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Old 07-10-2016, 05:56 AM   #141
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Checked my slide motors yesterday, all tight.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:38 PM   #142
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Checked and Tightened

cannot say thanks enough to all who offered comments and solutions. I just returned from my 2012 Ventana...and tightened all of the bolts.

I'm amazed how ANY RV mfg. could continue to install such a crappy system.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:06 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBelvedere View Post
cannot say thanks enough to all who offered comments and solutions. I just returned from my 2012 Ventana...and tightened all of the bolts.

I'm amazed how ANY RV mfg. could continue to install such a crappy system.
I have to respectively disagree with you on that. I don't see it as a crappy system at all. It seems like a very easy thing to check as part of your regular maintenance routine. If you look at other manufacturer forums there are lots of other slide mechanisms out there with a lot of other problems. You want crappy? How about the Schwintec system some are using? Some of those have had lots of problems. The system Newmar uses seems to be reasonably trouble free from what I hear. Yes, there are some that have failed, and I think through this thread we have uncovered a root cause. HWH has a hydraulic system, but that gets rather complex and service could be messy.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:12 PM   #144
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Electric Slide

Shoot, .. and I always thought that the "electric slide" was a dance you did at wedding receptions after you got drunk.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:21 PM   #145
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Thanks very much for the heads up on the slide motor bolts. DF slide all were loose about a turn. Reinstalled with blue Loctite on bottom two bolts. Top two bolts are too difficult for me to get out so I just tightened them. Will have a pro look at them. Had this new motor installed a little less than two years ago at Newmar. Bedroom slides were all tight.

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Old 07-11-2016, 04:23 AM   #146
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Harley - When I purchased my motorhome, I spent two days at the dealership going over most every system...and how to maintain each. At no time was the slide motor bolt issue ever mentioned. While I have I have no clue what the Schwintech is, I can say that when bolts sheer off and support brackets crack...that's crappy.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:45 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBelvedere View Post
Harley - When I purchased my motorhome, I spent two days at the dealership going over most every system...and how to maintain each. At no time was the slide motor bolt issue ever mentioned. While I have I have no clue what the Schwintech is, I can say that when bolts sheer off and support brackets crack...that's crappy.
I agree with JT in the fact that the system as a whole is not crappy. What is crappy is the fact that a simple fix in production would eliminate the problem. To add insult to injury there are several things that can be done in production not just one. Locktite, Threadloc bolts or Safety Wire are three. To not do any of the simple fixes and pass it off as a maintenance item, now that is "Crappy" with a capitol "C".

I just did the ones on the unit under my bed, in a 4369 yesterday. I do not want to do that every year.

BTW as someone else has mentioned the bolts on that unit are not a 9/16" head like the FWS or the kitchen slide, they are 1/2". Easy to get to with a 1/2" socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet. I wish I had my old air ratchet, now that would make this project go by in half the time. The hard part is there is no clearance so you have to go one click at a time.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:51 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by VP Chianese View Post
BTW as someone else has mentioned the bolts on that unit are not a 9/16" head like the FWS or the kitchen slide, they are 1/2". Easy to get to with a 1/2" socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet. I wish I had my old air ratchet, now that would make this project go by in half the time. The hard part is there is no clearance so you have to go one click at a time.
Vinnie,
1/2" swivel socket and 12" extension works fine. The real hard part is crawling into the bed frame to even touch the motor. I single handed this project.
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:12 AM   #149
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Vinnie,
1/2" swivel socket and 12" extension works fine. The real hard part is crawling into the bed frame to even touch the motor. I single handed this project.
Agree, my fat body had a hell of a time. But once in there I worked with what I had so a 3" did the job. I even have a 3" extension with a pivot head but just couldn't bring myself to crawl out and go get it.

I would think at the plant they disconnect the gas shocks and jack the bed platform way up. Then you could maybe even get to it from the side.

But I can tell you this, no one was thinking of it as a "maintenance" item when they designed this.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:26 AM   #150
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One of the unfortunate ones

Thanks to everyone for all the great tips and suggestions regarding the slide out motor mounts. Unfortunately, I have not been on the forum recently and found the posts after I had discovered that 3 of the 4 mounts on our Dining Room slide out were broken.

We don't really recall a particular event that might have indicated that there was an issue. Just happened to be in the battery bay and noticed the problem. Then went searching and by a strange coincidence there was Stealth01 post on the problem.

Have talked with Newmar and gotten no commitment other than to say they will talk with the dealer when we go to get it repaired. We were in Napanne last July to have work done on the coach and one of the items involved was that slide out. Guess we will have to wait to see how this pans out.

Thanks again for all your help and ideas.
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Old 07-15-2016, 04:19 PM   #151
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***UPDATE***UPDATE***UPDATE***UPDATE***
When I first posted this issue we had just departed on a six week trip. Today I had a few minutes and decided to check the living room and kitchen slide out motor mount bolts again (yes, I'm a little paranoid). After repairing the broken motor I personally checked the slide out mount bolts. I personally torqued all the bolts down and ensured they were secured. Today, after traveling 2,097 miles and operating the slides 13 times I rechecked the torque on the living room and kitchen slide outs... All of the bolts required additional torque!! Of the eight bolts, five required at least an additional 1/4 turn to reach "tight". Two of the remaining bolts required 1/2 turn and the last bolt required a full turn! Ah, Newmar I'm beginning to get a little concerned... I believe the culprit is the torque generated by the motors when operating the slides. Having bolts that (a.) are not installed to a specific torque at the time of manufacture is a mistake and (b.) installing a steel bolt, without a retention device, into an aluminum casting is mistake two. If there were just a couple of random "loose bolts" that would be one thing, but based on the response to this posting there is a design/installation issue. Depending on your usage, I would not relax after checking the bolts, I believe this is going to be an on going issue with the electric slide outs!!
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:30 PM   #152
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It's time to explain how bolted joints actually work. When it is necessary to bolt two things together, the fasteners need to generate enough clamping force to hold the parts together tightly enough to prevent them from sliding when force is applied.

If the two parts ever slide, a tiny bit of material is worn off the mating surfaces. The next time, it takes less force to make them slide and more material is removed and so on. Eventually the joint gets very loose and things start to get destroyed. This is independent of bolts unscrewing. No amount of Loctite, safety wires, bolt tabs, etc can prevent the sliding if the joint is under designed in the first place.

In this case, the steel bolt into tapped aluminum holes precludes the possibility of applying enough torque, and thereby clamping force to prevent sliding, or in this case, chucking. This thing needs more bolts or thru bolts to get things clamped together well enough to prevent problems. It's hard to tell for sure, but I think I can see witness marks on the aluminum bosses indicating some sliding had been going on.

I have no idea how this can be fixed with the present design. Regular re-torquing is your only hope at this point. In my humble opinion, this thing is poorly designed to start with.
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:05 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmckinley View Post
It's time to explain how bolted joints actually work. When it is necessary to bolt two things together, the fasteners need to generate enough clamping force to hold the parts together tightly enough to prevent them from sliding when force is applied.

If the two parts ever slide, a tiny bit of material is worn off the mating surfaces. The next time, it takes less force to make them slide and more material is removed and so on. Eventually the joint gets very loose and things start to get destroyed. This is independent of bolts unscrewing. No amount of Loctite, safety wires, bolt tabs, etc can prevent the sliding if the joint is under designed in the first place.

In this case, the steel bolt into tapped aluminum holes precludes the possibility of applying enough torque, and thereby clamping force to prevent sliding, or in this case, chucking. This thing needs more bolts or thru bolts to get things clamped together well enough to prevent problems. It's hard to tell for sure, but I think I can see witness marks on the aluminum bosses indicating some sliding had been going on.

I have no idea how this can be fixed with the present design. Regular re-torquing is your only hope at this point. In my humble opinion, this thing is poorly designed to start with.
I think it would work much better if the motors were secured so that the mounting bolts were perpendicular to the rotation rather than in the same axis as the rotation. Since that is not the case, (just thinking out loud, not sure if this would be possible or not) perhaps drilling the aluminum housing out and pressing a steel bushing in that is slightly longer than the housing depth, say 0.030" or so. Then install through bolts and torque them down. The actual torque is applied to the steel bushings allowing for a tighter installation. Like I say, I'm not looking at the system now, just thinking about it. Not sure if there is enough "meat" on the motors to do that or not.
jt
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:12 PM   #154
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In the 13 years we owned our '02 DSDP I never checked the bolts and never had a problem. Guess we got a good rig!
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