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Old 04-18-2015, 05:20 PM   #1
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Questions about awning???

While looking things over today, I decided to open the awnings. The coach is in my garage with slides open. Door slide worked fine, I even adjusted it to make it retract completely. The main awning would not move! The controller seems OK, I hear it clicking when I press the remote. Tried with wind sensor on, and off... no difference. Looked everywhere for a hidden fuse, but could not find one. Looks like another trip to the dealer for service ...
Serviced all the house batteries, couple were low. The chassis batteries were sealed. When should the Battery cut off switch in that compartment be used? Doe it do the same thing as the Battery disconnect switch upstairs?
Does everyone leave the coach connected to 50 amp all the time? Or should it only be connected for shorter periods... I try to check the battery fluids monthly.
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:05 PM   #2
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I leave it pluged into a 30amp 24-7 while not in use. it keeps the batteries charged up and ready to go.
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:12 PM   #3
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Do you think your awning is not working because your chassis batteries are dead?
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Old 04-19-2015, 03:11 AM   #4
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You need engine or Gen running or coach plugged in when ever deploying the slides.
Weak batteries will get you in trouble every time.
You may need a jump start now to get engine running.
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:14 AM   #5
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Thanks guys, maybe I was not clear about the problem. I cannot get the side awning to open. The door awning works fine. The slides, all three, are open. I did have the coach plugged in to 50 amp when trying the awnings, and when I operate the slides.
I got side tracked and decided to service the house batteries, a couple were low, but now all at proper level. Then I went to do the chassis batteries, and found them as sealed units. Noticed the battery manual cutoff switch, and wanted to know if that does the same as the switch inside the coach.
But back to the original problem, the main side awning. The controller with the wind sensor settings does have power, and I can hear it click when I press the remote. I have also tried a reset, with the button, and completely de-powering. Unless I can find a fuse, or circuit breaker... and they are every where, I think its back to the dealer.
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:31 AM   #6
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That switch for your chassis batteries is only for the chassis batteries, the house batteries is controlled by the one in coach only.
The Awning I think we will find info in QT's # 3 Awning problems.
Moisture in awning motor housing has been a problem.
Plus there is information on how to get into COM_NET for all awning information.
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:06 AM   #7
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I could not find a fuse for the Awning motor, looked in all the info here, but it still remains a mystery! I do see there is a fuse inside the wind sensor box, but that is good as it has power, the relay does click, and I can change the wind settings.
I have looked in the half bath, power cord compartment, left forward electrical compartment, and even under the hood. Lots of fuses, but not for the awning. There is a power block in the power cord compartment, but no fuse. I intend to write to Newmar next.
Having sait all that... here is a pic of the forward upper Awning mount on my coach. There is a crack in the fiberglass, I looked at a pic I took the day we made the purchase, and it is just visible. Sure wish I had noticed this before, but assuming the awnings will work when you need them... oh well. I just hope this will not be another month long + dealer visit.
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhlairbus View Post
Thanks guys, maybe I was not clear about the problem. I cannot get the side awning to open. The door awning works fine. The slides, all three, are open. I did have the coach plugged in to 50 amp when trying the awnings, and when I operate the slides.
I got side tracked and decided to service the house batteries, a couple were low, but now all at proper level. Then I went to do the chassis batteries, and found them as sealed units. Noticed the battery manual cutoff switch, and wanted to know if that does the same as the switch inside the coach.
But back to the original problem, the main side awning. The controller with the wind sensor settings does have power, and I can hear it click when I press the remote. I have also tried a reset, with the button, and completely de-powering. Unless I can find a fuse, or circuit breaker... and they are every where, I think its back to the dealer.
Still not clear on chassis batteries. You went to service them but found they were sealed. Are they fully charged? Most awning issues are attributed to weak chassis batteries or poor connections.
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:24 AM   #9
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I am sure they are good, coach is always on the 50 amp service. Maybe I should go and try to start the motor... just in case!
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:27 AM   #10
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Here are the pics of the forward awning mount,
I should have rotated the last pic 90 to the right, Sorry
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:34 AM   #11
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I am sure they are good, coach is always on the 50 amp service. Maybe I should go and try to start the motor... just in case!
You dont sound to sure

The coach not starting will be good news for your awning but that would mean your bird failed.. :(
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:50 AM   #12
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Hi dhlairbus,
In a Newmar coach the awning is powered by the coach batteries. If the coach is connected to shore power, the charging system is suspect or the batteries are worn out. However, to the actual problem of the awning not opening consider:
1. Take a voltage reading at the awning motor.
2. If there is 12 VDC or more the awning motor suspect.
3. If low or no VDC check the fuses in the awning circuit.
4. My awning fuse is located in the 12 VDC fuse buss for all the 12 VDC coach circuits.
5. If the fuse is good, determine if there is 12 VDC to the fuse.

Depending on if/where the volts is being lost will determine the next steps.


I like the paint on your coach. The red make the color scheme pop.
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:18 PM   #13
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Engine cranks right up.
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:20 PM   #14
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Yes, voltage readings would be the logical next step... but with this unit still on warranty, I am thinking they need to make things right.
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