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Old 07-30-2016, 12:28 PM   #1
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Replacing kitchen slide out motor (center mounted)

I am kinda stuck...
Looking at this document page 10/30 (labelled page 5) (exactly my set-up).

http://www.mo-fl.com/Slideout/full_S...nformation.pdf

I see the 1 inch shaft is in two pieces connected together with a trans-torque bushing near the center, the bushing is forced in the "adapter" mounted at the front end of the shaft going towards the rear.
The motor is mounted on the shaft going towards the front of the coach and is held on the shaft with another trans-torque bushing.
I have loosened the two trans-torque, my motor is moving freely on the front shaft but I need to slip it out and in order to accomplish this I have to separate the two shafts. The end of the front shaft (where the motor will slip out) is "stuck" inside the "adapter" at the front end of the rear shaft.

On the outside ends of the two shafts, there are "steel keys" that connect the shaft to the cog assemblies. I have loosened and removed the allen key on the "steel key" for the rear cog and banged on the shaft (towards the front) about 1/2 inch and that is not enough to slip the end of the shaft from the cog assembly. The end of the front shaft is now pushed tight to the bottom of the "adapter", no more room.

I don't think (hope not) I have to disassemble the cog wheels.

What am I missing?
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Old 07-30-2016, 01:07 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHIDan View Post
I am kinda stuck...
Looking at this document page 10/30 (labelled page 5) (exactly my set-up).

http://www.mo-fl.com/Slideout/full_S...nformation.pdf

I see the 1 inch shaft is in two pieces connected together with a trans-torque bushing near the center, the bushing is forced in the "adapter" mounted at the front end of the shaft going towards the rear.
The motor is mounted on the shaft going towards the front of the coach and is held on the shaft with another trans-torque bushing.
I have loosened the two trans-torque, my motor is moving freely on the front shaft but I need to slip it out and in order to accomplish this I have to separate the two shafts. The end of the front shaft (where the motor will slip out) is "stuck" inside the "adapter" at the front end of the rear shaft.

On the outside ends of the two shafts, there are "steel keys" that connect the shaft to the cog assemblies. I have loosened and removed the allen key on the "steel key" for the rear cog and banged on the shaft (towards the front) about 1/2 inch and that is not enough to slip the end of the shaft from the cog assembly. The end of the front shaft is now pushed tight to the bottom of the "adapter", no more room.

I don't think (hope not) I have to disassemble the cog wheels.

What am I missing?
I haven't done one but I think the Transtorque(s) must be loose enough to slide on the shaft/adapter. I think your stuck adapter is the issue ... heat it?

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Old 07-30-2016, 01:29 PM   #3
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Hi Bruce and thanks!
The two trans-torque are out completely (motor is loose and the two shafts are kind of loose). The end of the front shaft runs into the adapter on the front of the rear shaft (was held by one of two t-torque). The front shaft needs to move forward (or rear one needs to move back) in order for shaft to come out of adapter (and free out the shaft). It is not stuck, I am trying to slip the rear end of the rear shaft out of the cog assembly but I can't push forward enough. There has to be a trick.
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Old 07-30-2016, 02:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHIDan View Post
Hi Bruce and thanks!
The two trans-torque are out completely (motor is loose and the two shafts are kind of loose). The end of the front shaft runs into the adapter on the front of the rear shaft (was held by one of two t-torque). The front shaft needs to move forward (or rear one needs to move back) in order for shaft to come out of adapter (and free out the shaft). It is not stuck, I am trying to slip the rear end of the rear shaft out of the cog assembly but I can't push forward enough. There has to be a trick.
Tough to visualize ... I found this:

E. Slide Out Motor Replacement- Newmar.

1. Center Motor Slide Out Replacement - On center motor slide out assemblies, the one-inch
drive shaft goes through the slide out motor. Disassembly of the shaft will be necessary to
remove the motor. The slide out motor can be taken off of the shaft in one direction only
a. Before starting the disassembly of the shaft, a jack must be placed under the slide out to
take all of the weight off of the drive wheel.

b. Remove all shafts and the drive wheel between the motor and the actuating arm.
c. Loosen the transtorque bushing and the four mounting screws that hold the slide out
motor. Disconnect the 12v power supply. The motor will now slide off of the shaft.
d. When installing the motor, torque the bushing to 145#. Re-install the remaining drive
assembly in the reverse order from which it was removed.

This sounds like the room/slide needs to off the cogs.


See if anything in this thread helps:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/slid...al-217499.html
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Old 07-31-2016, 04:08 AM   #5
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Which is the "drive wheel"? I have cog wheels on each end of the slide.

What is the actuator arm, is this the shaft to which the motor is attached?

And BTW, my slide out is closed, I don't see what difference it makes...
And I read the other thread where the OP had the same problem I have but he never posted the solution/outcome.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHIDan View Post
Which is the "drive wheel"? I have cog wheels on each end of the slide.

What is the actuator arm, is this the shaft to which the motor is attached?

And BTW, my slide out is closed, I don't see what difference it makes...
And I read the other thread where the OP had the same problem I have but he never posted the solution/outcome.

I agree the wording is a bit odd (as most of Spartan/Newmar/Dometic text is) but I think:

1) the drive wheels are the cog wheels.
2) the "actuator arms" are "actuator tubes" on the drawing (the long boxed arms that support the slide).
3) you might send a PM to the person that had the same problem and see if he remembers the solution.
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:57 AM   #7
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Thanks again Bruce,
Not too many have done this I suppose, so it's reassuring to see that this slide system works well for most and I'm maybe just one of very few unlucky...

I was afraid I would have to take the cog drive wheel out, I could just see alignment problems after re-install, doesn't look like it though. I now see no other way and now I see why the slide has to come up a little. The cog is mounted on a small keyed shaft (about 8 inches) which is slipped thru a channel and in order to slip it out, I will have to raise the slide just enough to get pressure off. Compartment door is in the way so it comes out too...
BTW slide is easy to move with pipe wrench at this point so it's opened about 6 inches so I can get my jack under the end of the actuator tube. (the tube with the drive holes).
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:07 AM   #8
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Our kitchen/living room slide would not move the motor would just run I could push the slide in and out and would use a ratchet strap inside with the seat belts to restrain the slide while traveling I replaced the forward 1" torque bushing on my kitchen/living room slide I removed the chain driving the cog wheel and unbolted the shaft at the support bushings at the forward end that allowed the shaft to slide forward to remove and replace the torque bushing the torque for the 1" torque bushing is 145 pounds all went back together good and the slide works good


Good Luck
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:10 AM   #9
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I suggest you call a Newmar dealer and talk to a service man. I had same motor replaced at Carthage MO. To get motor out small shaft held in by Allen ended up broken in half. Lucky they had part in stock and motor unit was replaced. Took them 5 hours for a tech that knew what to do. Glad I paid them get the service done. Cause was broken attachment bolts. 2 were broke off when Newmar service guy in Nappane suggested bump the motor to Line up bolt holes when one has fallen out from lack of retightening. Good luck
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:15 PM   #10
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I could not spend any time on it today but yesterday almost got it out. Last hurdle is a bushing/bearing stuck, will not slip on the keyed shaft that holds the cog wheel. As soon as I get it to move (it turns but will not go sideways) the motor is out. There is no banging needed at all to do this job contrary to what I read.
To loosen the trans torque I used my battery powered makita impact (DTW1002Z) (new toy) with a crows foot wrench and a short extension, 10 seconds. I will tighten the same way and then use my torque wrench to make the 145 psi which I know is critical.

I can never be stuck again with a slide that won't open or close. 2 options now, apply 12 volts to motor directly or loosen the t-torque to break the two shafts apart and then use a small pipe wrench to turn the rear most shaft to open slide, very easy.
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:01 PM   #11
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I could not spend any time on it today but yesterday almost got it out. Last hurdle is a bushing/bearing stuck, will not slip on the keyed shaft that holds the cog wheel. As soon as I get it to move (it turns but will not go sideways) the motor is out. There is no banging needed at all to do this job contrary to what I read.
To loosen the trans torque I used my battery powered makita impact (DTW1002Z) (new toy) with a crows foot wrench and a short extension, 10 seconds. I will tighten the same way and then use my torque wrench to make the 145 psi which I know is critical.

I can never be stuck again with a slide that won't open or close. 2 options now, apply 12 volts to motor directly or loosen the t-torque to break the two shafts apart and then use a small pipe wrench to turn the rear most shaft to open slide, very easy.
Is this the part that looks like a collar with an allen set-screw in it?
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:09 PM   #12
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Curious?... Where did you get the replacement motor and how much did it cost?
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:10 PM   #13
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Thanks again Bruce,
Not too many have done this I suppose, so it's reassuring to see that this slide system works well for most and I'm maybe just one of very few unlucky...

I was afraid I would have to take the cog drive wheel out, I could just see alignment problems after re-install, doesn't look like it though. I now see no other way and now I see why the slide has to come up a little. The cog is mounted on a small keyed shaft (about 8 inches) which is slipped thru a channel and in order to slip it out, I will have to raise the slide just enough to get pressure off. Compartment door is in the way so it comes out too...
BTW slide is easy to move with pipe wrench at this point so it's opened about 6 inches so I can get my jack under the end of the actuator tube. (the tube with the drive holes).
I suspect it might not be as easy on a flat-floor slide (ramp) .... sigh.
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:15 PM   #14
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Is this the part that looks like a collar with an allen set-screw in it?
Nope. The cog is on the center of that short shaft and on each side of the cog there is a bushing/bearing inside of metal brackets screwed to the brackets that hold the whole assembly. There are two collars, one on each side of the cog bushings and yes those have a set screw but those are out..
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