Sinkmiser? Neal, what do you think???

[C.Martin]

SKB001 = SINKMI$ER Brushed Nickel – Aqua View, Inc.

So...we walked thru a bunch of coaches at the Tampa SuperShow. They have a new gizmo installed called the Sinkmiser. It’s basically a diverter valve which has a return line plumbed to the freshwater tank. It allows you to run the cold water out of your lines...back into the freshwater tank as opposed to letting it go into the grey tank as waste water. This method conserves fresh water, as well as grey tank space. The bypassed water goes by a temperature sensitive viewing window. If the water is cold...the “Magic mushroom”, as it’s called, is BLUE...when the water passing by it becomes warm...the “Magic mushroom” turns GREY. Once that happens, you simply twist the diverter knob and your shower begins!

Neal trailblazed an excellent thread to upgrade the shower mixer in Ventanas to a Moen...which has made a huge difference in temperature stability.

Neal, do you think this sinkmiser System would be a doable upgrade to our Ventanas based on what you remember from having the waterlines in hand...or is it too tight a workspace to make happen? I wonder if it’s possible to route a return line back to the freshwater tank as well?

For dry camping...this could make a world of difference for campers that take combat showers every morning. The savings could stretch the number of days you could stay in a sweet camping location. I don’t mind taking a short shower...but I don’t like to take a cold shower.

[Canuck53]

Currently being installed in 2018 DS and maybe Ventana in the shower only. They do make a sink version.

[willipaul]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

SKB001 = SINKMI$ER Brushed Nickel – Aqua View, Inc.

So...we walked thru a bunch of coaches at the Tampa SuperShow. They have a new gizmo installed called the Sinkmiser. It’s basically a diverter valve which has a return line plumbed to the freshwater tank. It allows you to run the cold water out of your lines...back into the freshwater tank as opposed to letting it go into the grey tank as waste water. This method conserves fresh water, as well as grey tank space. The bypassed water goes by a temperature sensitive viewing window. If the water is cold...the “Magic mushroom”, as it’s called, is BLUE...when the water passing by it becomes warm...the “Magic mushroom” turns GREY. Once that happens, you simply twist the diverter knob and your shower begins!

Neal trailblazed an excellent thread to upgrade the shower mixer in Ventanas to a Moen...which has made a huge difference in temperature stability.

Neal, do you think this sinkmiser System would be a doable upgrade to our Ventanas based on what you remember from having the waterlines in hand...or is it too tight a workspace to make happen? I wonder if it’s possible to route a return line back to the freshwater tank as well?

For dry camping...this could make a world of difference for campers that take combat showers every morning. The savings could stretch the number of days you could stay in a sweet camping location. I don’t mind taking a short shower...but I don’t like to take a cold shower.

i have this in my DS...it is standard on the showers in the DS for 2018....it is a nice feature....not sure how you'd get the line back to the fresh tank easily on a retro fit....i'm sure it could be done, but it would most likely be a challenge...

also, when i winterized, i figured i better get pink into that line just in case...so i had to get some pink into the fresh tank....which is unfortunate...

[Starmaster]

We have a Ventana 4037, same as NealC, only ours is a 2015. I too did the shower valve replacement. The water lines were sized very tight making the replacement a bit of a pain. There was really no usable slack in them to speak of.

In the 4037 floor plan, the shower valve is in the corner of a wall in the bedroom. This wall is where the FWS ends. That backs up to a closet that sits on top of the dresser drawers in the FWS. To get working space, an access panel opening would need to be cut in the back of shower wall. That cutout/access panel would show when the FWS was out. Even then, work space would be very cramped.

Once the hurdle of getting the valve installed is cleared (not trivial) there would have to be a return water line routed through the engine compartment to the freshwater tank. Next, a connection would need to be spin welded to the fresh water tank to connect the return line.

I think it would be a great mod to have but IMHO from a practical standpoint I don’t believe it would be worth the trouble. Other Ventana floor plans might be easier depending on the location of the shower/valve. Neal, did I miss any thing?

Dave

[C.Martin]

Yeah...I figured it would be a “pipe dream”, ( plumbing pun)...

The two biggest hurdles being running the return line....and devising a pipe layout that would be very much like building a “Ship in a Bottle”...

It’s not so important to me that I would rip the mirror off the wall in the bedroom to get at it.

Just seeing if cumulative heads put together could find a Eureka moment.

[JNSNWT]

Instead of spin welding another fitting onto the F.W. tank could you place a TEE fitting in the fill line from city water ?

[NealC]

Sorry, hadn't seen this as I was packing my RV for a 6 month trip it seems, although it's a 1 month trip! I cannot pack light!!!!

So I read this, maybe it's something Newmar could do. I suggest asking Alvin for an estimate and see what they offer. To them removing a shower wall may be doable but not to me, assuming that may be required. While I like the concept I don't know how much water you really save in the process. I'll guess at 1/2 gallon?

I wouldn't use this on a sink, again, not much water saved, but a shower especially with the Moen maybe. I changed my sink in the bathroom so I have a better/higher flow than the crapware installed with the coach. So like the Moen it does pass a bit more water but who says you have to turn it all the way on?

If it were me this one would be done by Newmar. They are reasonable as you know. If this is important to your boondocking then see what they can offer.

[C.Martin]

It’s that diy in me that keeps looking for trouble...

Well..I’ll put the boogey lights on my living room slide for now.

I think the recessed shelf could probably be popped out to do the plumbing without removing a wall...it’s really just a matter of figuring the best way to run a return line.

Yeah...Sinkmiser is just what the manufacturer calls this thing. I wouldn’t put it on a sink either. We try to keep Dish washing curtailed when dry camping...and I don’t care if my dirty dishes take a cold shower...it’s the Campers that hate cold showers.

Have a great trip!

[NealC]

Thanks. The boogey lights are great. I’d like to get them on both sides. I got the “super” controller and Bluetooth. Two controllers one for each side would probably be best. The lights seem very high quality though. I sent the carefree ones back.

[NealC]

I think running pex would be easier than any of your electrical work you’ve done. I don’t think I’m helping [emoji848]

[Starmaster]

Originally Posted by JNSNWT

Instead of spin welding another fitting onto the F.W. tank could you place a TEE fitting in the fill line from city water ?

I don’t know what the routing/access of the fill line is, but it seems like a much better idea than my suggestion of spin welding a new connection/hole in the FW tank.

Dave

[willipaul]

Originally Posted by JNSNWT

Instead of spin welding another fitting onto the F.W. tank could you place a TEE fitting in the fill line from city water ?

i think that is the way they do it now...

emphasize "think"......