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Old 06-24-2015, 02:26 PM   #1
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Removing an HWH jack cyl. question.

After removing the springs do you just remove the 4 retainer screws on the flange and pull the pivot pins from the cyl. and lower it by hand .

I need to tighten the hose fitting or the sensor fitting. oil is leaking from the top of the unit. I can't see the top of the unit because cargo compartments frame rails and the way it's installed.
Any one ever dropped one down? Googled the subject and didn't find exactly what I need to do. Even HWH web site didn't explain the process.
Mike
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:33 PM   #2
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Did you check here for the manual and instructions for your jack model?

HWH Customer Service

Also, here's a link to one of their manuals that has a lot of troubleshooting information:

http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml23934.pdf

This thread discusses HWH jacks, best idea is take to a local shop, less than half the price of shipping/service by HWH.

removing springs on HWH jack

Here's a detailed 'How to' on removing/replacing springs.

Replacing HWH Spring

Alternate suggestions involve taking apart spring clothes pins and using the wooden halves as spreaders in the coils.

This description on another Forum discusses cleaning the gunk out of the seal pockets.

Do it yourself service repair on HWH leveling jacks
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:39 PM   #3
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You only loosen the four bolts so pivot plates can be spread but to drop jack you need to remove hose and jack down alarm wiring at the top of cylinder.
Can be done on front jack more difficult on rear jacks if that's the one with problem.
Here is a post explaining more.
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:12 PM   #4
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@ 007 I cant even see or reach the top of the jack the way its mounted to the frame, it's the right rear one. Going to attempt to remove it after work this evening. There's lots of spring removal tips but nothing describing actual cyl. removal. Used the links listed above and still no answer. Yours sounds like what I have and that's what I figured it would take. "remove the pivot pin retainers and lift it out of the slot. Hope there's enough slack in the hose and sensor line to allow me lowering access so I can fix the leak. Thanks for the help offered by all. I'll repost if I get it off and fixed, Mike
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:33 PM   #5
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A DP for rear jacks would require a pit to work on I do not think you can crawl under coach like a Gas coach.
I found the passenger side rear I could see from the battery slide compartment just need long arms.
Another thing just thought of can you see and reach from the engine opening in bedroom.
You will find wire tie's holding everything together, tied to the hose so they would need to be cut and any slack will be tied also.
The wire and hose need to be disconnected to drop the jack out of its housing.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:56 AM   #6
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Whew! I fixed it! Thank goodness I'm a skinny tall guy with long arms. I wiggled my way under the coach and did what I call "Racooning" I couldn't see the hose fitting on top of the cyl. but I could feel my way around. That was the hard part. Removing the cyl. was the easy part. Looks like the mooron that installed the jack had it reversed 180 deg. When the jack is deployed it pivots towards the outside of the coach. This caused the "T" pipe fitting for the hose to bind up against the mounting bracket and had bent it a little causing the threads to leak, fortunate it didn't break off or crack. I cleaned every thing up and removed the "T" retaped the threads with Teflon thread sealing tape and screwed it in. I worked my way back under the coach and reinstalled the cyl. 180 degrees from the way I found it and every thing clears now. Racooned the hose fitting reinstalled the foot pad and pumped up for leak check. Woo Hoo, no leaks! Removing the springs and reinstalling was a snap. I took my floor jack and held tension on the foot so it wouldn't swivel, pulled down on the rear most spring by hand and on hooked it. I then released the floor jack slowly and let the foot swing down and hang from the other spring. I moved the jack and removed the foot from the spring and had clear access to the cyl. I reversed the process to reinstall the springs. It took no more than 5 min, to remove or reinstall the springs on the foot pad. I can tell you this be prepared to get dirty, I was dirty and greasy from head to toe but I won the battle! I got pictures, I just have to upload them.


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Old 06-26-2015, 08:10 AM   #7
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Mike ; if people weren't willing to get dirty, not much would get done.
Glad you got you problem fixed; and your off to your next project.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:25 AM   #8
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So glad you got the leak stopped. I would like to suggest you replace that fitting in the future.

A damaged fitting could be a weak link in your hydraulic system as it being bent will decrease its pressure rating.

I applaud you on doing this dirty work yourself. One note though, one should never use Teflon tape on hydraulic fittings, or any hose in a hydraulic system.

One reason is possible contamination to your system by the tape getting into the small orifaces of the valves.

The other main reason is the sealing surfaces of fittings is not the threads but the matching of the connection ends, and the tape could possibly interfere with proper tightening of the connection.

Please don't take this as nit picking your work. I just wanted to pass along and share knowledge on this subject for the next person who mite need it.

Again, congrats on your hard work.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:54 AM   #9
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@ dywallace, yeah I know about Teflon and hydraulic systems but..... It looked like it was that way from the factory. I still work in the industrial mechanic field and we have to use tape all the time on our hyd. systems or we have leaks. Pipe dope takes to long to set up. I agree it's not correct but you have to do what you have to do to get the unit back up and running.. I just make sure the tape doesn't overlap the end of the threads and can't be ingested into the system, I'm one week out from a 2 week road trip and I don't have the time to chase down a new fitting and it looks like a bastard fitting any way, nothing like it at work for sure. The hose connection is a standard male /female cone mating/sealing surface "T" with one 1/4npt leg that screws into the top of the cyl.
I hope this thread may help others in the future to save some $ and fix it them selves if their a do it your self kind of person. I Googled and looked at manual's and couldn't find what I needed. I Plan to add a few pictures for ref. in the future.
Best to all, Mike
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:55 AM   #10
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Mike thanks for posting. I tried to change the warning sensor on one of our rear levelers and could not reach up there to locate. So it would seem I will have to drop the leveler. Appreciate the info. Happy RVING.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:16 AM   #11
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@ shaggy dog, If there was enough slack made in the hoses and wiring and HWH would have put a straight fitting coming into the top of the cyl. instead of a "T" you could easily drop the cyl. thre the mounting bkt. and undo the fittings/ replace them and slide it back into place. It would have cut 2 hrs. off my time. Oh well , I'll just deal with it . It's not like I remove them once a week.
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:22 PM   #12
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Good job Mike I know what you went through because I had to change a ABS sensor on rear tire location and everything feeds up over the chassis frame for connection, my body, 82 years, was so twisted I didn't think I would ever straighten out.
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