Remote switch to open driver window?

[TJ]

Has anyone done this themselves? Newmar wants a serious piece of change to add such a switch in the driver side fuse bay. It doesn't seem all that complicated, but since I'm not familiar with this particular job, there may be more to it than I know.

Thoughts?

TJ

[Winepress]

I think that would be pretty easy considering the location. Where do you want the switch located?

[redbaron73]

This is very simple to do, and a very direct path.

The back side of the switch has an incoming power (1), and an outgoing power (2 wires, 1 for each direction). You want to tap into the wire for outgoing power for window down, and run that single wire down to the electrical bay. I have run multiple wires already from there, so this part is very easy.

That single wire should remain capped off until needed, then all you have to do is touch it to the battery powered stud in that bay and the window will go down.

If you want to pm me I can walk you thru the testing on that switch fairly quickly.

The hardest part of all of this will be getting that switch exposed so you can see the wires. Best bet is to use a dash kit to pry it out safely.

[Tigerfan1]

What is the best way to get the wire to the electrical bay.

[Dutch Star Don]

I think I saw 8 wires on the back of that switch. I started the project the other day when I was doing my radio install. Newmar doesn't give you much excess wire to pull the switch out very far.

I found one wire that had power when the window was operated, but I'm sure that was the main power source. I wasn't motivated enough to continue and needed a small needle to tap the spade connectors for testing, without pulling them off.

I was going to put a momentary switch on the wire in the electrical bay, but just leaving a capped wire sounds like a good idea....and just stuff it back in the loom. If I get a chance to identify the color of the wire that powers the window, I'll post. Maybe redbaron73 already has the wire identified.

When I ran power from that bay to power my dash equipment, I ran an extra pull string, just in case I wanted to pull another wire....glad I did.

I keep a spare key in the engine bay and will add a key for the bay doors. That way if needed, I can manually unlock the electric bay and a bay with a ladder in it, so my wife can crawl through the window!

[redbaron73]

I have not pulled that panel out yet, it is the last one that I have to document. It is a big PIA to get to. I pulled extra wire so that I am ready to make the final connection. I ran mine all the way to the engine bay, because that will always be accessible, even if bay doors are locked.

[Dav L]

Curious - what's the remote switch for? Use case?
When would you want to remote control the window? To auto close it from inside the S&B if it starts raining?

Hmmm, or is this in case you lock yourself out of the RV?
Maybe the better answer is a remote door lock / unlock so you don't have to climb through the window?

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Curious - what's the remote switch for? Use case?
When would you want to remote control the window? To auto close it from inside the S&B if it starts raining?

Hmmm, or is this in case you lock yourself out of the RV?
Maybe the better answer is a remote door lock / unlock so you don't have to climb through the window?

on my coach, the door unlock is easily reached thru an open window. The door lock could be energized the same way, and may be the route I go. Just have to get to the switches first

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

on my coach, the door unlock is easily reached thru an open window. The door lock could be energized the same way, and may be the route I go. Just have to get to the switches first

Ah ok. Well....the door lock. So the rig has an interior remote door unlock switch now (near the driver's window)....so, what if a "Smart Relay" ie: a WiFi / Bluetooth contact switch was put in parallel with the actuation switch...and then use your smartphone to control? Then, no need to run very difficult wires.

Certainly same could be done with the window too. Opening a window remotely isn't generally a safety issue. Closing one is (trap a little one in the opening...)

[Dutch Star Don]

Here is the issue....some have had problems with the front door jamming and not being able to open with the key or remote, with an additional issue of dead batteries. I hide a key in the engine bay for the front door and will add a key for the electric bay. By adding the wire, you could lower the window by touching power in the electric bay or even bring up your toad to lower the window (jumper) and gain access to inside the coach.

[Dav L]

Is the power window circuit energized without key being on? I haven't noticed on mine. Most all autos are not energized. That makes it a little more difficult to rewire.

[Dutch Star Don]

No, it only works with the key on or accessory. It should work by just putting power to one side of the switch.

[dms]

This was discussed recently in more detail at this link:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/lock...me-429472.html

I installed the hidden switch for less than $20 in about an hour. The ACC switch does not have to be on , since you wire the window motor switch directly to +12v in the basement panel.

Details of wiring and the switch are on the above link.

One caveat is that pre 2019 coaches had a drivers window large enough for anyone to crawl through. 2019 models have a smaller window. A smaller person or child could still gain entrance through the smaller window.

I have talked to at least two coach owners who experienced door jam problems and both had to remove (destroy) the bedroom slide window to gain entry...a costly method to say the least. The remote switch eliminates this expense and hassle.

[Hawkeye]

Just curious, what causes the door to jamb? If it is the intense heat has anyone tried to just put a bag of ice on the door latch to cool it off?

TJ, I think I read that you did have Newmar install the remote switch, care to share the cost on that?

Thanks