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Old 09-01-2019, 03:20 PM   #1
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Radiator Flush and Exhaust questions...

Amigos,

I am facing a rather daunting task on my coach (at least for a home gamer) and I was hoping to gain some insight from the experience and knowledge of the Hive-Mind of all of you here on IRV2.

The situation stated…briefly:

There is a bolt missing (broken off) on my exhaust manifold causing excess heat in the coach engine bay (and leak noise). This is causing numerous issues and I have been told that it must be fixed. Getting TO the bolt is a major issue, but fortunately it is closest to the engine bay opening and on the top. See the pic with my finger pointing at it with the blue arrow.

In order to even begin removing the broken bolt, I have to remove (at the very least) the air cleaner, intake piping, and both of the upper radiator hoses and of course the exhaust manifold (single port at that point). AND, Possibly more...So I have decided to do a radiator flush first, then rinse with distilled water, then pull the hoses and replace all the silicone (Blue pipe) and spring clamps and finally do the manifold work, then refill with coolant.

Problem 1.
(And this is the most irritating one) Cummings says they will not give out torque specs. Huh ?Liability ? Not just one person either, but I tried several. So. Any help on the torque for the exhaust manifold bolts (3/8”-16) and the spring clamps on the radiator pipes would be greatly appreciated.

Problem 2. Refilling the coolant. Surely all that coolant doesn’t get filled through the surge tank…or does it? (Green arrow on pic 2). If so, how do you get the air out of the highest point? (Blue arrow on pic 2). I know Cummings has a pressurized machine to do it. I found in the Cummings literature (On Cummings Quickserve) that some engines are quipped with a bung or a valve at that point to purge the air…So I am thinking of TIG welding a valve at the top of that pipe (tip of the blue arrow) (while its on the bench of course!) for that purpose.

Thoughts?

Things I am missing?

Things you think I should do (like the thermostat for instance!)?

Different techniques ?



Thanks in advance for all your help!


Sincerely,
Bruce
ISM 450HP Cummings

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Old 09-01-2019, 03:54 PM   #2
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You will be far better off paying Cummins to replace the bolt. If you attempt to drill out the broken stud and miss dead center it could cost you thousands in head repair/replacement.
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Old 09-01-2019, 05:15 PM   #3
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Thanks Donn. I agree. No way I am going to drill it. However...My MIG and I have a plan...
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:09 PM   #4
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The coolant is installed by the chassis manufacturer. If you have a Freightliner there is a procedure in the owners manual.
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Old 09-09-2019, 08:34 PM   #5
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The procedure for re-installing the manifold along with the torque specifications can be found in quickserve on the Cummins website. You'll need your engine serial number.

Welding a bolt on to the broken stud sounds like a great plan.

I used a magnetic induction heater to remove all 12 of my exhaust bolts without breaking them.
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Old 09-09-2019, 08:35 PM   #6
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The procedure for re-installing the manifold along with the torque specifications can be found in quickserve on the Cummins website. You'll need your engine serial number.

Welding a bolt on to the broken stud sounds like a great plan.

I used a magnetic induction heater to remove all 12 of my exhaust bolts without breaking them.
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