Opinion of frig in slide out--absorption vs residential

[rondi]

We're getting close to ordering a 2020 BS 3226. One of the options is a replacement for the Norcold 10 cu ft to a Whirlpool® 11 cu ft. refrigerator with dedicated 1200W Pure Sine Inverter & 2 Extra Batteries.

We won't be bookdocking very often and I realize the necessity of keeping the batteries charged.

Until recently--having an absorption frig in a slide had problems because of the lower exhaust vent--not even on the roof. Yea they installed fans to help---but--

So my question is--how well does the residential frig holdup and work in the slide out? And in particular the Whirlpool brand? Our current 2014 rig has over 56k miles and the Norcold, not installed in the slide works fine--so the rig gets used quite a bit, and on some pretty rough roads--like I5 in mid CA.

tia,
Ron

[willipaul]

the residential fridge does not require to be vented.....so that issue doesn't exist....

however, having had coaches with the residential fridge on both a slide, or not on a slide, i can say that things move less inside the fridge while underway when the fridge is not on a slide...

in a gas coach with a sprung chassis, it matters less...it's more of a difference in a pusher...stuff moves more in a conventional suspension vs. air....

so, i would have no issue saying that a residential fridge on a slide in a gas coach is gonna be just fine....and better than a dual fuel model.....

[Webz]

Our residential Whirlpool has worked as advertised for almost 3 years. It is in the FWS. The only problem was one time we were in below freezing weather and the water line going to the ice maker froze. It is exposed when the slide is out. I insulated it a little better but have not been where it is cold enough to test it again.

[Dan McMartin]

We've got a Fridgidare 10 cuft in our slide. No issues. I'm not sure what you're concerned about. The Whirlpool is lighter. It's got more capacity, it works better, it doesn't start fires, etc. And it's a residential fridge. When's the last time you heard about a residential fridge that stopped working? They run and generally for decades.

Plus you get the inverter and two extra batteries. If you don't boondock, the residential is a no brainer. You'll be on shore power. If you do boondock, you'll appreciate the extra batteries. In any case, you'll likely prefer the residential fridge to the propane fridge.

[Dom]

Originally Posted by Dan McMartin

We've got a Fridgidare 10 cuft in our slide. No issues. I'm not sure what you're concerned about. The Whirlpool is lighter. It's got more capacity, it works better, it doesn't start fires, etc. And it's a residential fridge. When's the last time you heard about a residential fridge that stopped working? They run and generally for decades.

Plus you get the inverter and two extra batteries. If you don't boondock, the residential is a no brainer. You'll be on shore power. If you do boondock, you'll appreciate the extra batteries. In any case, you'll likely prefer the residential fridge to the propane fridge.

My trade is residential fridges. They break down way more than propane fridges. Most 10 cu ft and made in china

[jcussen]

From high school physics remember heat can only be transferred. Always wondered where the heat from the inside of a residential fridge goes without any vents to the outside like a propane/electric fridge?

[Qwert66]

If future resale is a consideration, we would highly recommend the residential.

[gpounder]

Go with the res fridge, you will never regret it. Extra batteries and inverter is a big plus too. In truth it draws about the same power as the norcold on electricity. You just loose the propane option. There are many issues with the absorption models. No real issues with residential units. I never hear any one complaining about the residential units.

Yes ventilation is different with a residential unit but should not be ignored. The heat has to go somewhere and in a house it is insignificant but it can be noticed in a your little ~300 sq ft apartment.

Ideally the top, bottom, back and sides vent to the outside and the front is sealed off. Then there is no impact to the interior. Most refrigerators also require an inch or two space around them as the side panels radiate heat.

I would ask some very specific questions as to how the residential fridge is installed. Find out the model number and look up the install specifications.

[Sbrownstein]

Originally Posted by jcussen

From high school physics remember heat can only be transferred. Always wondered where the heat from the inside of a residential fridge goes without any vents to the outside like a propane/electric fridge?

That is correct. Interesting issue, lets look closer. A residential fridge sends the heat removed from the box into the living accomodation, just like it does in a sticks and bricks home. A really big unit consumes maybe 100 watts and vents it into the room.

HOWEVER...an adsorption fridge not only removes the same amount of heat from the box but also has to vent the much more significant amount of heat from the propane flame or electric heater that causes it to cool. This is more than 3 times the amount of heat than that removed from the box so if we remove the same 100 watts from the box, the electric heater adds 350 watts and the propane flame probably adds 500 or 600, which gets you pretty close to 1000 watts. The flame also adds carbon monoxide and water vapor as well, which has to be vented to the exterior for safety reasons anyway.

Compressed gas refrigeration doesn't need a vent....

[Finance]

I’m not clear based on the title of your post compared to the text whether you have any interest in comparing the two options or you’re just looking for reassurance the residential option works well.

All I can tell you is we have the Norcold in the slide and it works just fine. Wouldn’t have it any other way, but we do dry camp often. If you’re going to have shore power get the residential.

[Sbrownstein]

The only issue that I have seen on the forums a few times is that a fridge on a slide is more susceptible to having the water line freeze in low temperatures since it is exposed and in a non-heated area.

[jcussen]

Of course a electric only fridge does not need a vent. It will only release about 500 btu's of heat an hour or 12000 btu's a day into 300 sq ft coach.

I have read a lot of posts on this forum on problems with keeping coach cool in high outside temps, especially with the more popular dark coach colors.
While 500 btu's is not much, quite sure that guy with the coach that will not go below 80.f inside, with all his ac's going, would agree.
But on the plus side, had a coach with 28 cubic fridge and in the winter with no heat sources on in the coach, the heat the fridge dissipated, would keep the interior at least 5 degrees warmer than outside ambient temp.
https://indianapublicmedia.org/amome...-refrigerator/
https://www.hunker.com/12610048/the-...a-refrigerator

[Dutch Star Don]

The heat form the refer is a NON issue. People make it sound like it works different in a MH than a house.

Get the residential refer, extra batteries and inverter. I know you're not looking at resale now, but down the road, most will want a residential refer since the industry is moving to all electric.

[Sbrownstein]

OK, sure. Why did you ask? Originally Posted by jcussen View Post
From high school physics remember heat can only be transferred. Always wondered where the heat from the inside of a residential fridge goes without any vents to the outside like a propane/electric fridge?