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Old 02-22-2019, 05:45 PM   #1
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Residential Refrig in 09 4043

My project this spring when I get home will be to install a residential frig. I done some preliminary measurements and I have 27" at the door and most counter width models are 24.5 with the doors off. It looks like the seat and assit handle have to be removed. The entry past the the front Tv looks to be a little tight. I know there is more room through the drivers window, but the door would be easier. I have read the threads hear and have not found one on the DS. I started with the Samsung 18 CW. They seem to get alot of flack on line for reliability and the water in the drawer issue. They are available at a reasonable cost. The GE CW looks interesting also. Anybody have experience on a similar year DS?
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Old 02-22-2019, 06:02 PM   #2
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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Bill.....not knowing your front door design, I will suggest that you disconnect the arm at the top of the door, swing the passenger mirror forward and open the door past it's normal stop point when the arm is in place. This typically gives you an additional 2"- 3" of door opening space (the width of the door).

Of the three I've done, lifting the refer a little higher, usually clears the passenger seat if the backrest is moved back. Save the new refer cardboard and use it to protect the dash as you lift the refer in.

Lastly, buy a wooden furniture dolly from Harbor Freight. Build up the height of the dolly by adding a wood frame so that it's the same height as the refer opening. This allows you to roll the refer around and slide it in and out for fitment testing.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:24 AM   #3
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Thanks Don
My door is angled so that I loose about 2.5 inches at the top. It may slip in with the seat back tilted back. The refrig is a 150lbs plus so I think it will be a three or four man job.
I saw the harbor freight dolly on another thread. Looks like the best way to transport the old and the new refrigs across the ceramic tile.
Do you know if the current 110 outlet for the frig is on the inverter?
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Old 02-23-2019, 09:19 AM   #4
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I did the installs on two Monaco Diplomats and one Itasca Meridian. On the Diplomats, they had only a shore power outlet for the ice maker. I don't recall on the Meridian. On the Diplomats, I added a second 600 watt Magnum inverter for running the refer.

Either way, it shouldn't be hard to run an outlet from inverted wiring to the back of the cabinet.

I reused the water line to the OEM refer for the new refer and added an inline filter at the height of the outside access door. I sealed the vents internally on the outside door, but left it removable so I could secure the new refer via the door, plug it in and service the filter.

I made a "T" shape bracket out of tin, with two sides of the "T" being 6" long and one side 1" long. I used two sided tape and several sheet metal screws to attach it to the to the side of the new refer at the top rear, with the 1" tall part extending upward on top. Once the refer was installed, I went on the roof, removed the refer vent and attached an aluminum arm to that bracket and the other end to the framed out opening of the roof vent. This stabilized the top of the refer and kept it very secure.
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Old 02-24-2019, 05:58 AM   #5
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Thanks again Don. The most concerning part to me is getting it inside the coach. Once that is accomplished, the rest will be fun. I had planned on using the seat belt strapping other have used to secure it. I was thinking of using turnbuckles to secure them to the floor. Guess I need to ring the currrent 110 outlet to check if it is part of the inverter circuit. I also have a water line from Old frig. So you sealed the outside door and the roof vent? Did you insulate the cabinet? What door locks did you install to secure the frig in transit?
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Old 02-24-2019, 07:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw209 View Post
My project this spring when I get home will be to install a residential frig. I done some preliminary measurements and I have 27" at the door and most counter width models are 24.5 with the doors off. It looks like the seat and assit handle have to be removed. The entry past the the front Tv looks to be a little tight. I know there is more room through the drivers window, but the door would be easier. I have read the threads hear and have not found one on the DS. I started with the Samsung 18 CW. They seem to get alot of flack on line for reliability and the water in the drawer issue. They are available at a reasonable cost. The GE CW looks interesting also. Anybody have experience on a similar year DS?
After spending days trying to decide I just pushed open the Side Window and Brought it in. Bigger opening and just made it easy.

If you have a pickup and a couple friends it should be easy - I had a Bob cat with forks and with two of us it was easy.

Look here - Samsung fridge installed

Best of Luck,
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:56 AM   #7
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My refer cabinet had exposed studs. I used the silver backed hard insulation to fill between the studs and then the silver duct tape (shiny type from the ducting aisle) to seal all the joints.

I sealed the back side of the access door, but left it removable. On the roof, I added screen mesh to the vent to keep bugs out, but left the vent open.

I attached four photos....in the first one, you can see the clamp I made for the top of the refer, that attached to the roof vent frame for stability.

I used the Samsung three door refer (loved that refer for the both the quality and large ice bucket). I tried different door locks, but wanted it to be simple and my wife could open it while driving, for soda and ice.

I made a lock by bending two pieces of tin into matching "U" blocks, the thickness of the doors. I attached them together with rivets, so the opening of the "U" on both units were facing opposite directions. I would open one door of the refer, slide the "U" portion that was facing down over the freezer door and then slide it to the right, so the "U" portion facing upward slid under the closed right door. I would close the left door and slide the assembly back to the middle. The upper "U" was now trapping both upper doors. Since they were trapped, they couldn't open. Since they couldn't open, the freezer door couldn't slide out. The assembly was about 8" wide so it covered enough of the upper doors to keep them closed. I covered them with felt so they didn't scratch the door. While on the road, you could simply slide the lock left or right deciding on which side of the refer you wanted to enter. You would have to remove it to get into the freezer.

Since the time I made that lock (ten years ago) a lot of other refer locks have become available and may work as well or better.


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Old 02-24-2019, 10:18 AM   #8
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Thanks again all
You got me excited about the escape hatch, I have the width but unfortunately not the Height. I have a row of cabinets above that limits my height to 24 inches. Guess I am back to the door or remove the drivers window. I plan to use a scaffold that will give me the height I determine I need to stage the unit. There were some interesting suggestions for the hold downs. I need to see what the frame on the bottom looks like dependent on the frig I buy. Best price on the samsung was 1149 no tax no shipping. The ge is more like 1450. Guess I will check them out when I get to a HD or Lowes that has the. Still a little concerned about the online reviews about the samsung, but it seems to be a favorite with RVERS.
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Old 02-24-2019, 11:06 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by wlw209 View Post
Thanks again all
You got me excited about the escape hatch, I have the width but unfortunately not the Height. I have a row of cabinets above that limits my height to 24 inches. Guess I am back to the door or remove the drivers window. I plan to use a scaffold that will give me the height I determine I need to stage the unit. There were some interesting suggestions for the hold downs. I need to see what the frame on the bottom looks like dependent on the frig I buy. Best price on the samsung was 1149 no tax no shipping. The ge is more like 1450. Guess I will check them out when I get to a HD or Lowes that has the. Still a little concerned about the online reviews about the samsung, but it seems to be a favorite with RVERS.
When I started to look for mine they were not on sale - so by chance I just looked on Craigslist - Brand New in the Box - never opened $600. hard to beat - later Home Depot had a Clean floor model for $400 - so if you have some time search a little, might just pay off . (ended up with the $600 unit but it was Perfect)
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:21 PM   #10
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Bill....when I installed mine in my 2005 Diplomat, it was a tight fit, height wise. The heater for my Diplomat was under the refer. I actually had 1" of space between the top of the heater and the bottom of the refer. I ran the heater and found there was no heat above the unit when it ran, so I bolted two angle iron tracks right over the heater. I bolted two tracks on the bottom of the refer and slid the refer in, riding on those tracks. I was able to drill through both tracks and secure the refer in place.
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Old 02-24-2019, 04:41 PM   #11
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I just pulled the vents underneath to check the height of the precision temp heat exchanger. There is 4" on top and it is jacked up on 5 pieces of plywood. It may be possible to get all of the approximately 6" I will need from the bottom of the cabinet. I will have to move the two wooden grates lower, but I don't see any down side to lowering the heat exchanger. I have time to shop, so I will keep my eyes open.The logistics of entry will be my planning over the next month.
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Old 02-24-2019, 07:58 PM   #12
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Since I only had 1" of height, I measured and studied the project for months, making sure I could get the refer in. I even had someone send me pictures of the underside of the refer to make sure there were some attachment points.

The refer with the doors off and all the interior shelves and drawers removed was surprisingly light to handle with two people.
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Old 02-25-2019, 05:48 AM   #13
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Hope you are correct. The advertised wt on the Samsung r18 is 165lbs. If we get to 120 without the doors and drawers I will be happy. I want to start it up outside the coach to be sure it operates, strip it and then use my scaffold to get it in. The frig base and dimensions will determine the rest of the project. Thanks don and Busskipper.
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:11 AM   #14
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Once you turn it on it's side to get it in, make sure it sits for at least 12 hours to make sure the oil in the compressor settles back down where it's suppose to be. By turning it on its side, the compressor oil can get in the lines.
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