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Old 08-20-2018, 04:19 PM   #1
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Oil Spots On Toad....

I recently returned from a 1000 mile trip into Idaho. The temps going were over 100 degrees and about 80-90 coming home. I noticed that there were oil spots on the front of the toad, when I got to the park. I cleaned them off, and on the return trim there were some spots, but not as much. Initially, without getting under the coach, I thought that I might have a bad seal on the drive shaft/differential as I've seen this before on my trucks.

Finally got under the coach, today, and I don't see any signs of oil leaks around the drive shaft or differential. What I did see is some residual oil on the side and bottom of the oil pan. I initially thought that maybe I hadn't gotten the oil plug sealed completely when I changed the oil in the Spring.

Then I took another look around the oil pan and I saw a drain tube sticking down along the side of the oil pan and it was oily around that area.

Could this be an overflow for the oil pan/engine. I checked my dip stick and I'm right on the mark for oil level.

I had taken two or three trips, earlier in the year (cooler) and never noticed any oil spots.

Could it be that driving to Idaho, and the extreme hot weather, could have caused it to overflow. I was pulling pretty hard up hills and often had to drop the speed down to around 30 MPH to keep from "over temping" the coolant.

I'm going to change the oil, tomorrow, but just wondered if others had any thoughts about this issue. Thanks... Rick
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:26 PM   #2
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Search for "slobber tube". You will find lots of info on what it is, and how to fix.

Some folks put a plastic bottle with some holes in it to catch the vent oil.
Others pay $250 for an official kit some of which return the caught oil back to the drainpan.

I am deciding which direction to go with mine. I was a little surprised how much mess it was making. Hopefully it's still in the category of "normal".
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:29 PM   #3
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Hi,
What you have found is affectionately known as the "slobber tube". When crankcase pressure mounts oil will be blown out the tube. Consider taking an empty gallon plastic jug and put it on the end of the tube. You may need to raise the end a bit to connect the jug to something in the engine compartment. If you do raise the end, make sure the tube continues to drain down without any "U" shaped path that would result in the tube filling with oil. I put some steel wool in the jug to help give the oil a place to rest and evaporate over time.

Also consider checking the dipstick top to bottom. And the connection of the dip stick tube where is enters the engine block. I think there is a field notice on this. Sometimes the dip stick must be pulled away from the engine to eliminate the possibility of burning through and making a hole.
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:30 PM   #4
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I'd think your engine would have a PCV system and valve that would route the blow by gases back into the engine. I wonder if the hose has fallen down or broken?

If you didn't have any oil spots before, I think something has changed.
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:40 PM   #5
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PCV valve on an 02 Cummins diesel?
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Old 08-20-2018, 05:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryKD View Post
PCV valve on an 02 Cummins diesel?
I was being lazy. I've checked now, a '02 Cummins 8.3 doesn't have a PCV system, just the slobber tube. I thought that since the OP hadn't had the issue before, perhaps a closed crankcase ventilation system had come apart and just started to drip oil. Diesels don't use PCV valves, later diesels have crankcase depression regulator valves (CDR) that do much the same as a PCV valve.

I've not used a gallon jug, but a peanut butter or mayonnaise plastic jar. I cut an opening in the lid the diameter of the slobber tube, slipped the lid on the tube, then fastened a hose clamp on the hose to hold the lid in place. A beer coaster from a local bar is in the bottom of the jar screwed on the lid. It has 6 3/8" holes drilled around the top of the jar to allow vapors out and the coaster absorbs any oil vapor in the bottom of the jar. Bronze or copper wool also works, I wouldn't use steel wool because it will rust.
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Old 08-20-2018, 05:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJOL View Post
I recently returned from a 1000 mile trip into Idaho. The temps going were over 100 degrees and about 80-90 coming home. I noticed that there were oil spots on the front of the toad, when I got to the park. I cleaned them off, and on the return trim there were some spots, but not as much. Initially, without getting under the coach, I thought that I might have a bad seal on the drive shaft/differential as I've seen this before on my trucks.

Finally got under the coach, today, and I don't see any signs of oil leaks around the drive shaft or differential. What I did see is some residual oil on the side and bottom of the oil pan. I initially thought that maybe I hadn't gotten the oil plug sealed completely when I changed the oil in the Spring.

Then I took another look around the oil pan and I saw a drain tube sticking down along the side of the oil pan and it was oily around that area.

Could this be an overflow for the oil pan/engine. I checked my dip stick and I'm right on the mark for oil level.

I had taken two or three trips, earlier in the year (cooler) and never noticed any oil spots.

Could it be that driving to Idaho, and the extreme hot weather, could have caused it to overflow. I was pulling pretty hard up hills and often had to drop the speed down to around 30 MPH to keep from "over temping" the coolant.

I'm going to change the oil, tomorrow, but just wondered if others had any thoughts about this issue. Thanks... Rick
I think it is the breather tube, AKA the "slobber tube", which ventilates the crankcase. They are known for doing this and for creating dirt and cooling problems on rear radiator-equipped coaches. You may be able solve the problem by securely hanging a coffee can with the tube extended into it. This will contain the drops of oil and the can can be manually emptied periodically.
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Old 08-20-2018, 05:21 PM   #8
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My guess is that you recently had an oil change and the crankcase was overfilled by a quart or so. Since Cummins does not supply the extended dipstick, the chassis builder is responsible to install it. It may or may not be totally accurate.
Contact Cummins with the engine S/N for the exact crankcase capacity with filter.

Next oil change add only that exact amount and take note of the level on the dipstick. You very well might find it is below the add mark on the dipstick.

Then, I Suggest running and checking the oil level every 800-1000 Miles. You may find the level will stabilize a little below full. That is your True Full Mark. No more oil residue from the crankcase vent tube.
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:42 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the replies. I remember there was a bottle like that on my Dodge Cummins trucks. I'm going to do the oil change tomorrow and will pay a lot of attention to the amount I put back in. I know I "over filled" it last time using the wrong fill data. I drained some if that out. I think it happened to show spots, this time, as I pushed the coach pretty hard on this last trip in hot weather.
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:08 AM   #10
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A simple water bottle and a short piece of copper tubing to join the bottle to the hose was the easiest thing I thought of. With a hack saw, crossed hatched the top of the bottle so it would tighten down on the copper tubing. Peppered the top with hole's, copper tubing extends into the bottle 3/4 of the bottle towards the bottom.......been on there for 8-9 year's and take off once a year and clean it out. Works very well.......
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:26 AM   #11
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….lots of good info here--the 400ISL on my 2003 DP with 175k miles is throwing a bit more oil now[out "slobber tube"]....no spots on toad but do see a drip or two on barn floor....totally agree with dip-stick oil level comments--my manual calls for 28 qrts but I routinely use 26 qrts and don't top off [1-2 qrts] until/unless level drops to bottom hash marks on stick--24 qrts…..don't know if this "issue" gets worse with engine miles or age....perhaps crack-case pressure increases a bit with age/use...
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:29 AM   #12
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Thanks for the info... I'm going to add this bottle, today, when I change my oil.
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:34 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by RJOL View Post
Thanks for the info... I'm going to add this bottle, today, when I change my oil.
.....Don't work to hard..............If I remember right it was 3/4" rigid copper that fit the hose/bottle snug.
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:37 PM   #14
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Changed the oil, today, and added a little plastic bottle on the "slobber" tube. I called Spartan and they gave me all the details about fluids and filters. They said my coach holds 20 qts of oil with filter change. I put 20 in and after running it for awhile, I checked the dip stick and the level indicates down 2-3 qts. It is still on the okay area but I'm wondering if I should just leave it that way, or add a couple more qts. Any thoughts?
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