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Old 02-20-2014, 05:00 PM   #15
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Is this the edge of the valve??
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:15 PM   #16
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Yes., that's it...it's good size, but buried behind the hoses. It's a grey cone shaped, plastic knurled knob.
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Old 11-18-2017, 03:37 PM   #17
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Oasis water system not working

Hi All (particularly Dutch Star Don for posting the wonderful Oasis system description!). I have just purchased a used 2013 DutchStar 4018 and am very excited! I have however come across a couple of issues that folks touch upon here in the forum, so thank you! My first issue is blowing hot air when on max AC - I have read thought the Evans valve installed wrong posts and will do some full trouble shooting tomorrow.

The issue of the day however is the Oasis system. I am completely new to this system, so I apologize for my ignorance. I fired the system up putting burner and AC/! 2 switches to on. burner fires off and the ac1 and 2 cycles on periodically. I noticed that the pumps were running continuously. More on that later. I removed the distribution unit cover and confirmed that both pumps were running and bot the supply and return lines are hot as well as the radiators located in the walls. So system is circulating hot water and also i tested the domestic hot water - nice and hot! All lights were off on the zone control panel except power, domestic water and heating loop 1 and heating loop 2. It is about 60 degrees inside the coach so I moved the Dometic CCC2 controller to furnace for both zones and cranked the heat up to 80. Here is the problem the fans at the radiators do not come on in any location, dash, bath or back room. I checked out the zone control panel and no thermostat or fan lights are illuminated - my understanding is the call from the thermostat should illuminate the proper zone thermostat LED and then the FAN lLED should light when that kicks on. after reading through the Dutch Star Don's post, I went out to the coach and discovered the bypass switch was on on top of the zone control panel. I switched this off per Don's [post and noticed that the circulating pumps switched off, this may have been a coincidence. Still no LEDs for thermostat zone or FAN LEDS or fan operation for that matter. I have reset the burner and also reset the CCC2 Dometic thermostat. This certainly seems like a thermostat issue, but the HP and cooling functions all work when called for. I am stumped..... any advice is appreciated. The small dealer that sold me the unit is of no help. Thanks and I hope everyone is having a great weekend! Brian
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Old 11-18-2017, 06:12 PM   #18
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Welcome to the forum and irv2, Brian.
Here is a link to help you get around irv2.

Here is a sticky at top of forum with all DS Don's threads on the OASIS System and other members.
Do not start pulling anything apart until you get answers if you even have to.

This link will lead you to all tsb's,brochure, owners guide, recalls and other important stuff. ---- Owners Guide

The EVANS System has nothing to do with your roof top AC's or heating system, its for your dash board heating and cooling. If your having trouble with the EVAN System with coach motor running close off one of the heater hoses, with vise grip pliers, while Evan is on cool and see if the cooling increases if it does you need new valve or needs to be moved or just install the ball valve in one of the heater hoses.

All the links below in my signature have answers for your Newmar.

When you want a question answered start a NEW THREAD top left of the forum and your question will be answered quickly and will not get lost on the tail end of someone else's thread.
Congratulations on your Newmar and welcome to the Newmar family.
Enjoy the forums and safe travels.
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:40 PM   #19
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Make sure you're turning the furnace on in Zone 1 and that the Fan Mode is set to AUTO. They won't work on Hi or Lo.

My dash A/C had a leak in a hose and after 2 years stopped blowing cool. No one could find the leak, so it was recharged, a few months later it was not blowing cool again. I finally found the leak myself. It was where the a/c hose connected to the condenser, below my side radiator. The connections use an "O-Ring". Now working well.
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:37 AM   #20
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Thanks Don! - I have a 2013 and it looks like the Evans valve is installed on wrong line. Am going to try the ball valve fix and see if that repairs, I also need to check the pressure in the AC too as I have not confirmed it even is charged. this coach is in great shape but went through auction, so I am assuming it at least has not been exercised in many months. It is funny =, I traded my 2008 Allegro Bus primarily because no one could get the dash AC working and we travel west a bunch. SoI upgraded to newer coach, and...... The dash AC doesn't work.. :(
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:39 AM   #21
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Also - have confirmed fan setting and furnace is set on all zones. Hoping I can figure out what wire is the thermostat control on the zone controller and just send direct signal and eliminate the wiring and CCC2 controller from the scheme. I appreciate your response! Have a great day!
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:44 AM   #22
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Understand the Evans valve is only associated with the dash C. Sorry, I should not have posted all of my issues in one post.! it looks like Newmar installed a bunch of 2013 Evans valves on the wrong hose thereby putting pressure in the wrong direction on the valve and destroying the valve. A trouble shooting guide discusses how to figure out the proper hose to install on. Seems to me the easiest solution if the valve is on wrong hose is to buy a new valve and then reverse it in the install. It is a closed system so that effectively puts the pressure and flow direction correctly on the new evans valve. I may be oversimplifying, but I always avoid making new cuts in hoses if at all possible. This assumes of course that you have identified that in fact the valve was installed on wrong hose. Thanks for answering, I am excited for the new coach, but the learning curve is always diffucult when you buy used in my experience!
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Old 11-19-2017, 09:28 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bswg5882 View Post
Understand the Evans valve is only associated with the dash C. Sorry, I should not have posted all of my issues in one post.! it looks like Newmar installed a bunch of 2013 Evans valves on the wrong hose thereby putting pressure in the wrong direction on the valve and destroying the valve. A trouble shooting guide discusses how to figure out the proper hose to install on. Seems to me the easiest solution if the valve is on wrong hose is to buy a new valve and then reverse it in the install. It is a closed system so that effectively puts the pressure and flow direction correctly on the new evans valve. I may be oversimplifying, but I always avoid making new cuts in hoses if at all possible. This assumes of course that you have identified that in fact the valve was installed on wrong hose. Thanks for answering, I am excited for the new coach, but the learning curve is always diffucult when you buy used in my experience!
You have the option of doing what ever you like now that you know how problem has been around since 2003, people did buy the valve and of course the same thing happened with valve, as a result I put in the Ball valve and many others followed suite.
The REDBARRON found what was going on 10 years later with his 2013 coach.
Lots of answers around here with the answers by the members of this forum.
Looking at the bottom of this thread must be a few others with same problem and did not know.
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Old 11-19-2017, 04:06 PM   #24
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Dutch Star Don,

You mentioned in your original post that your cabinet space under the kitchen sink was staying very warm all the time even when the heat was off but you did not indicate if that was fixed. I had the same problem and it was heating up the whole coach too much when it was not required. The hoses to/from the kitchen cabinet radiator were hot and stayed hot all the time when the blower was not on and heat was not being called for. (You can reach up from under the sink to feel the hoses).

I contacted the techs at International Thermal Research (ITR) and they indicated the problem was probably caused by a check valve sticking open in the distribution module. It was one of the brass swing check valves located just under top of the cabinet shown in your photo. It was the check valve on the vertical discharge hose of the lower right pump for heating loop 1. The check valve is hard to see on your photo since behind other stuff). They sent me a new check valve which I had Freedom RV replace (Tough to crawl into that tight space!). After the check valve was replaced the problem disappeared.

I also wanted to point out that the status lights on the stainless steel control board panel in one of your photos above the Oasis burner box are very hard to read since the panel is tucked way up inside the bay. Please be aware that this box easily be simply pulled off the wall brackets for better viewing and then can be easily snapped back into place again when you are done. Also note that this control board panel contains fuses for the Oasis system.

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Old 11-20-2017, 07:26 AM   #25
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I personally love the simple ball valve fix. Unfortunately my wife goes in the RV alone many times and will not like getting out, popping the hood and opening or closing the valve to switch from heat to AC and vice verso. Of course that does not mean I can't wire in some other electronic valve in place of the Evans valve. Then have a switch in dash for AC/heat setting. I feel a cool project coming on!
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:12 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bswg5882 View Post
I personally love the simple ball valve fix. Unfortunately my wife goes in the RV alone many times and will not like getting out, popping the hood and opening or closing the valve to switch from heat to AC and vice verso. Of course that does not mean I can't wire in some other electronic valve in place of the Evans valve. Then have a switch in dash for AC/heat setting. I feel a cool project coming on!
I've never found it necessary to do an on/off/on/off etc. It's usually either hot enough outside for air or cold enough for dash heat.
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Old 11-20-2017, 11:23 AM   #27
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Keith.....I was feeling the heat in the floor and cabinet. It was our first time out in the coach and it was warm during the day and I felt the coach was getting hotter than it should inside.

What I later discovered, is that if you have the coach set on heater even though the thermostat is turned down, the Oasis will circulate water to the radiators in preparation of heating. I don't turn my coach to the furnace position, unless I'm actually running the furnace. That solved my hot floor and cabinet issues.
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Old 11-20-2017, 01:40 PM   #28
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Does the heat from the Oasis when it is not required because the unit is switched to winter loop. Last year I found my unit would not light on diesel or AC, and the only way I could get the unit to operate was to turn on the winter loop. the following morning when I got up the floors and coach were warm even though the heat was not on. Oasis said that when on the winter loop the unit circulates hot water continuously to the radiators. They said my issue was that the unit normally lights when there is water flow and that when on the winter loop water flow is not needed to ignite. They sent me a new switch to attach to the water line that would sense water flow and allow the unit to ignite.

Now that I think about it I assume the winter loop may be only used in really cold climates, does anyone know for sure
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