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Replacing hot water heater
Old 01-21-2012, 06:33 PM   #1
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My hot water heater is leaking from the bottom, I have been told it is the tank and that I need to replace it. How hard is it to replace? I can't find any videos on the web showing the replacement process. I can get a replacement for half the price of what it will cost me to have someone do it. I am pretty good at fixing things but I would like to have alot of information before I take on a project especially something that involves propane. Thanks for anything you can give me.

Cathy

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Old 01-21-2012, 06:42 PM   #2
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Hi Cathy - a search on youtube brings up a few matches. Search for "RV water heater replacement". I found some there but didn't check them out.

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Old 01-21-2012, 08:19 PM   #3
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I'm assuming you have a 10 gallon Suburban heater. When you change the heater you will use the original door and outer frame. Only the heater itself gets changed. You remove the door and outer frame and slide the heater out through the hole. Don't be afraid of the propane. It's a simple 3/8 inch copper tube with a flare fitting. Just make sure when you hook it back up to check the connection with soapy water and watch for bubbles. If you see no bubbles you have no leak. I don't know if you know this but Suburban makes a 12 and a 16 gallon heater that will fit in the same opening as the 10 gallon. They just extend deeper into the basement. I put a 16 gallon in my 2000 dsdp.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:37 PM   #4
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how to clean out WH but using as reference you will see door removed and all the screws that will have to be removed after disconnecting the gas line.
Save everything on removal you may need a ribbon caulking for resealing behind frame with all the screws.
As said when screws removed the heater will slide out you may need help from someone to push out from space where you will disconnect the plumbing pipes in adjoining compartment.
After replacement and gas line tested for leaks with soapy water it will take a few light starts to get air out of line before it will relight the burner.
I would stick with a Surburban so all plumbing will just have to be reconnected.
Who ever checked your water heater did check the plumbing in compartment before he said you need a new one, right, may just need to tighten a pipe fitting, but need a flashlight to see the leak in compartment.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:46 PM   #5
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Welcome Rotten-Red to the forum and irv2.
Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathy&Paula View Post
My hot water heater is leaking from the bottom, I have been told it is the tank and that I need to replace it. How hard is it to replace? I can't find any videos on the web showing the replacement process. I can get a replacement for half the price of what it will cost me to have someone do it. I am pretty good at fixing things but I would like to have alot of information before I take on a project especially something that involves propane. Thanks for anything you can give me.

Cathy
There is a tankless option available that fits!
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:35 PM   #7
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I just changed out my 10 gal Suburban with a 12 gal & I'm sure glad I also ordered the new door kit also! Loosening and removing the sealant around the original door frame, which also bent up the frame quite a bit, was by far the most difficult part.

A friend showed me a trick in loosening and cutting through old sealant in this type job. He uses a 2" or 3" scraper with a 30 degree bend mid blade. The bend merely allows working without beating up your knuckles. He heated the blade for about 5-10 seconds and then shoved the end of the blade into the frame sealant. He was able to do this 5-6 times before heating it again, so each evolution separated around 8-10 inches. We were pulling out on the frame as the sealant was "cut" apart and held it out with some small dowel pieces. Cleanup was easy after the door frame was off. The job to this point was about an hour. The new water heater was in and heating up in another 30 minutes! I hope this helps.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:32 AM   #8
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OP, I'm surprised it's leaking so soon!!!

I've never had a tank go bad in my 55 years of RV'ing. The one in our 2002 DSDP is doing just fine.
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Old 01-22-2012, 04:41 AM   #9
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Welcome Jawja Sailor to the Newmar forum & irv2.
Thanks for you post, good to see Newmar owners moving into the spot light.
Enjoy the forums and safe travels.

I have to agree with Mr D, seems kind of early to have a leaky water tank thats why I suggested to look at plumbing pipe fittings.
Its not the first time some dealer wants to make a fast buck off someone.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
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OP, I'm surprised it's leaking so soon!!!

I've never had a tank go bad in my 55 years of RV'ing. The one in our 2002 DSDP is doing just fine.
Our friends here at the park where we're staying just had there Suburban 10 gallon water heater replaced under warranty. They have a newer 5th wheel. Once removed it appeared to be leaking around a seal. There was no charge for the tank but final cost for labor to remove and replace was $250.00.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:05 AM   #11
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I pulled everything out of the basement and let everything dry out and used the hot water heater the same as always and I have no leak. Does anyone know why?? I have checked all the connections and there is no leak there. I have a suburban SW12DEM and where the engine hose connects to the back has some of the insulation exposed and I can put my finger in the hole and the insulation is wet but has dryed out some in the past 2 days. This happened to a water heater that I had in my house and there was a hole in the tank so I assumed the same with this case. Could there be anything else that could be leaking that would cause me NOT to have to change out the water heater??
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:23 AM   #12
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I guess the part I don't understand is "the engine hose connects to the back"? Otherwise do you have water entering the area from another source like a leak from outside? Just a thought.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathy&Paula View Post
My hot water heater is leaking from the bottom, I have been told it is the tank and that I need to replace it. How hard is it to replace? I can't find any videos on the web showing the replacement process. I can get a replacement for half the price of what it will cost me to have someone do it. I am pretty good at fixing things but I would like to have alot of information before I take on a project especially something that involves propane. Thanks for anything you can give me.

Cathy
Mine was leaking at the bottom and I was told at CW I needed a new one. I decided to take it out myself and have a look. Turned out it was a plastic 'nipple' connector that had cracked at the water inlet. I bought a brass one, and replaced it. Cost: Less than $10, and half a day of my precious lounging/napping time.

Dad always said "Never have your eyes examined at a place that sells glasses." Similar advice applies here.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:39 AM   #14
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Where was the nipple that your are talking about??

My pressure relief value has been leaking water on and off for a few weeks and know I have the water leak. For the past 2 days it has not leaked but today it started leaking again and I now have water coming out from under the water tank. Could the pressure relief value be causing the leaking from somewhere else on the tank.

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