Community Forums

Theluckys · 08-26-2012, 02:22 PM

I was wondering about this and I did search the question and there's been a lot of discussion(s) about driving with the LP vs not but that's not what I'm wondering.

When driving down here in Florida we run the MH with the generator running with the AC's on. I've kept the refrigerator running on the generator but it take a long time to cool off.

I've got two questions for those who know:

1. Does the refrigerator cool faster on the AC from the generator or from the LP Gas - or are they the same?

2. When driving with the generator does it make sense to use the LP since the generator is already running?

GaryKD · 08-26-2012, 02:45 PM

Hi Theluckys,
I leave the refer on auto and it will change power sources depending on what is available. The default is electric (120 VAC). I run the refer on propane when traveling. Assuming everything is adjusted correctly, the refer should cool the same on propane or 120 VAC.

If your refer does not automatically change power sources, consider when running the generator have it as the power source. If not running the generator, use propane as the power source.

tyka · 08-26-2012, 02:49 PM

My 2 cents worth: RV refrigerators run much more efficiently on propane and reach their coolest temperature much faster than on 120 VAC. I rarely use it on electricity even when I'm in a full service site. They are very expensive to replace and can be damaged quickly if the RV park's power is not up to code and subject to high/low peaks.

On another note ---- your chassis AC is not working? Do you know why? I fixed mine for a few bucks with the help of 007 not that long ago. You might have the same problem I had.

Sky_Boss · 08-26-2012, 02:51 PM

According to the folks that make the Amish Cooling units, they say that LP will cool the refer down a bit faster unless the outside temps are real high. If your heating rods and/or LP burner are running properly, there shouldn't be much if any difference in maintaining a temp once you get there. At that point, you are fighting other factors (outside temp, heat from the sun...) on equal ground.

As to running the refer on the road. If you have the genset on for air conditioning, it takes almost no extra fuel to cover running the refer on AC. Save your LP in that case. Again, that assumes both LP and electric systems for the refer are working properly.

woodburner · 08-26-2012, 02:51 PM

With our current coach I run on electric when the generator is running on the road; but have no issues with running on propane when the genny is not needed.
I used to travel that way with the 5th wheel we had and never had an issue.
Just make sure to turn it off when refueling.

"007" · 08-26-2012, 04:00 PM

Never had a problem using LP when driving but if you leave the fridge on AUTO it will take care of itself whether your using shore power, Gen and if you forget to have 110 on will switch to LP.
All will be fine in fridge if you allow ample time for it to cool down before trip.
My fridge use to be on all summer if we were traveling or parked at home now that we can no longer can travel its shut down between trips.

Joemaz · 08-26-2012, 04:13 PM

You guys are full of information needed.. we are getting prepared to leave on our first trip in our new Jayco Greyhawk Tuesday. I have 20 Amp power to the RV. Thought this AM I would start to cool down the Ref? It's been 6 hrs and I don't feel any cool inside at all??? It's set to AUTO, gas on and the indicators look normal. Should I hear any noises if it's running? Seems awlful quiet??? Help?? Thanks!!

deanjeep · 08-26-2012, 04:15 PM

Your RV fridge will never work as efficiently as your residential fridge at home. The recommended way to use it is to cool it down empty and then when you load it make sure the food is already cold. In other words try to stock it originally with food from your household fridge and not straight from the store. These things take forever to cool down if you stock them full if room temp food.

Joemaz · 08-26-2012, 04:35 PM

Should I hear the REF running on AC?? If the indicator lights weren't on, I wouldn't think it was getting any power...

JC2 · 08-26-2012, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyka

My 2 cents worth: RV refrigerators run much more efficiently on propane and reach their coolest temperature much faster than on 120 VAC. I rarely use it on electricity even when I'm in a full service site. They are very expensive to replace and can be damaged quickly if the RV park's power is not up to code and subject to high/low peaks.

A good quality surge protector will prevent potential problems from low/high issues. You do have one correct?

On another note ---- your chassis AC is not working? Do you know why? I fixed mine for a few bucks with the help of 007 not that long ago. You might have the same problem I had.

Please advise our readers what that fix was so they might benefit from it.

bcbrowne · 08-26-2012, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joemaz

Should I hear the REF running on AC?? If the indicator lights weren't on, I wouldn't think it was getting any power...

Nope. they dont have moving parts, the gasses are moved with an electric heating element or from a propane flame as selected, a few have 12v vent fans but most have been added later than a factory install.

96 Wideglide · 08-26-2012, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joemaz

Should I hear the REF running on AC?? If the indicator lights weren't on, I wouldn't think it was getting any power...

I only hear mine running on propane.

Dunner · 08-26-2012, 09:57 PM

I can hear mine light on propane, but can't hear it once it's running.

"007" · 08-26-2012, 10:20 PM

You press the mode button on display and it will tell you what is operating the fridge AC or LP.
The fridge needs a good 12v to operate the control boards for either the LP or AC mode and your battery cut off switch needs to be on.
You should have one indicator light on to tell you its running.