Sanicon Fix

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

This should not change, many people don’t know that the sewer exit pipe rotates up and down, if you rotate it up the hose and end will go through from the right side.

So the head of the hose easily goes through?

[Stuart W]

Yes, from the right side of the valves, rotate the valves up, holding the skinny hose end pointed to the rear, feed the large end in to the hole while rotating the large end towards the back of the coach, like threading a needle.

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

Yes, from the right side of the valves, rotate the valves up, holding the skinny hose end pointed to the rear, feed the large end in to the hole while rotating the large end towards the back of the coach, like threading a needle.

Thanks

[WardSimmons]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

Yes, from the right side of the valves, rotate the valves up, holding the skinny hose end pointed to the rear, feed the large end in to the hole while rotating the large end towards the back of the coach, like threading a needle.

Stuart-

These steps aren’t required/possible for the way the New Aire wet bay is configured. I’m guessing this process is unique to the Dutch Star. Canuck53, I can’t tell what coach you own, so Stuart’s answer may or may not apply.

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by WardSimmons

Stuart-

These steps aren’t required/possible for the way the New Aire wet bay is configured. I’m guessing this process is unique to the Dutch Star. Canuck53, I can’t tell what coach you own, so Stuart’s answer may or may not apply.

I have a DS on order, prints recently approved and pickup in the spring.

[Festivus]

Hello, coming in late on this. I have a new to me Ventana. The macerater exit hose is not very long. Since my toilets already macerate the waste do I really need to use the exit pump. Seams to me easier to just do it the way I have on my last 3 coaches? I know this is not related to the FIX but this is my observation.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by Festivus

Hello, coming in late on this. I have a new to me Ventana. The macerater exit hose is not very long. Since my toilets already macerate the waste do I really need to use the exit pump. Seams to me easier to just do it the way I have on my last 3 coaches? I know this is not related to the FIX but this is my observation.

For me, l like the speed that it empties the tanks, and how clean the process is. I remove the hose from the wet bay with the black cap facing up, remove the black cap, place it in the hole, pump, lift it back up and turn it over, install black cap and stow the hose.
To answer your question, no you don’t need to use it.
Happy New year!

[Festivus]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

For me, l like the speed that it empties the tanks, and how clean the process is. I remove the hose from the wet bay with the black cap facing up, remove the black cap, place it in the hole, pump, lift it back up and turn it over, install black cap and stow the hose.
To answer your question, no you don’t need to use it.
Happy New year!

Thank you Stuart

[Canuck53]

Well has anyone see the Newmar official fix?

No tours so can not see it on the line but maybe someone has taken deliver?

[plane]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

For me, l like the speed that it empties the tanks, and how clean the process is. I remove the hose from the wet bay with the black cap facing up, remove the black cap, place it in the hole, pump, lift it back up and turn it over, install black cap and stow the hose.
To answer your question, no you don’t need to use it.
Happy New year!

I use my 3 inch standard drain on a regular basis and only wanted the sanacon systems to allow me to drain my tanks when I return home and prepare for storage. Makes my life easier, plus when at home I can drain anytime, my house clean out is about 50 feet from coach and slightly uphill.

[NealC]

I suggest return to square 1 after all of this and outline what to really expect from Sanicon. I recently purchased a Sanicon and am almost complete with my install. But in the process of reading all of these posts I think people may need to understand the limitations and adjust expectations. Some examples are:

1) Because the sanicon will never be below the 3" tank exit or low enough, you will never be able to evacuate all fluids out of the connector hose to the sanicon or from the pump.

2) Pump upside down will slightly reduce gray bypass but as long as the gray drain has enough pressure it will flow through the pump no matter the orientation. Yes, skinny side of the pump down is the proper orientation but the difference is probably minimal but it will retain more fluid within the pump housing.

3) The sanicon hose should be routed through the 3" exit hole if possible, no additional holes or ports in the wet bay trim should be needed. This is only if you intend to leave it connected.

4) No reason not to use a 3" gravity drain system. At times consider which is best for your needs. But also consider what Sanicon is designed for. The traditional stinky slinky has advantages but it does require stowing which some may not want to deal with. And in older coaches prior to '17 may not have the integrated storage compartment.

5) The larger the pump the higher it will be over the 3" sewer drain. The 400T is the proper model for the Newmar wet bay according to who I spoke with at Thetford, for some reason Newmar is choosing the 600. It will be interesting to compare stats of a 400T dump vs. a 600T dump. According to Thetford the time is the same. But Newmar only offers the larger pumps as their options depending on coach. After market is often best in many Newmar options I've come to learn.

6) Any and all sewer hoses are subject to pin holes when being subjected to gravel. I had a Valterra dominator get a pin hole, a garden hose get a pin hole, biggest thing is awareness. A protective sleeve is a nice option up to you and how you secure your hose and when you use it.

7) I don't have experience with the issue of the hose smelling over time such as if it's not food grade material maybe it has some porous properties, I don't know. A fix for that is to also store it in the stinky slinky compartment if needed.

Just random thoughts from a new Sanicon'er and absorbing all of these threads and installing my own which I have yet to use. But I enjoy learning these RV options so I bought one and will see how things go.

My $.02

[Stuart W]

Neal, over a year ago when I first pointed out the upside down pump mounting to Newmar and Thetford, at first Newmar was in denial and said that their install had been certified by Thetford. I pushed the issue with Thetford leading Thetford engineers to go to Newmar and audit Newmar’s install. The findings were that in the upside down position the pump would stay full of fluid eliminating the gravity assist design of the pump. It was also determined that the pump internals were not designed to be constantly submerged in fluid and this would lead to premature failure of the pump. By directly mounting the pump to the sewer bayonet and eliminating 24 inches of 3 inch hose, a substantial amount of standing fluid is eliminated, by flipping the pump over,80% or more of the standing fluid in the pump is eliminated. I now have a protective sleeve on the discharge hose and so far so good after 3 $80 hoses in a year of part time use. The difference in a pinhole in a stinky slinky and a pressurized Sanicon hose is substantial, under pressure the dirty water can squirt pretty far. As far as the 400 being the right pump, I have knowledge of the 400.
As a follow up, last week I received a letter from Newmar that said an updated bracket is now available and I would need to contact my dealer to have the bracket installed. Through yesterday I have looked on Newmar’s TSB and recall site and no procedures have been written for the installation.