Removing baggage doors on newmar '99 dutch star

[roadstar99]

We are disappointed with the Newmar manuals, as well, and also found that Spartan schematics and diagrams are not necessarily correct either. I looked for months for a blown fuse to the auxiliary cigarette lighter that's used for GPS and cell phones on the dash. We accidentally blew it while trying to check a 12v tester in the socket and hit the ground side. I checked all of the places the Newmar manual stated had fuses: under the dash, under the hood, over the bed, in the compartment by the battery compartment and I'm sure there were other places we searched. Even found a fuse under the hood marked "cigar lighter", checked the fuse and it was good. Now we knew there was a blown fuse because we blew it. Gave up and just used the cigarette lighter in the ashtray for GPS and cell phones which was inconvenient as it was on the wall on the driver's side. Then I decided to try again. Looked under the dash and followed the wires and found an in-line fuse that had been added and was blown. It was probably added to protect the equipment. Anyway, replaced the fuse and all is well. What fuse are you looking for? Good luck with posting your build number and getting more detailed help. You are welcome about bay door help. Hope yours was easier than ours to replace.

[montiem]

Originally Posted by roadstar99

We are disappointed with the Newmar manuals, as well, and also found that Spartan schematics and diagrams are not necessarily correct either. I looked for months for a blown fuse to the auxiliary cigarette lighter that's used for GPS and cell phones on the dash. We accidentally blew it while trying to check a 12v tester in the socket and hit the ground side. I checked all of the places the Newmar manual stated had fuses: under the dash, under the hood, over the bed, in the compartment by the battery compartment and I'm sure there were other places we searched. Even found a fuse under the hood marked "cigar lighter", checked the fuse and it was good. Now we knew there was a blown fuse because we blew it. Gave up and just used the cigarette lighter in the ashtray for GPS and cell phones which was inconvenient as it was on the wall on the driver's side. Then I decided to try again. Looked under the dash and followed the wires and found an in-line fuse that had been added and was blown. It was probably added to protect the equipment. Anyway, replaced the fuse and all is well. What fuse are you looking for? Good luck with posting your build number and getting more detailed help. You are welcome about bay door help. Hope yours was easier than ours to replace.

I am looking for the fuses for the Trip-trek computer, I finally found them. Both in the front electric bay both good, computer still goes not work. I mailed Newmar got the fuse directory in a couple of hours. I will say the lady that has answered all my inquiries is really great. She has more than likely heard a million complains about Newmar manuals.. It turned out that there is a light beside each of my fuses, when one is blown thee light comes on I think. Also when I really looked close each fuse was labeled and a diagram was inside the cover. I apologize Newmar

[montiem]

Originally Posted by "007"

Montiem if you enter your build number 740056cs into the searcher catalog at the top of this page COM_NET2 Link you will find much information on your coach.
If you go into the Tech Reference section you will also find info on wiring ,plumbing etc,etc.

Thanks, I already went there but there is still not much help. I have learned a lot and found a lot of info. The people that answer the mail is great, sent everything I have asked for, I do wish they had put it in a owners manual.

["007"]

Back in 2004 when I started on this forum there was only the good people on this forum that you could get the answers.
The COM_NET2 Link has only showed up in pass year and even thats an improvement since it started, by the time I retire from this forum maybe the LINK will have all that everyone needs because every month lately something has been added.
Newmar has just started to sponsor this forum so I would say they are getting more involved with members needs.

[montiem]

Originally Posted by "007"

Back in 2004 when I started on this forum there was only the good people on this forum that you could get the answers.
The COM_NET2 Link has only showed up in pass year and even thats an improvement since it started, by the time I retire from this forum maybe the LINK will have all that everyone needs because every month lately something has been added.
Newmar has just started to sponsor this forum so I would say they are getting more involved with members needs.

When I first got my Newmar I will admit I was really disappointed with the support. But I will have to say that Newmar has answered ever question and request on a timely manner. The Com_net2 link is really good. I think it is great you can look at your own coach specs and equipment. I did ask about the owners manual and they assured mr it was being improved.

[Roadyacht1]

Had a tough time with this and I’m sure people still are so am replying.

Raised to about 20-30 degrees above the horizontal. ( takes 2 people). Both the door and hinge on coach are “ C” shaped and fit inside each other. Remove spacer in between doors. And you can see how they fit together. Have a helper move door up and or down from this approximate position and you will see the most open position of the “C’s”. I pried with a screwdriver to help them open the while one held door in position, the other “Poped it off starting at the other end and it really “poped “ off. Not an easy job but we did it! ( and yes we are just a couple of guys that really didn’t know what we were doing!). Good luck. Once you do it once you say “ oh! That’s how you do it”.

[Dav L]

I built three new baggage doors for the MountainAire out of aluminum sheet and aluminum angle stock. I used closed cell foam for the interior, and fiberglass sheet for the interior of the doors.

The trick was how to form the smooth bend at the bottom of the doors. I couldn't find a 48" split roller tool which would be the right way to make the bends. Instead, I fashioned a steel pipe and bolted on a square tube running it's length as a clamp for the end of the sheet metal. I used a 1/2" socket in the end of the round pipe, and used that to turn / make the smooth bend in the aluminum sheet. Applied some muscle and sweat on turning the pipe and on the sheet to make the bend. After that was formed, the door was squared up, cut to perfect final size.

My hinge rails were also bent so Newmar sent me a 14' box with all the aluminum trim I needed. Price was reasonable, shipping was excellent. I found it easier and "safer" (to the bodywork, not my body) to slide the doors out from one end one after the other (after removing the #2 screws on the door retention tabs in the hinge). The key was putting some layers of masking tape on the body work so the doors didn't rub the paint as they slide past the body work. You can also remove some of the hinge to body attachment screws to ease the doors away from the body work if it's really tight clearances.

The factory (and my replacement) doors are just glued together with a couple of screws holding the corners together. I really don't like smacking them to release the "C's" from the rail. But if that goes well, it certainly is faster than my method.

To get the new doors back on, reverse the process and slide them back on the rails. I made some new door retention straps from the same aluminum plate as the top skin. I just cut to size, bent an open "double" at one end (to fit into the C channel) and made sure the final width was the standard size, as this dimension is what sets the gap between the doors.

New replacement doors were around $850 each. It took me a couple of days and about $200 in material. This week, all gets repainted...can't wait for the exterior to be done!!

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by Dav L

I built three new baggage doors for the MountainAire out of aluminum sheet and aluminum angle stock. I used closed cell foam for the interior, and fiberglass sheet for the interior of the doors.

The trick was how to form the smooth bend at the bottom of the doors. I couldn't find a 48" split roller tool which would be the right way to make the bends. Instead, I fashioned a steel pipe and bolted on a square tube running it's length as a clamp for the end of the sheet metal. I used a 1/2" socket in the end of the round pipe, and used that to turn / make the smooth bend in the aluminum sheet. Applied some muscle and sweat on turning the pipe and on the sheet to make the bend. After that was formed, the door was squared up, cut to perfect final size.

My hinge rails were also bent so Newmar sent me a 14' box with all the aluminum trim I needed. Price was reasonable, shipping was excellent. I found it easier and "safer" (to the bodywork, not my body) to slide the doors out from one end one after the other (after removing the #2 screws on the door retention tabs in the hinge). The key was putting some layers of masking tape on the body work so the doors didn't rub the paint as they slide past the body work. You can also remove some of the hinge to body attachment screws to ease the doors away from the body work if it's really tight clearances.

The factory (and my replacement) doors are just glued together with a couple of screws holding the corners together. I really don't like smacking them to release the "C's" from the rail. But if that goes well, it certainly is faster than my method.

To get the new doors back on, reverse the process and slide them back on the rails. I made some new door retention straps from the same aluminum plate as the top skin. I just cut to size, bent an open "double" at one end (to fit into the C channel) and made sure the final width was the standard size, as this dimension is what sets the gap between the doors.

New replacement doors were around $850 each. It took me a couple of days and about $200 in material. This week, all gets repainted...can't wait for the exterior to be done!!

FYI, if you call Newmar parts, they sell the edging for these baggage doors seperate. I had two that were damaged when a concrete fuel pump island jumped out and scraped two doors. They come in 12' lengths if I recall. They cut them into 4' pieces for shipping. Around $120 for enough materiel to do four doors.

[TravisNTexas]

I am having the same issue. Not sure I can add to this thread. It did not let me the first time I tried.

[TravisNTexas]

It seems to have worked that time, so I will try again.

I ordered and received a replacement door. In the case of our 2007 MADP 4120, the only door on the coach that uses this hanging hinge is the passenger side bay immediately forward of the drive tires. It's the "Pegboard" bay that many people put outdoor TVs in.

I tried and tried different things to get the old door off, but finally ended up just unscrewing it from the hinges, so the old hinges are still captive in the channel.

I called Newmar Customer Service, described the hinge issue, and the guy I spoke too seemed genuinely interested and trying to help. He sent me a drawing to look at. When the email arrived and and I looked at it, it was about a bay door hinge, but was about a horizontally opening bay door with normal hinges. It was nothing like the hanging hinge that is the topic of this thread.

So I followed up with an email the next day, and included all the coach information including build number, the part number of the door that I had ordered and received, and pictures of the old hinges in the channel and the new hinges both on and off the new door.

To their credit, Newmar called me back the same day. But it was the same guy that sent me the wrong drawing. He told me there was no information for a coach that old (2007), and he told me again that you hold it at some angle like 30 degrees and it just pushes off and on. First time I have ever been disappointed with Newmar CS.

Today I found this thread which is awesome. I also went and looked again at COM_Net2 and found the attached instructions from Newmar! You would think they could have found it easily in response to my calls and email.

As it stands, I am going to try and install the new door on the old hinges.

[Roadyacht1]

Originally Posted by roadstar99

I am new to the forum but have found it already to be so helpful. Saw an old post about removing baggage doors but did not quite understand it. Newmar's way did not work. Got estimate of $400-$500 to remove old doors (3) by sliding them off but having to remove all doors and fender skirt, bending the hinge and sliding off the rear. Newmar said they will pop off the hinge but does not work. Previous post was to hold horizontally and push toward coach. Does that mean the sides of the doors (horizontally)? Do you hold doors 1/2 way open or up against coach side to push against the coach? Could someone help us novices to remove these doors and install 3 new ones?

Yes, by half way they mean parallel to the ground or or a little bit lower, there about. And yes, they are a PITA. For sure. But I did do it so it can be done. I have a yr2000 Dutch Star. Spartan, Cummins 38’ coach. I munched a couple on a tree root coming into a tight driveway. I had a local fiberglass shop repair and paint. I bought a length of the curved aluminum bottom from Newmar. So cost was fairly minimal. Sorry. It was 5 yrs ago so I cant give you as much detail as I would like. I was 75 at the Time so it couldn’t have been that hard psyically.