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Old 11-22-2017, 03:52 PM   #1
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Shower leak

On our last trip I notice that the liner inside the electrical bay was sagging a little. When I pushed on it I could hear what sounded like water. Being I didn't want any water leaking onto the transfer box, I poked a small hole in the liner and sure enough water came out. It wasn't a whole lot, probably a couple quarts or so, but still enough that I knew the shower was leaking.

I pulled the return air duct off the bottom of the shower and water was dripping from the shower drain into the underbelly. This is probably something that should be checked yearly. I pulled out all the wet insulation, and then tried to get the drain out as it looks like it just needs to be resealed. My question is how to you get the drain out. It is attached underneath by a flange but I can't get the drain top to turn without the flange moving too. It is too tight to get channel locks in there. Has anybody done this or have any ideas. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-22-2017, 05:07 PM   #2
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My Newmar is 10 years older than yours. But, I have an air vent just below the shower door, that when removed allows limited access to the underside of the drain.

The air vent is not connected to anything, it is just to vent the underside of the shower. I assume it was factory, but it is possible that it was added after market.
My shower is fiberglass.
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Old 11-22-2017, 06:33 PM   #3
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I had same water leak issue with my 2015 Bay Star. I had two ducts in the shower base. One had a hose connected for furnace heat and the other had nothing attached. I removed the hose from the one duct which then provided good access to the shower drain. I removed the plastic pipe and unscrewed the flange. Then I pushed the drain up thru the hole in the base. The underneath of the drain was poorly siliconed causing it to leak. I cleaned up the area and applied new silicone and reassembled everything. No leaks so far after a year and half.
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Old 11-22-2017, 07:38 PM   #4
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The shower vent is your furnace air return vent from your bay compartments back to your furnace return vent under the face of fridge wall.
So that the passage is open they placeed a foil tube or plastic through the insulation that was under the shower stall.
You still need the return air or else the basement will not heatup fully.
You need some type of pliers to get the shower drain nut off drain pipe.
The earlier BAY STAR's had problems with the shower floors cracking because of poor support of floor.
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Old 11-22-2017, 11:16 PM   #5
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I did make access thru the air return vent, and was able to get everything apart and pull out the wet insulation. The problem I have is getting the flange nut off the drain pipe so I can pull it up and out. There is a piece of plywood between the shower pan and floor, and I can't get a grip on the nut. I was just wondering how others have done it. I don't want to force the shower floor up too much if it could crack it. Thanks
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Old 11-23-2017, 06:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike and Cha View Post
I did make access thru the air return vent, and was able to get everything apart and pull out the wet insulation. The problem I have is getting the flange nut off the drain pipe so I can pull it up and out. There is a piece of plywood between the shower pan and floor, and I can't get a grip on the nut. I was just wondering how others have done it. I don't want to force the shower floor up too much if it could crack it. Thanks
Unfortunate that these kinds of problems, which are VERY likely to occur in a "house on wheels" are not made easier to repair Mike, hope you get yours fixed soon...I'll be following this as mine will likely be next.
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:02 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Mike and Cha View Post
I did make access thru the air return vent, and was able to get everything apart and pull out the wet insulation. The problem I have is getting the flange nut off the drain pipe so I can pull it up and out. There is a piece of plywood between the shower pan and floor, and I can't get a grip on the nut. I was just wondering how others have done it. I don't want to force the shower floor up too much if it could crack it. Thanks
If the board is in the way you have no choice but remove the board, fix the drain and cut new board to replace the one removed.
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:24 PM   #8
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If the board is in the way you have no choice but remove the board, fix the drain and cut new board to replace the one removed.
Well that was my thought but there is really no way to get the board out without cutting it up, and then how would you get a new one back in. I could just cut the front piece of the board off which would give me better access, and it most likely doesn't do anything anyway. I haven't had a chance to get back in there again. I'm going to try and find some thinner channel locks or pliers before I cut anything. This would be such an easy fix if there was just a little more access, I guess they never expect that to leak, and was probably done wrong from the original build. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:35 PM   #9
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Old 11-24-2017, 01:05 PM   #10
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Thanks Bill, there are some tools in there that would work. Once I get the thing off it's an easy fix, no more complicated than putting in a new sink drain ect. It's just the way they build these things, no forethought of what repairs may be needed down the road. For about $20 they could have put an access panel under the shower on the roof of the electrical bay.
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Old 11-24-2017, 02:46 PM   #11
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I had this problem too. Was a pain to get apart but took the furnace duct of and worked through both holes. I also purchased a better shower drain (metal) than the plastic one that was the OE. The plastic has a tendency to crack when tightening and with flex of floor with showering. The bigger problem is how they cut the plywood flooring when they did the original install. It is a terrible job. The drain pipe barely fits in the corner of the plumbing cut out. The only way to correct is to remove the shower pan so you can get to the plywood--no way to get a saw of any sort in through the air cutouts. Newmar should be ashamed of the carpentry work and shower install, especially since this is a problem with many rigs. I thought I was the only one who got the moron carpenter and shower installer. The cutout makes no sense as the plywood from the drain over to the edge of the shower pan was removed in a large wedge--it removed a good deal of floor support. Why they didn't just cut a round hole with a hole saw is beyond my comprehension--and I am not even a novice DYI person. I would post a picture if I knew how but I don't. Since I made the repairs I placed a shallow pan below the drain and bought a water alarm that will go off if it leaks again. I will be at Newmar in 2 weeks and plan to show them how what you can't see until a problem happens doesn't speak too highly of their craftsmanship. Such an easy thing to do right--however, when done wrong it can be a major problem.
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Old 11-24-2017, 05:01 PM   #12
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Can you get a Dremel tool in there and nibble away enough wood to get a channel lock on the flange nut?
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:26 PM   #13
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Mike, can you make a flange nut wrench out of a piece of wood, like a 1"x4" x 24". Notch the end of the 1"x4" so that it fit over the flange. If you lived closer, I would weld you up a tool.
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Old 11-25-2017, 11:34 AM   #14
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Thanks for all the suggestions, due to the holiday and I pulled a calf muscle I haven't been able to get back in there. I'm hoping I can get back to it next week. You know how it is when your toy is broken though, you just can't stop thinking about it until it's repaired. Thanks Don, I have even thought of driving it to Tom's just to have Mike take it off, I'm sure he must have a tool for it......Thanks Again
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