Penguin 13.5 to 15k Upgrade

[TechWriter]

Anyone upgrade their Penguin 13.5k ACs to 15s?

[Mr_D]

We have the 13.5 Penguin heat pumps, so far we've never felt the need for more cooling but we have covers over the slides, the optional roof insulation package and dual pane windows.

[Route 66]

It's only a 9% increase in capacity.

I'm not sure the cost would be justified.

[hawgguy]

I did it on my last MH and felt it to be an easy and worthwhile upgrade. I live in west tx and, when it comes to A/C, every little bit counts.

[Renden]

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawgguy I did it on my last MH and felt it to be an easy and worthwhile upgrade. I live in west tx and, when it comes to A/C, every little bit counts.

So you upgraded the MH, not the AC's......makes more sense to me

[hawgguy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renden So you upgraded the MH, not the AC's......makes more sense to me

I did! Actually my 2011 Ventana with 2 x 13.5K A/C's is cooler than my old 1997 Safari with 2 x 15K A/C's. Probably due to superior insulation. It's still not cool enough for me during this blistering summer. 5 years from now I could see myself looking for some sort of upgrade, perhaps to 2 x 15K units. Wish I could add a third......

[Mr_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawgguy I did! Actually my 2011 Ventana with 2 x 13.5K A/C's is cooler than my old 1997 Safari with 2 x 15K A/C's. Probably due to superior insulation. It's still not cool enough for me during this blistering summer. 5 years from now I could see myself looking for some sort of upgrade, perhaps to 2 x 15K units. Wish I could add a third......

The "problem" may not even be a problem. The air cons are only designed to drop the air temp by 20° at the outlet. So if it's 105° outside the most you should see inside at the air outlet would be 85° and that's not the actual air temp down lower.

[hawgguy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D The "problem" may not even be a problem. The air cons are only designed to drop the air temp by 20° at the outlet. So if it's 105° outside the most you should see inside at the air outlet would be 85° and that's not the actual air temp down lower.

Maybe it's time to tour the pacific northwest.

[CorporateMonkey]

Just and FYI the 13.5k & 15k BTU units from Dometic use the same compressor. The only difference is a higher capacity fan motor.

[Mahlon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by CorporateMonkey Just and FYI the 13.5k & 15k BTU units from Dometic use the same compressor. The only difference is a higher capacity fan motor.

The 15K units have a different cover as well.

[TechWriter]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D We have the 13.5 Penguin heat pumps, so far we've never felt the need for more cooling but we have covers over the slides, the optional roof insulation package and dual pane windows.

Yes, but I feel the need.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Route 66 It's only a 9% increase in capacity. I'm not sure the cost would be justified.

My ACs are 10 years old. It's time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawgguy I did it on my last MH and felt it to be an easy and worthwhile upgrade. I live in west tx and, when it comes to A/C, every little bit counts.

Right on, partner.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CorporateMonkey Just and FYI the 13.5k & 15k BTU units from Dometic use the same compressor. The only difference is a higher capacity fan motor.

The best info so far. And I hear the fan is louder. New 13.5Ks are looking better and better.

Thank you all!

[CorporateMonkey]

Quick thought, when was the last time you cleaned your existing units?

I make a habit of throughly cleaning them at least once a year. If done right, I can clean all three of ours in less than a couple hours.

The performance improvement is drastic.

[TechWriter]

Quote:

Originally Posted by CorporateMonkey Quick thought, when was the last time you cleaned your existing units? I make a habit of throughly cleaning them at least once a year. If done right, I can clean all three of ours in less than a couple hours. The performance improvement is drastic.

I thought I did last season, but give me some cleaning tips. Rather that than two new Penguins.

[CorporateMonkey]

I don't have my photos handy, but I can give you a basic walk through.

DISCLAIMER: You are taking full responsibility for any damage. If you are not comfortable doing this, ask for professional help.


You will need a few supplies to do this right.

1) Screw driver (or similar) to move the A/C covers
2) A soft towel, or something similar to lay the covers down on.
3) A large roll of "Blue" painters tape. (don't cheap out, get 3m brand)
4) Fin comb (Here is a link to amazon Amazon.com: Mountain 8300 AC Condenser Fin Comb: Automotive Most hardware stores will have something similar.) If you do not have access to one, you can use a thin flat head screw driver, or knife to accomplish the same thing. It just takes 10x as long.

5) A couple of cans of A/C Coil Cleaner. (Amazon link Amazon.com: Thermwell Prods. Co. ACF19 Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner: Home & Garden You can also get something similar at your hardware store. I find I need 2 big cans for 3 A/C's)
5) Garden hose
6) water proof gloves (latex works great, but anything will do)
7) OPTIONAL: 1in square foam weather striping tape. (Amazon.com: Frost King R734H Sponge Rubber Foam Tape 7/16-Inch, Black: Home Improvement You want the same thickness used on your A/C. The link provided is too thin, but it shows you what to look for. Any hardware store will have this)


Steps (I am doing this by memory, so use your best judgement when working on yours):

1) Use screw driver to remove the 4(?) screws holding the A/C cover on. The covers are very fragile so be extra careful removing them. Lay them upside down on the towel.
2) If your A/C cover has foam tape laid on the inside (should be in something of a number 4 pattern), check for any damage, or loose adhesive. This foam is VERY important as is directs the incoming air through the condenser. If it is missing, or damaged the air can flow over/around the condenser hampering performance.

I am including this youtube video. This video is WRONG. The guy only does a very minor job of cleaning. I am only including this video because there is a clear shot of what the foam should look like as he removes the cover.

RV air conditioning maintenance - YouTube

If the foam is damaged, replace it.

3) Next step is to remove the inner cover. On early models (as shown in the youtube video above) it is a metal shroud, later models switched to a high density black plastic. On the plastic models there is a series of latches that have to be released. Use a flat head screwdriver to help. I found on ours that Newmar had rushed the job and used a bunch of self tapping screws instead of properly latching the cover.

4) Now that the entire system is exposed, you should see a common motor driving two squirrel cage fans, two radiators, a wiring box, and two openings down into the rv. You need to use the blue tape to seal off the openings into the RV. You will not be perfect at this, but use long strips of tape to seal as best as you can. Also seal off the electrical box, and any motor vents. All this accomplishes it to keep the bulk of the water out of your interior.

5) Now using the garden hose, gently spray both radiators from the inside out. The water coming off should be very black with grim. Go slow so you do not bend any fins.

6) Now is the time to use the fin comb. If you have any bent or crushed fins you need to straighten them.
Here is a youtube video that details the next steps.

Condenser Fin Comb Training - YouTube

For this next step wear gloves as the chemicals are a mild acid. Also when applying this SIT DOWN on the roof. The spray is very slippery.

7) Time to apply the coil cleaner. Liberally spray the cleaner into both radiators, getting both sides. Here is a youtube video that shows what the spray foam should look like

Cleaning Air Conditioner Coils - YouTube

8) Let the spray sit for 10 minutes. I usually use this time to prep the next A/C for cleaning.

9) Rinse time. Using a very gentle spray rinse out both radiators. Make sure to not overflow the interior radiators drain tray. Spray in small bursts if you have too. Their should be a lot of grim coming out of the A/C units. Make sure in between the rinsing of the A/C's to throughly allow clean water to run off the side of your coach. You do not want the coil cleaner on your paint anymore than you have to.

10) When the coils are clean, let them air dry for about 10-15 minutes. Use this time to move on to the next A/C.

11) Remove the blue tape. Some water will have gotten inside. This is ok for a few moments.

12) Re-assemble the A/C.

13) Now turn on the A/C fan only to high. Let it run for at least 30 minutes. After 30 minutes then turn on the heat pump or A/C mode. Let that run for at least an hour to dry out any water that may have gotten into the duct work.

Your A/C's are now clean, and you should see an improvement in both performance, and a lower energy draw. I have seen a decrease of up to 4 amps in electrical draw.

I hope this helps.