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Old 03-21-2019, 03:33 PM   #1
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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Outside Soundbar Volume Mod

The Bose outside sound bar volume issue has been discussed a few times. If you want to Bluetooth something like Pandora to it, it works fine. If you're like me and want it to play from the dash radio as it was intended, the volume is weak and requires fading to the back bedroom speakers and cranking up the inside volume. I've had some say the volume is fine. Mine was too, if I cranked up the volume inside. I really don't want the inside radio blasting when playing the outside radio.

I want to play my Sirius channels (I'm paying for them) from the dash radio without changing a bunch of things. Well.....Captain Gizmo found an inexpensive fix and has posted it in the middle of another post. I did his mod today and I'm very pleased with the volume increase. It's a pretty simple mod and shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

I ordered the amplifier that Captain Gizmo had found, it's available on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LWV77Y...p_mob_ap_share

You'll also need two short RCA cables, the shorter the better. Again, here are some Amazon cables. Now there are much better quality cables, but Newmar used a cheap RCA to 3.5 mm cable, from the radio to the sound bar, so buying expensive ones is probably a waste, unless you were to replace the Newmar cable, which would be quite a project.

https://www.amazon.com/GHWL-Plated-F...ateway&sr=8-32

The signal booster (amp) requires 12 volt power. There is a blue wire on the radio that runs to the Newmar installed amp. It's a 12 volt trigger to tell the amp to turn on. Simply tap into this wire for the 12 volts (+) needed for the signal booster. This way, the signal booster will shut off when the radio is off. Tap into the radio ground for the ground wire on the signal booster.

Once you're wired for power, you'll find two RCA plugs on the back of the radio (red and white). They run to the outside sound bar (output). Remove them from the radio and attach them to the two RCA cables coming out of the signal booster. Take the two RCA cables you bought and plug them back into the radio where you removed the first two. Plug the other end of the new RCA cables into the left and right input on the signal booster.

I used some two sided tape and attached the signal booster to the top of the radio. On the signal booster, there are two adjustable pots on the upper left and right. They say "L" and "R". Take a slotted screwdriver and turn both clockwise. This turns the unit all the way up.

You're done! Turn the inside radio on to moderate volume and turn the outside sound bar on. You'll find the volume is increased quite a bit.

Lastly, on the Bose remote, there is a button, dead center, under the "BASE" button that has a picture of what looks like a caption cloud they put over a character when speaking. This is the Dialogue Mode button. It removes the base. Play with this button and see how you like the sound. I liked it better when this button was turned on. You can tell it's on by looking at the left side of the sound bar. The green LED turns orange.

I can now crank my outside sound bar up and aggravate the neighbors.

Again, thanks to "Captain Gizmo" for doing the work and allowing me to post his mod.
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Old 03-21-2019, 04:56 PM   #2
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Glad it worked for you, Don!

A couple notes for others to follow:

1. You'll want a 1 foot RCA cable. I had to buy mine from SCOSCHE since Amazon didn't have any that were cheap. And you'll want ones that are flexible, with smaller terminal ends. As you say, high-end cables are necessary, PLUS they tend to be too stiff; as were the problem when I bought the Monoprice version.

Right now, here's a set on Amazon that look to meet my criteria:
https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-S...gateway&sr=8-1

2. The BUZZing that will happen is from the poor wiring amplifying the dirty power from the Inverter and, especially, the DC Charger. When those two are off, the BOSE will almost noise-free. You'll notice there's MORE noise when the selector is on RADIO than on TV; as well as going away completely when OFF.

This defect can be proofed by simply unplugging the AUX cable that's coming into the back of the Soundbar's input. It's a form of "Ground Loop" hum and would take filters to block it out. I'm experimenting this week, but don't have much confidence since there's only so much you can do.

3. Regarding the DIALOGUE compensation button on the remote. This is basically a pre-set equalizer that will boost the mid-range where the voice spectrum is, along with cutting the bass levels a bit. This results in a more "clear" presence for voices, but really won't be the optimum for general music listening. BOSE is notorious for tweaking there BASS levels like crazy anyways, so I have no intention of using their "Bass" button either.

4. You mention using the AMPlifier trigger for power; which should be the BLUE/WHITE wire. While this is fine, I have another option which is the BLUE wire. This is the Power ANTenna wire and should be unused, making it all the better to grab for power!

If anyone has more questions, feel free to give me a PM.

Capt. Gizmo
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainGizmo View Post
Glad it worked for you, Don!

A couple notes for others to follow:

1. You'll want a 1 foot RCA cable. I had to buy mine from SCOSCHE since Amazon didn't have any that were cheap. And you'll want ones that are flexible, with smaller terminal ends. As you say, high-end cables are necessary, PLUS they tend to be too stiff; as were the problem when I bought the Monoprice version.

Right now, here's a set on Amazon that look to meet my criteria:
https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-S...gateway&sr=8-1

2. The BUZZing that will happen is from the poor wiring amplifying the dirty power from the Inverter and, especially, the DC Charger. When those two are off, the BOSE will almost noise-free. You'll notice there's MORE noise when the selector is on RADIO than on TV; as well as going away completely when OFF.

This defect can be proofed by simply unplugging the AUX cable that's coming into the back of the Soundbar's input. It's a form of "Ground Loop" hum and would take filters to block it out. I'm experimenting this week, but don't have much confidence since there's only so much you can do.

3. Regarding the DIALOGUE compensation button on the remote. This is basically a pre-set equalizer that will boost the mid-range where the voice spectrum is, along with cutting the bass levels a bit. This results in a more "clear" presence for voices, but really won't be the optimum for general music listening. BOSE is notorious for tweaking there BASS levels like crazy anyways, so I have no intention of using their "Bass" button either.

4. You mention using the AMPlifier trigger for power; which should be the BLUE/WHITE wire. While this is fine, I have another option which is the BLUE wire. This is the Power ANTenna wire and should be unused, making it all the better to grab for power!

If anyone has more questions, feel free to give me a PM.

Capt. Gizmo


Regarding the buzz noise. We’ve (dealer, myself, others) have been chasing this issue since the coach was new. I removed the output from the TV via mini jack that goes to the selector switch then to the Bose. Replaced with a optical cable from TV directly to the Bose. Buzz is gone on from the Bose on radio.
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:31 PM   #4
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Good info...... I added an optical cable a while back. I'll disconnect the mini jack and see how it sounds. Right now, with my hearing, it's not bad, especially if cranked up a little and the Dialogue button turned on.

If the mini jack is disconnected from the TV.....do you have to reconnect to use the radio.....are the two connected through the switch, or are they separate?
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winepress View Post
Regarding the buzz noise. We’ve (dealer, myself, others) have been chasing this issue since the coach was new. I removed the output from the TV via mini jack that goes to the selector switch then to the Bose. Replaced with a optical cable from TV directly to the Bose. Buzz is gone on from the Bose on radio.
Hmmm, wow...that would be incredible to fix...not to mention not making sense! You'd think that the ground would be broken through that selector switch. I'll double-check, again, because I know I've disconnected the TV during my tests.

Thanks for the info!!
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:50 PM   #6
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Okay.....I tried the sound bar with the 3.5 mini disconnected and the dash radio stops playing through the sound bar. I also discovered, if you turn the TV on, while stereo is selected at the switch, the sound bar doesn't play.

All in all, I'm still VERY happy with the improvement. I HEAR very little static with the Dialogue button turned on, which removes the base, but then you can turn the base back on via the Base switch.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winepress View Post
Regarding the buzz noise. We’ve (dealer, myself, others) have been chasing this issue since the coach was new. I removed the output from the TV via mini jack that goes to the selector switch then to the Bose. Replaced with a optical cable from TV directly to the Bose. Buzz is gone on from the Bose on radio.
Since you have done so much research maybe you can help me understand how the Bose is wired. My stopped working, TV & radio but will work via BT.

Selector switch is taking the RCA from radio and TV and then a single input into sound Bar? I was suspecting the switch was bad and tried to take RCA directly from TV th sound bar, but still got nothing.

Any suggestions are appreciated
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:12 PM   #8
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Outside Soundbar Volume Mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Okay.....I tried the sound bar with the 3.5 mini disconnected and the dash radio stops playing through the sound bar. I also discovered, if you turn the TV on, while stereo is selected at the switch, the sound bar doesn't play.

All in all, I'm still VERY happy with the improvement. I HEAR very little static with the Dialogue button turned on, which removes the base, but then you can turn the base back on via the Base switch.


Don,

You can’t disconnect that 3.5mm plug as that is THE MAIN INPUT for the soundbar! It’s coming from the selector switch, which is what controls the source.

What Winepress is telling us, is that he REMOVED the section of AUX cable that runs from the TV to the selector switch completely. He then ran an OPTICAL cable DIRECTLY from the TV to the soundbar.

The problem with this solution is it bypasses the selector switch and then forces you to change the inputs using the Source button on the remote.

While the soundbar doesn’t select sources automatically, the Bluetooth seems to override the input and will “release” the bluetooth connection once it’s stopped, which will allow the soundbar to REVERT back to the previous source. This can cause confusion is the user has selected a source OTHER than AUX!!!
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:22 PM   #9
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Outside Soundbar Volume Mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by NWIP View Post
Since you have done so much research maybe you can help me understand how the Bose is wired. My stopped working, TV & radio but will work via BT.



Selector switch is taking the RCA from radio and TV and then a single input into sound Bar? I was suspecting the switch was bad and tried to take RCA directly from TV th sound bar, but still got nothing.



Any suggestions are appreciated

You’re correct on the wiring. The selector brings two sources into it via cables, then sends the output to the Soundbar’s AUX 3.5mm input.

Please see my post above...it sounds like the Source isn’t sent to AUX. So when the Bluetooth connection is released, the soundbar is switching back to the WRONG source! It has to be AUX!!
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:29 PM   #10
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Thanks will try to program remote. I would like to cure this and get working and then do your mod for “better” sound
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainGizmo View Post
Hmmm, wow...that would be incredible to fix...not to mention not making sense! You'd think that the ground would be broken through that selector switch. I'll double-check, again, because I know I've disconnected the TV during my tests.



Thanks for the info!!


Remove the switch bezel, then the switch. Once you have access to the cables, remove the auxiliary cables (the ones coming from the TV). Buzz should be gone.
The buzz is not a 60hz hum, it’s a higher frequency. Makes sense that it is coming from the inverter.
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Old 03-22-2019, 07:13 AM   #12
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The 3.5 inch plug really doesn’t have much to do with this problem. Newmar runs the RCA through the coach to the back of the under kitchen sink area. Then they have some type of PCB that converts the RCA to 3.5 inch plug that goes to the sound bar. Not sure if putting the line amp there would be better or easier. The only thing is the cutoff vs always on capability.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:04 AM   #13
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Installing this today and I want to ask a question. No problem with power and ground. As recommended, I used the blue power antenna wire for power.


I have the Xite radio, and the only red and white RCA cables that are used are marked REAR. There is another set of RCA cables used includes a yellow along with the red and white, and this bundle is marked AUX IN. So, would the amp need to be connected to the two marked REAR?


Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:11 AM   #14
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Ken, use those marked "rear". I've been unable to figure out what that other set of cables (with video) is used for. On mine, that cable is routed toward the steering wheel and disappears some where into the driver's side wall. I believe they're for those coaches with OmniView. I disconnected mine and coiled them up when I added the new radio.

Maybe someone else knows what they do. They had no effect on my new radio use.
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