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Old 08-18-2019, 08:47 PM   #1
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Removing the Refer

Anyone had experience with removing a refer out of a DSDP4369 floor plan?

I'm having some issues with my Maytag not staying cold. I downloaded the service manual to get some clues. I removed the bottom grill to clean things out and found a couple screws mounting the bottom to the floor.

Above the refer is a board with a couple screws. I thought I would ask if there are any issues I will run into before I remove those screws and the board above the refer? I may need to pull the refer out to get to the back side to do more cleaning.
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Old 08-18-2019, 09:40 PM   #2
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I removed mine. It went out the bedroom window, once the doors where removed.

This was on the old style windows not the style that newmar is using on the 2019.
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbaron73 View Post
I removed mine. It went out the bedroom window, once the doors where removed.

This was on the old style windows not the style that newmar is using on the 2019.
I'm thinking I first want to start by just pulling it out of the cabinet space. Was there anything particularly odd about that?

BTW...If it has to actually come out of the coach... I'm not seeing it coming out of the bedroom window. Perhaps you were referring to your previous coach?
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:55 AM   #4
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Mine was bolted to floor and up top to a wood header behind the trim piece. No problem pulling out from there. Are you getting ice buildup at bottom of freezer floor?
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
I'm thinking I first want to start by just pulling it out of the cabinet space. Was there anything particularly odd about that?

BTW...If it has to actually come out of the coach... I'm not seeing it coming out of the bedroom window. Perhaps you were referring to your previous coach?
I have a friend that had the same problem on his 2014. Before you pull it out have the damper checked. It can be done from the inside of refer. That's what was wrong with his. That's if the freezer is staying cold. If not probably something else.
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:15 AM   #6
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It was my 2013 4347. I agree that the setup of the 4369 would not allow the refridge out. Heck I dont think I could get out that emergency window myself!


In the 4347 Inhad to remove the window valence and the glass. There was approx 1/2" clearance on all sides.


Dining table window is probably best option, but measure to be sure.
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
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I have a friend that had the same problem on his 2014. Before you pull it out have the damper checked. It can be done from the inside of refer. That's what was wrong with his. That's if the freezer is staying cold. If not probably something else.
I'm reading about the damper and will check that out. However, I'm not sure the freezer is staying cold. I'm monitoring that for now.

The fix is that I restart the refer which appears to force it into some kind of max cooling operation. I've tried the quick cool button but that doesn't seem to do the job.

Thanks!
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyinWP View Post
Mine was bolted to floor and up top to a wood header behind the trim piece. No problem pulling out from there. Are you getting ice buildup at bottom of freezer floor?
I'm not seeing an ice build up. There are 2 possible issues to look at other than a faulty control board. The first is the damper mentioned after your post and the second is refrigerant.

Working on checking out the damper after I'm done with this post. LOL
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:39 AM   #9
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I replaced control board, checked damper and upgraded to the duck bill setup. Ended up being pinhole leaks in the refrigerant lines.
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
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I replaced control board, checked damper and upgraded to the duck bill setup. Ended up being pinhole leaks in the refrigerant lines.
R.I.P.
Are you talking about your current coach? I just tried to find the "damper" that is supposed to activate and open when the refer door is open. Supposedly I can see this with the grill removed but I don't see any activity nor do I see something that looks like it should open/close. If it is behind the condenser coils then it might be hard to see if it isn't moving like it should.

We are about to move the coach from High Point NC to a one night stop in VA then 6 nights in College Park MD. I'm thinking I might need to get a technician involved when we get to College Park. That is the reason I am wanting to make sure pulling the refer out of the cabinet is relatively easy in case that is needed.

I'm assuming the refer is reparable and won't need to be tossed away. LOL While at it, I hope to solve why the refer water dispenser is slow when slide is out but non-existent when the slide is in.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:06 AM   #11
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This was my 2013 with the maytag. Do you have the older style larger fridge with ice in the door or newer one without ice in door?

Mine had ice in the door. I had to slide it out and remove an access plate center bottom of backside.
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Old 08-19-2019, 02:07 PM   #12
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The damper should be inside at the top of refer. Its controlled by a thermostat.
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbaron73 View Post
This was my 2013 with the maytag. Do you have the older style larger fridge with ice in the door or newer one without ice in door?

Mine had ice in the door. I had to slide it out and remove an access plate center bottom of backside.
I have ice & water in the door.
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:58 PM   #14
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I'm starting to suspect something that affects both the freezer and the refer. Both areas drop in temp.

The odd thing is that when I remove the power via the breaker then restart it the unit will cool down big time. I'm not finding anything in the service manual that explains this. BTW...I only do a momentary reset of power so I don't think it has anything to do with any frozen condenser or related parts thawing out. It also seems to rule out loss of refrigerant since it does get very cold during the hour or two after a restart. I won't say it eliminates refrigerant issues.

I've also used the service manual to change the temperature display on the door to show actual temps instead of set point. I've located the refer's thermistor (next to light bulb assembly at top of refer) and with a temperature gun it seems to read the same as the door display. This also agrees with the two thermometers I have in the refer too.

Currently I have to reset the unit about every 4-5 hours to get it to stay cold. At least I have that working for me while I try to get a technician to look at it.
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