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Old 08-12-2019, 02:01 PM   #1
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Question on installing new Koni shocks

Just received my new pair of front EVO Koni shocks for my 2015 DS.
There are two large rubber pads at the end of each shock but no metal discs (washers). Will I be using all the metal discs from the original Sachs just like they are on the Sachs?
And also I notice the black rubber (plastic) covering on the top half of the shock extends about 1/4" above the end of the shock. Does this remain left just like that when it is mounted and the rubber pads are in place?

Have installed many many shocks in my 65 years driving vehicles but never saw shocks set up exactly like this. And no instructions included.

Appreciate any help or suggestions.
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Old 08-12-2019, 04:04 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonmaster2 View Post
Just received my new pair of front EVO Koni shocks for my 2015 DS.
There are two large rubber pads at the end of each shock but no metal discs (washers). Will I be using all the metal discs from the original Sachs just like they are on the Sachs?
And also I notice the black rubber (plastic) covering on the top half of the shock extends about 1/4" above the end of the shock. Does this remain left just like that when it is mounted and the rubber pads are in place?

Have installed many many shocks in my 65 years driving vehicles but never saw shocks set up exactly like this. And no instructions included.

Appreciate any help or suggestions.

Here is a thread on installing shocks

Koni EVO shock replacement --- use oem washer?

Dutchstar Don and now Red Baron73 are the experts on shock installations

Good luck, I was lazy and had them installed.
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Old 08-12-2019, 08:26 PM   #3
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Red Baron --- Back in your February posts where you had to cut the stem off one Koni shock because the nut wouldn't turn, what caused the initial problem? Was the threads on the nut or stem jammed? Were you installing the shock when this happened, or when you tried the nut before installing it?

The reason I asked, when I received my two shocks this afternoon I unpacked them and tried the nut on one end of one shock. The nut would just barely catch finger tightened so I removed it and it looked like the threads on the end of the shock were slightly smashed. Since it comes with the nut/dust cap wrapped with the two rubber shims I'm wondering if the box got dropped on it's end jamming the nut against the threads. Didn't try forcing the nut with a wrench in case it might start crooked and strip the threads.

I noticed in your pictures, and also when I unwrapped what little instructions I finally found with mine, the diagram shows how the rubber pads are installed and list everything 1, 2, 3, & 4. But what do the numbers mean?
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Old 08-12-2019, 09:03 PM   #4
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The 2 rubber washers are designed to be used without any other washer. When you remove the OEM shock, you will get 4 washers. A bottom, 2 middles, and a top. I reused the bottom and the top, leaving the middle ones out.


When placing the rubber bushings in place, pay attention to the proper orientation, and make sure the center lines up with the hole on the chassis for both the top and bottom.


Once you test fit everything, start to tighten. This is a nylon lock washer, and getting it to come off again may be a problem. Once you start to tighten it, be ready to leave it on forever, or cut it off.


As far as the numbers, I think this is just their way of documenting things without words, calling out the various parts that matter.
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Old 08-12-2019, 09:07 PM   #5
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My problem came in because I was not sure about the middle 2 washers, and thought I was missing a part. I had already installed ithe shock properly, but got worried that I didn't have a washer between the rubber bushings and the frame mount.



The poor documentation didn't state if it was necessary or not, and calling Shockwarehouse, another Koni dealer, and others that had installed I was getting different stories of whether it was required or not.


So i decided to remove the shock, and try to reuse the old washers. The nut backed off 1/2 way, then seized. I couldn't tighten or loosen. Worst case scenario.


After struggling for a long time, I called a buddy of mine that drives a tow truck. Had him come over, as his arms are as big as my legs, and figured he could get the darn thing off.


After learning a few new word combinations, I suggested that we just cut it off.
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Old 08-12-2019, 09:51 PM   #6
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I will admit that part of Red Barron's issues were my fault. I've done at least a hundred shock installs over the years and just put the Koni's on without even thinking about it. When Red Barron asked for help on the orientation of the bushings, I went from memory, which was wrong, and gave him bad info......sorry.
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Old 08-12-2019, 10:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I will admit that part of Red Barron's issues were my fault. I've done at least a hundred shock installs over the years and just put the Koni's on without even thinking about it. When Red Barron asked for help on the orientation of the bushings, I went from memory, which was wrong, and gave him bad info......sorry.
Don't feel bad, I had several other sources tell me the same info, including shockwarehouse.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:41 AM   #8
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Golly, that nylon lock nut doesn't sound very good. On my previous coach I had originally installed the adjustable shocks on the front, and when one started leaking oil Koni sent me the newer FSD shocks as a replacement.
If one of these EVOs start leaking and have to be replaced years down the line heaven knows what will be endured doing so.
Wonder if it would be worth purchasing regular nuts and using a star lock washer or double lock nut? Anything permenant on these coaches scares me cause nothing seems to last very long.
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:23 AM   #9
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I think the nut was damaged by the damaged threads during shipping. It is not normal for a nylon lock to seize up so bad.


Oh and we did try to cut the nut off first. There was so little room, it was impossible to do, even using my dremel cutter.
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Old 08-13-2019, 04:15 PM   #10
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I can certainly relate to the "so little room" as it's hard to get even a breakover handle and socket to that upper nut.
Either the threads on the first end of the first EVO that I tried to thread the nut on by hand here after unpacking it is damaged or the nut is. By hand without using any wrench I can only get the nut to catch, but won't go on any further. Haven't tried the other end of the shock nor the other shock yet and don't want to force it part way in case it's trying to cross-thread. Will look closer this evening.

That must have been a real nightmare trying to cut off the nut first, then having to cut the whole stem.
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Old 08-13-2019, 04:34 PM   #11
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That must have been a real nightmare trying to cut off the nut first, then having to cut the whole stem.

Yes it was. More so for my buddy, who taught me word combinations I never had dreamed of before. Could have made a sailor blush
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:57 PM   #12
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Of the 4 threaded ends of the two shocks I can screw the nut on by hand clear to the nylon lock on 3 of the shock ends but this 4th one will just barely catch the nut and it will go no further. It looks like the threads at the very end of the post have been slightly damaged. I haven't tried forcing it further on with a wrench in case it might try to go cross-threaded. If the nut would go on at least a turn then I would feel better about using a wrench to hopefully straighten the threads but since it probably isn't turning a 1/4 turn if that much I'm reluctant to try forcing it.

I don't have a thread chaser that size and thinking about using a very small file to dress the threads evenly. But if that doesn't work will Ultra RV claim I did the damage and not stand behind this shock?

Wouldn't it be nice if at least one project would go easier, faster, and quicker than one would expect?
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:20 PM   #13
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Learn from my issue...return the shock for a new one.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-13-2019, 10:23 PM   #14
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Use a small file to clean up the threads and then use a regular nut to get the threads straightened out with a lot of lube. You'll know when it's aligned by just looking and then thread that non locking nut down, lubing as you go and then install the shocks and use the lock nuts. Be careful when you shove that upper stud through the opening that you aren't wacking the threads on the edge of the shock mount hole.
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