 |
|
oil change mis-information?
01-23-2012, 05:39 PM
|
#1
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tucson
Posts: 99
|
I wandered by the Spartan booth at Quartzite and came away with some maintenance info. Decided to look at it and caught 1 thing that does not agree with my Cummins manual or any of the posts I have seen here.
The engine oil change intervals for ISL was listed as 20,000 miles EXCEPT for 2010 engines...where they specified 9000 miles. Anybody else ever run into this recommendation?
The other thing I noticed was a recommendation on " parked " MH's..to start engine every 30 days..run it in place til engine temp is up AND move MH forward 25 feet and then back 25 feet to get oil circulated on axle seals.
Most folks recommend driving the motorhome.....not running in a no load situation. And for some..driving every 30 days is not easy to schedule etc...
Are they just being anal?
__________________
Jay, Lee & Lucy(Jack Russell Terrorist)
2010 Dutch Star 4010
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
01-23-2012, 05:58 PM
|
#2
|
|
Community Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, Arizona
Posts: 5,153
|
That does sound like some weird recommendation. I thought conventional wisdom was that starting an engine which had been idle for a weeks was tough on it due to the lack of lubrication and that it was best to just wait until the rig could be exercised at highway speeds.
Batteries are a different matter though.
It'll be interesting to see what our experts say on this.
Rick
__________________
Rick, Nancy, Peanut & Lola our Westie Dogs & Bailey the Sheltie.
2007 Itasca Ellipse 40FD
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-23-2012, 06:02 PM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 1,422
|
Just remember. Spartan builds the chassis, not the engine. Starting and idling in the winter on low idle will cause high aluminum count. Pistons slapping.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-23-2012, 06:13 PM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 4,278
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry White
Just remember. Spartan builds the chassis, not the engine. Starting and idling in the winter on low idle will cause high aluminum count. Pistons slapping.
|
I called Cummins over this point and they said if you couldn't drive the rig for 30 miles or so it was best not to start it at all. So I don't start it till we're going someplace. I've done that for many years now.
__________________
2002 Newmar Dutch Star 4090 ISC 350/1050 with Banks Kit, now 435/1200
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA f47302s
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life Member
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-23-2012, 06:24 PM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Everett WA.
Posts: 149
|
Having owned and run heavy trucks for many years, I'll say this:
The recommendations can be divided into two parts:
1. The reason to run the engine is to create heat and remove moisture from the block...as well as keep oil covering all internal components. You need to achieve operating temps for at least 30 minutes to accomplish this. If you can't reach 180+ at high idle then you will need to drive it. It creates more harm than good to idle for short periods of time or to idle at low RPM. Driving is best.
2. The reason to "roll" the chassis is again to keep all internals (axles, differentials, wheel seals etc) covered in fresh oil. When sitting the moisture in the cases will attack the metals creating pitting and corrosion.
In my personal experience, the only real issues that seem to pop up are the wheel seals. I have let rigs set for months with zero attention and had no issues. The wheel seals do tent to dry out and weep however.
The other issue to keep in mind is acid build up in the oils. If you change your fluids prior to storage, instead of in the spring you eliminate damage from any acid build up from the year before.
Personally, I will "high" idle the main engine one month up to temp for 30 minutes. The next month I drive it for about 30 miles. All good
__________________
Wore out, Fed up and done! IT's PLAY TIME
1999 Monaco Windsor 40PB
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-23-2012, 06:33 PM
|
#6
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 92
|
To repeat Perry White -- Cummins builds the engine (not Spartan) - do what they say which is "no need to run engine during storage" - just drive it when you are heading out on a trip. The move forward 25' and back is valid to lubricate the seals, but this is a very minor problem and conflicts with the "don't run a cold engine a short time". Catch 21 I guess? My view: Park it; forget about it; drive it away when headed out on the next real trip.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-23-2012, 07:35 PM
|
#7
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 67
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerdmoore
Having owned and run heavy trucks for many years, I'll say this:
The recommendations can be divided into two parts:
1. The reason to run the engine is to create heat and remove moisture from the block...as well as keep oil covering all internal components. You need to achieve operating temps for at least 30 minutes to accomplish this. If you can't reach 180+ at high idle then you will need to drive it. It creates more harm than good to idle for short periods of time or to idle at low RPM. Driving is best.
2. The reason to "roll" the chassis is again to keep all internals (axles, differentials, wheel seals etc) covered in fresh oil. When sitting the moisture in the cases will attack the metals creating pitting and corrosion.
In my personal experience, the only real issues that seem to pop up are the wheel seals. I have let rigs set for months with zero attention and had no issues. The wheel seals do tent to dry out and weep however.
The other issue to keep in mind is acid build up in the oils. If you change your fluids prior to storage, instead of in the spring you eliminate damage from any acid build up from the year before.
Personally, I will "high" idle the main engine one month up to temp for 30 minutes. The next month I drive it for about 30 miles. All good 
|
By high idle you do mean under 1000RPM any more rpm and you could damage the engine per Cummings run for four 4or 5 minutes then take off when you get to a stop run the engine for 3 or 4 mminutes to cdool the engine to the same temp. JMO
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-23-2012, 07:47 PM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Everett WA.
Posts: 149
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonBoy
By high idle you do mean under 1000RPM any more rpm and you could damage the engine per Cummings run for four 4or 5 minutes then take off when you get to a stop run the engine for 3 or 4 mminutes to cdool the engine to the same temp. JMO
|
The "high" idle I refer to is 1000 RPM as preset by Cummings. And as I stated...All information is from MY personal experiences with heavy duty diesel engines over 25 years. You may agree or not...just saying.
__________________
Wore out, Fed up and done! IT's PLAY TIME
1999 Monaco Windsor 40PB
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-24-2012, 06:14 AM
|
#9
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Lafayette, In
Posts: 216
|
Asking a question from ignorance here. If you have your coach parked for the winter, would it be reasonable to jack the tires off the ground to avoid flat spots and then turn the wheels manually occasionally to roll the oil around on the wheel seals? Of course, you would have to have a source of compressed air to release the park brakes.
Or is all that just too much bother?
__________________
To the engineer, the world is a toy box full of sub-optimized
and feature-poor toys.
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-24-2012, 06:40 AM
|
#10
|
|
Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milledgeville Ga.
Posts: 1,161
|
Ken, would be too much trouble getting my tires up off the ground, also don't know if a free wheel spin would do as much good as a loaded spin.
I'm with the crank and drive when you need it crowd.
__________________
Jerry & Patsy, Taz & Jake
2000 Winnebago Journey
2006 Ford Explorer 4X4
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-24-2012, 07:50 AM
|
#11
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 92
|
I believe storing without loading the suspension is not recommended; e.g. wheels off the ground. Also, it is not just wheel bearings / seals that are involved. Tranmission, engine, etc. have seals that can dry out as well. I suggest we keep the "seals" problem in perspective - seals do not as a rule fail suddenly on the road. On very rare occasions when a problem develops, seals usually weep very small amounts of fluid which can be messy, but at least doesn't stop a trip or leave you stranded
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-24-2012, 10:15 AM
|
#12
|
|
Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, Florida
Posts: 6,933
|
Back to the OP's question, was their an * next to these statements. The * might define where they got the information. If there is no reference to the origin of the information then Spartan is just trying to get more business into their shop. During these hard times they are trying to get as much business as they can and any way they can.
__________________
Gary
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910,
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-24-2012, 04:27 PM
|
#13
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 693
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed
I wandered by the Spartan booth at Quartzite and came away with some maintenance info. Decided to look at it and caught 1 thing that does not agree with my Cummins manual or any of the posts I have seen here.
The engine oil change intervals for ISL was listed as 20,000 miles EXCEPT for 2010 engines...where they specified 9000 miles. Anybody else ever run into this recommendation?
The other thing I noticed was a recommendation on " parked " MH's..to start engine every 30 days..run it in place til engine temp is up AND move MH forward 25 feet and then back 25 feet to get oil circulated on axle seals.
Most folks recommend driving the motorhome.....not running in a no load situation. And for some..driving every 30 days is not easy to schedule etc...
Are they just being anal?
|
Was it "Spartan" or a Spartan facility that you talked to? I find it odd that spartan makes change intervals for CUMMINS engines. It sounds like a Spartan facility drumming up work.
__________________
John, Pam, Nicholas, Little Man and Aria
NKK 16073L
2007 Essex 4502 2004 Avalanche
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-24-2012, 04:44 PM
|
#14
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NY & FL
Posts: 833
|
Many of the bare chassis sit at manufacturer's storage lots for months before being brought onto the assembly line. Then they may sit a dealer's lot for months or years before being sold. The batteries probably get charged once in awhile, but I doubt that the drivetrain gets excercised.
Just sayin'
__________________
2008 Itasca Meridian 37H
2011 & 2012 Len & Pat's "One lap of America"
14K miles so far - Woo Woo!
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|

»
Recent Discussions

»
Upcoming Rallies
No events scheduled in the next 365 days.
|
»
iRV2 on facebook
|