Norcold Model 1200

[reed1950]

AC power good / LP good (I can hear the "fire" outside at vent). Lights in frig good.

No cooling on AC or LP.
HELP - I have no clue about these things.
Is there a reset button or anything??

[rrs-ase-evt]

Remove outside vent cover, look for any signs of a leak. Sounds like the cooling unit let go. Also you may notice a strange smell.

[ottffss]

Google for the Norcold manuals. If you hear the flame there may be a lot more going wrong. Here's how to enter the diagnostic mode from the front control panel. It might help to pinpoint the problem


That is how to enter and use the Norcold 1200 diagnostic codes.

Diagnostic mode: hold both set temp & mode for 5 seconds..
screen 1 – all segments lit test
hit mode
screen 2 – no segments lit test
hit mode
screen 3 – fin temp
hit mode
screen 4 – stored fault history #1
should have a “4” and blank. If not blank
top seg = burner failed to light
left upper seg = door open more than 2 mins
right upper seg = DC volts low
middle seg = DC volt high
bottom left seg = AC mode selected but no AC
bottom right seg = AC relay stuck closed
bottom seg = AC heaters failed open
hit mode
screen 5 stored fault history #2
should have a 5 and blank. If not blank
top seg = thermistor malfunction
left upper seg = flame present with gas valve off
right upper seg = not used
middle seg = not used
bottom left seg = flame sensing fault
bottom right seg = AC voltage over 135
bottom seg = no cooling sensed

hit mode
screen 6 is used to clear the stored faults
screen shows Er – press and hold set temp until CL shows
wait 5 seconds
press and hold set temp until Er appears again indicating all erased
hit mode
screen 7 power board inputs
top seg = fresh food compartment light is off and door is closed
left upper seg = LP gas operation
right upper seg = thermistor is sensing temperature
rest of segs not used
hit mode
screen 8 power board outputs
top seg = AC relay is closed
left upper seg = not used
right upper seg = DC power to divider heater
middle seg = DC power to gas valve solenoid coil
bottom left seg = DC power to light circuit
bottom right seg = DC power to ignition circuit
bottom seg = not used
hit mode
Screen 9 DC voltage input
top seg = over 15.4VDC
mid seg = 10.5 – 15.4 VDC
bottom seg = below 10.5 VDC
hit mode
Screen 0 – AC voltage inout
top seg = over 132VAC
mid seg 108-132 VAC
bottom seg = below 108VAC
END of screens
Pressing mode again will cycle back through

To exit press and hold mode and set temp

[dforce1]

Are the fans running, OEM Norcold cooling unit is a must. No fans no cooling.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by dforce1

Are the fans running, OEM Norcold cooling unit is a must. No fans no cooling.

Wouldn't that depend on if the refer is in a slide or not? Normally the roof vents don't need the fan but in a slide (sidewall vent) it does.

[Perry White]

Mines not in the slide and it has the fans.

[ottffss]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Wouldn't that depend on if the refer is in a slide or not? Normally the roof vents don't need the fan but in a slide (sidewall vent) it does.

Sometimes roof design configuration also limits the ability to use the (much preferred) roof vent. My refer is not in a slide and uses a side vent (unfortunately) and not the roof vent - because of the on roof awning mounting which would have blocked the roof vent I suppose.

["007"]

Your fridge is under recall and if you smell ammonia or see any yellow substance around the vent area your cooling unit needs to be replaced.

[reed1950]

Im taking my Coach in next week. What is a reasonable amount I should pay for the cooling unit replacement? I read about the Amish unit. How much more is it?
Thanks in advance

[mikedes]

I just had the cooling unit on mine replaced and the cost was $1100 - Same type of problem that you are seeing and after taking off the insulation the yellow stain (leak) could be seen
Mike

[RobertShelly]

Originally Posted by reed1950

Im taking my Coach in next week. What is a reasonable amount I should pay for the cooling unit replacement? I read about the Amish unit. How much more is it?
Thanks in advance

First, if suspect you have a leak, turn the unit OFF and unplug it! Our 1200LR had a major leak at the burner flue and the unit was still on, running, and no errors/beeping.

I can't speak for all Amish units but we bought ours from RV Cooling Unit Warehouse (no, I have no connection to them) and was somewhere around 1K. Of course you could save some money replacing it yourself (as we did) but I think they also offer an at factory install option for around $300.

All I know, I wouldn't give more money to Norcold!

[Mr_D]

Usually the Amish cooling unit costs less than a factory new OEM unit. You can also get rebuilt OEM units but then you're right back to the same as you had except stating with one that might be about to go again.
I went with the Amish unit and it works very well.

[ricere]

I had the cooling unit in my 1200 Norcold replaced in January and it set me back $2200 and change. Just the cooling unit was $1425. The rest was labor and taxes, which was far less than some repair facilities wanted. We didn't have a rebuilt unit. It was a new one with a new warranty.

I have heard about the Amish cooling units. If I ever have to replace the cooling unit again, I plan to go with one if it is practical.

I think Norcold has a real problem since their refrigerators will not last more than 5 years (which is the average life of a cooling unit, I am told) without spending a small fortune replacing the cooling unit. These types of refrigerators lasted much longer than that 20 years ago. What gives? No wonder many RV manufacturers are putting in residential refrigerators in their new coaches. I will understand completely when and if Norcold eventually goes bankrupt. They caused it themselves by selling products that don't last. My $.02.

[Perry White]

For about $1,000 you could have added a couple of batterys and a new Samsung RF197.