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Old 11-24-2017, 09:27 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by mlh2013 View Post
I have concrete for the floor of the motorhome barn.I'm going to build the ramps using your specs they look like good solid ramps.
You could add more vertical pieces of 2X10's under the bottom side if you question the strength.

When using the ramps I back upon them instead of driving up. That way the entire rear has no obstructions for getting at the engine and transmission. The 10-3/4" of lift make it easy to work on a creeper. Next best thing to a pit in the floor.

I don't know how high of a ceiling you have, but make sure you have enough clearance when up on the ramps. I have to position my MH so the overhead door track doesn't hit the satellite dish.

Adding a photo: The reason you see jack stands at the rear and leveling jacks down in rear is because I was changing rear air bags. Otherwise the jacks & stands aren't necessary.
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:21 PM   #44
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I purchased some 22-ton Jack Stands from Northern Tool & Supply where each separate stand is rated for 22-tons. $159.
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Old 11-28-2017, 12:21 PM   #45
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It's what I do too. Or I dig a hole in my yard with my tractor backhoe and drive the front or rear over.
I would like to do that too, but my wife would never go for it! So it's the driveway, cardboard, old clothes and gloves, and drain pan.
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:26 PM   #46
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Hydraulic jacks can retract under many dangerous and mysterious ways.


If you are under there, you cannot get out fast enough. You must use safety jacks.

I recently had water get into my transmission computer and believe it or not it caused the jacks to retract as if there was an emergency.

This command from the ECM was telling the jack control that it was in gear with the jacks down.

So be careful.

Just recently my truck fell on me. I had a jack stand and a jack under it. The jack slipped and put some sideways motion onto the jack stand and caused it to slip out. I survived but my wife almost had a heart attack.
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:44 PM   #47
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To answer the one question, I have a tag axle so I run the inside dual up on a ramp and the tag on a ramp. I don't use a ramp under the outside dual and I don't leave it on the ramps for more than a few hours.
I made ramps out of 2x6s and plywood, stacking them so I have about 7 inches of height. The ramps are wide enough to support both dual tires on each side. I let the Tag axle hang.

I'm not sure why you (Don) are concerned about leaving the coach up on the ramps too long. Maybe because you are only supporting one of the dually tires per side.

I have my coach up now and its been three days. It will probably stay up there for a week while I attend to things. I can't see any harm being done.
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:51 PM   #48
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If I were building a set of ramps, I would (a) build them wide enough to support both tires of the dual pair and (b) add 2-3 cross braces inside the longitudinal stringers to prevent a sideways collapse. Personally, I like the grease pit idea much better and will be incorporating it into a future coach storage building.

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Old 11-28-2017, 07:10 PM   #49
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If you're interested.
Give this man a reward! Great post with shopping list and dimensions!
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:42 AM   #50
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Give this man a reward! Great post with shopping list and dimensions!
Thanks for the acknowledgment.
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