintains 40 degrees. For example, with interior coach temperature between 70 and 78 degrees, over a 24 hour period, the unit will read 40-42 degrees, with one reading at 38 degrees,, and two in excess of 45 degrees. Cooling is within 1 to 2 degrees between top and bottom of fridge. Freezer maintains 10 degrees or less. I have owned 3 other coaches with Norcolds...all would freeze items in the fridge on any setting lower than "7." Performance is the same with AC and LP. The unit has been removed, serviced, and has had insulation repairs. Can someone confirm that the cooling of my unit is below average? I am preparing to push for a replacement. Thanks!!!!!

[Edmund A Skibinski]

927palmetto, maybe your cooling unit is bad, pull the outside cover and look to see if there is a greenish yellow residue inside if there is the cooling unit needs to be replaced. Ed.S

[rebelsbeach]

Before you replace the unit like I had done, get someone to check the air circulation fans in the vent area behind the refrigerator. My coach has a lower and upper SIDE vent and no roof vent and also has two fans at the top of this area of which neither were working.

I would have the tech check the thermal disc that attaches to the condenser on the rear of the refrigerator.The fans mentioned were prevented from coming on as the thermal disc was bad.
Once the tech replaced the thermal disc the refrigerator made 32 degrees...

[ronboc]

Hi 927palmetto -

Ditto what Ed and Bob said. I had a older Norcold that started to ooze the greenish-yellow stuff, and it would cool but not well. Norcold picked up the tab, even though it was out of warranty. It did fall 'just barely' outside the serial numbers of the recent recall (but I 'think' yours may be too new to qualify for that recall - may be wrong though!).

Most of the other frigs I've had (Norcold or Dometic) did seem to work better with one of those add-on itty-bitty fans blowing past the outside coils. Cooling airflow seems to be critical on them, as does sun-loading on that wall.

I think my new 1200LRIM already has a fan on the outside coils, but I haven't dug into it yet. At least I've heard something whirring in there from time to time when I walk past. Perhaps your fan (if it has one, too) isn't spinning?
I keep my setting at 6 or 7 in almost any weather, and it's keeping the frig coils at about 28-30F and freezer at 0- -5F. Oh, and it is vented at the bottom and out the top, if any of this helps.

Good luck,
Ron

[927palmetto]

Thank you for the replies. The unit has been thoroughly tested by dealer with Norcold input, so the fans, cooling unit, etc. check out. The fridge's performance has never been good, and about 3 months ago deteriorated to the point where the fridge was attaining 55+ degrees during the "frost maintenance" cycle. Norcold directed the removal of the fridge and the repair/replacement of insulation on the back of the fridge. Performance has returned to "normal," but it still is poor in my opinion. Ronboc's fridge performance is what I would expect.
I am going to contact Norcold again. They did indicate that on the coolest setting, the fridge should have no trouble holding 40 degrees. I don't think mine will do that, especially is it is more than 80 degrees in the coach.

["007"]

DON'T take their word for it place a heater in refer vent and apply heat you should hear the fans come on when it gets hot enough. You can also place a fan after doing this and see if your box temp drops inside. If you do not have either of these than you need a new refer or cooling unit. Save yourself alot of trouble by doing these simple tests. My fans will cycle on and off on a warm day.
We have been chasing these problems this summer and its been the FANS.
You didn't say if your kitchen is on a slide you may also need a baffel to push heat out of the top vent. If you have a roof vent your ok as long as those fans work.
If it does turn out to be the fans not working, easiest way out of problem, the Newmar part # for themal switch is 36T22 11823 F65-15C SAS-65A A0525. Good luck in solving your problem.

When you have the time can you post in signature profile block your coach info thank you.
As a Newmar owner we give out KARMA on this Newmar forum for all owners.

[footdoc]

I have never heard any fan noise in mine...cooling minimum gets to about 38 overnite with a 9 setting. I have a roof vent and no slide...should I have a fan too?

[rebelsbeach]

If you have a side venting refrigerator your fan(s) are just below the top vent...When you take the upper cover off you'll need to look just below the opening.

The idle hum you hear from below is most likely NOT the fans...been there and done that.

Once you hear the fans you'll know the next time you listen.

[sgw]

I fought my Norcold for 2 years. Sometimes cold, sometimes not.
NOCO message 4 + times Dealer / service techs would re-set.
It would work one time then not the next. No green slime.

I finally put a small fan ($6.00 at WallMart) in the outside compartment.
It got colder than it ever has and I could run it on 6 or 7 when it was in the 90's outside.

Turns out that there are 2 fans above the top coils, if you reach way up there you can feel them.
My fridge is NOT in a slide so I didn't think it had fans but they are there.
With a little investigation I found a small button thermostat/switch high above that was defective, a $5 part.
I jumpered the thermostat and the fans came on (I believe for the first time ever) and it worked great.
I then got a new thermostat and installed it. Now the fridge works like it should.

You may have fans even if fridge is not in the slide.
If they are not running your fridge will only get cool NOT cold.
Reach up beside the lower coils and you will fell them if they are there.
If they do not come on, go up on the roof, remove the shroud around the vent and jump the thermostat.
if the fans come on that's the problem.

If your fridge IS in a slide the fans MUST run for it to work. You should be able to hear them. (They will shut off when you open the door of the fridge.)

If they are not running that's the problem, If they are then you have cooling unit problems OR there is a blokage or not enough clearance behind the fridge for proper air movement.

Give us some more info. Slide mounted? Fans Running? Green leakage?

Scott Williams
04 Essex

[rebelsbeach]

Scott, the item you refer to on the condenser that controls the fans is what they're calling a "thermal disc" now a days....

I had one replaced several months ago and it solved my problems as well...

My refrigerator is side vented and not in a slide out.

[rebelsbeach]

[927palmetto]

Thanks for the input. The fans definitely run. The fridge is not in a slide. No spooge from the cooling unit. I also have had about 5 "NOCO" defaults in the 18 months I have owned this coach. I have always been able to reset the fridge, but I suspect that this is related to the overall poor performance with the fridge. I anticipate that Norcold is going to say that if it maintains 41 degrees, even on its coldest setting, then it is performing within tolerance. I say, "no way."

["007"]

Have you done the "reset on the ckt board" or just from the panel on refer.

[ronboc]

Any updates, anyone?

A few months back here, I'd posted mine was working well. Guess I forgot to knock on my head (I mean 'wood'), as mine is now doing the same thing as 927palmetto's. Just had it to Monaco Service and they decided the insulation wasn't working so they repacked and resealed it. No joy, however.

Fans will run if jumpered across the disk, and disk does click on/off when I took it out and tested it on a stove with an infrared theromoeter. At best, 5-8F degrees in both freezer-sides and 38-45F in the frig itself, with very slow to catch up when doors are opened. What I find very telling is that I can put my hands on any of the outside coils (except the very lowest part of the bottom one) and they're actually cool to the touch (the boiler column does get hot, however). I think I'd get better performance with a block of ice inside (hmmmm, can you still get ice-blocks?).

I read a post where someone suggested using a rubber mallet to 'whack' the coils in the theory that it might have an ammonia-clog or something, and the jarring would break it loose. Didn't work but it sure felt good to whallop out some of my frustration on the thing.

How tough is it to actually get Norcold/dealer to decide it IS the cooling unit and do something serious about it? Resealing the back didn't seem like much of a solution, but it was all they would go for. I've always been big on trying the inexpensive/simple fixes when working on something myself, but this seems pretty clear-cut by now and I need to get this resolved quick.

Any thoughts are appreciated (desperately).