Side Radiator Lower Shield

[handstjg]

We own a 2008 Newmar Kountry Star DP with a side radiator.

The lower radiator plastic shield was broken and missing when we purchased the MH. Didn't realize the issue until I saw a similar model with the lower radiator shield intact. Always wondered why it was open to the elements and road debris.

Ordered a new one from Newmar and it must be a generic one size fits all...almost.

99.9% sure there is some cutting of this plastic replacement but would like to ask the experts before I waste $142.00. My instincts tell me to cut off the upper right end due to obstructions at that end.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom

[Buly]

Tom,
I caught mine before departed the coach. The whole thing is paper thin and will keep breaking. What I did, is clean it with degreaser, roughed up the cracked and broken areas and laid fiberglass cloth saturated with West Epoxy.
Thinking back, I should have fiberglassed the whole inside of the plastic.
Also the bottom part is attached with double sided tape to the radiator shield. I bought a HD 3M double sided tape from HD for that. So far no problems?
You should trim to fit yours. They are sold rough cut for installer to fit.

[Ricci]

Hi Tom - Back about a year ago there was a discussion on this topic and one of the best fixes was also fairly simple. A run to Lowe's and the purchase three 3/4 inch Unistrut pipe clamps (Superstrut Catalogue #Z703 3/4EG) and some fender washers and lock nuts. This was the answer for making sure the guard didn't depart the coach again. I wish I could quote you who posted this but maybe they will come forward. In the meantime you can benefit from their efforts.


Tom

[ftharrisiii]

Tom,

I had a similar issue with the radiator shroud last summer, but fortunately caught and fixed the problem before the radiator shroud fell off.

Here are a few threads on the issue from 2 summers ago (2017) that may have some useful information for you.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/what...ed-365963.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/2017...en-344428.html

TH

[Ricci]

Hi - (so many Tom's on this one). The second URL that ftharrisiii gave is the one I was remembering, at post 36. Great work.


Tom

[ftharrisiii]

You always remember the posts you have first hand experience with!

TH

[Dutch Star Don]

Yes, that upper right rear edge will need some trimming to fit around the components at the back. Do small cuts until you get the fit. Newmar attaches it with a couple of screws and then uses two side tape on the large flat area, that fits up against the bottom of the radiator, which is a poor attachment method.

On my new coach, I drilled through the plastic bottom, near the metal lip of the radiator. I took a flat flasher, bent one edge in a vice and used the flat washer, with a bolt to attach the plastic to the bottom. The flat washer catches the edge of the metal lip and goes through the plastic.

[handstjg]

To all,
Thanks for the great information and fixes. Finished it yesterday but after reading and looking at the pics I'm concerned that my fix at the rear may not suffice. Seems the weak link is at the rear. I attached a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/2" wide aluminum strap to the frame and stainless steel 1/4-20 bolts. I now believe that had I bent the strap to go under the bottom of the plastic it would take longer for the plastic to break. I'll redo that today after installing the double back tape.

The double back tape answers the question I had about the bottom fastening. I'll also add a strap to the front and will update with some pictures.

I also added washers to the top 3 bolts, IMHO washers take strain off the plastic as the fastener is tightened. I could be all wet but it's worth the nine (9) cents.

Thanks again,
Tom

[Dutch Star Don]

Here is what I meant by adding the washers. This photo is looking down inside along the radiator with the side vented panel open and out of the way. The two sided tape will quickly fail.

[jerry davis]

I realize this is a really simplistic fix but it has worked for me for a year and a half and over 20k Miles. I cleaned the area with alcohol and then put a strip of Gorilla Tape down. After a year it was still solid but I added another layer just to make sure a couple months ago.

[ftharrisiii]

I didn't trust an adhesive only solution so I supplemented the double sided tape with 3/4" Unistrut pipe clamp supports (Superstrut Cat No:Z703 3/4EG available at Lowes for $1.74). The Unistrut supports have the same offset as the radiator base frame. I installed 3 along the length of the radiator base and secured with a bolt, fender washer and locknut. No issues since I completed the mod. See photos.

[handstjg]

Originally Posted by ftharrisiii

I didn't trust an adhesive only solution so I supplemented the double sided tape with 3/4" Unistrut pipe clamp supports (Superstrut Cat No:Z703 3/4EG available at Lowes for $1.74). The Unistrut supports have the same offset as the radiator base frame. I installed 3 along the length of the radiator base and secured with a bolt, fender washer and locknut. No issues since I completed the mod. See photos.

These are all great ideas/mods to the original design. We live in the AZ desert and plastic in this heat won't last long.

I like this idea for supporting the middle utilizing strut straps....I used two 1" widths for a total of 2" wide double sided tape. I fabricated 2 supports from 1/8" x 1 1/2" flat aluminum stock. These should take care of both ends.

[handstjg]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Here is what I meant by adding the washers. This photo is looking down inside along the radiator with the side vented panel open and out of the way. The two sided tape will quickly fail.

Attachment 232543

Don,
You mentioned with the "side vented panel open and out of the way".

For my side vented panel I loosened the two (2) bottom screws and it gave me enough room to work. The top had multiple screws coming from above the top of the panel and didn't look removable...

Is there a piano hinge that would allow it to open up?

Thanks,
Tom

[handstjg]

Thanks again for everyone's help. Two more steps and I'm done...until the next time it breaks...

First the one size fits all is incorrect, the new one they sent is not long enough and not deep enough for my application. My first step is to come up with something to cover the rest of the radiator fins. Probably an aluminum angle mounted to the shroud.

Thanks to Dutch Star Don my life got easier for my next one. It never made sense why the vent wouldn't open. I stopped long ago with the old adage if it doesn't fit get a bigger hammer. The first two pics are of the lonely screw that was hidden near the top on the right hand side under a fin. This prevented the vent from opening...

The original design would have you slide the bottom into the slot that was installed on the bottom of the radiator. The shroud was not deep enough to reach. So as stated before I installed 2 1" strips of double back tape and secured the ends.

In investigating the use of bolts and washers or strut straps my radiator is too deep into the shroud to make it work.

So I opted for the fender washers driven into the slot at the bottom radiator leaving enough to support the middle of the shroud.

I believe with the double back tape caused enough pressure that the fender washers should stay, had to drive them in with a hammer and punch. To be extra sure I'm installing some gorilla tape (as suggested above) to cover the washers and secure them in their position.

Thanks once again for all the great suggestions and fixes...couldn't have done it without all your help.

Tom