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Old 05-30-2016, 06:17 PM   #1
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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Slide Motor Bolts

I was reading through one of the Forums on here and someone mentioned checking their slide motor bolts (couldn't find the post again). I decided it would be a good time to check with 2 years and 20K miles. I found that the two motors on the FWS, both had loose bolts. There are four 9/16" bolts per motor and I could spin the lock washer on each bolt......a couple were more than two full turns loose.

I found the same thing on the kitchen slide motor.

Once tightened, it didn't change anything while extending or retracting, but it did reduce the increased movement (slide rattling while driving) that seemed to be getting worse lately.

It only takes a few minutes to check and the two lower bolts are easily accessed with a box end wrench, but the upper two are easier to tighten with a ratchet and socket.
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:21 PM   #2
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This may be he thread you were referring to.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/slid...re-291106.html
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:33 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I was reading through one of the Forums on here and someone mentioned checking their slide motor bolts (couldn't find the post again). I decided it would be a good time to check with 2 years and 20K miles. I found that the two motors on the FWS, both had loose bolts. There are four 9/16" bolts per motor and I could spin the lock washer on each bolt......a couple were more than two full turns loose.

I found the same thing on the kitchen slide motor.

Once tightened, it didn't change anything while extending or retracting, but it did reduce the increased movement (slide rattling while driving) that seemed to be getting worse lately.

It only takes a few minutes to check and the two lower bolts are easily accessed with a box end wrench, but the upper two are easier to tighten with a ratchet and socket.
I think I'm going to wire tie mine. Pull one out get 16 with drilled heads and aircraft wire. Should solve the problem.

I can't figure out why they don't come that way from Newmar.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:04 AM   #4
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I would try a drop of Loctite first before wire tying. Just a thought.
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:11 AM   #5
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May be a more common problem than any of us realize. Who would think to check this? I have a friend with a DS that came with loose lag bolts and resultant loose chains on a NEW coach!

BTW...Loctite won't help much on a lag bolt into wood.
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:14 PM   #6
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I used blue Loctite on all the bolts. The passenger & driver front and bedroom slide motors were easily accessed. The Vanity slide mechanism is in a compartment accessed above the drive wheel tires. I used the leveling jacks to raise the rear & right side of the coach and could just barely squeeze in. The compartment is foamed and sealed so after tightening the bolts (they were only a little loose) I had to re-foam and seal the compartment. Hopefully never again.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:43 PM   #7
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I read that same something about checking the motor bolts. I had my big slide shaft and supports replaced in the last couple years after we installed a new floor. I learned another thing about my coach. The driver side, front slide has part of the shaft and hardware exposed to the elements since it goes through the propane bay which is open at the bottom. What a rust job!

Anyway...more on topic...

Over the last couple months we could hear it start clinking just a tad. Yesterday I also decided to check the motor bolts along with every bolt associated with the big slide. I did find all the bolts were a bit loose so after tightening them down, the clunk has gone away. However, during the process I discovered a nut that had come undone.

I'm assuming it is an adjustment for slide height. I apologize it is a tad blurry but you can see the silver area below the bracket where the nut had worked its way down to before I tightened it up. Just something else to check while you are at it.



Let me know if you don't see the picture...I'm trying something out. I'm also attaching the photo in case it isn't visible.
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Old 05-31-2016, 03:22 PM   #8
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Hawgguy, If you used Blue, I am assuming you have bolts attached to metal in your application? How does Entegra attach their drive motors?...and to what? It seems like my old Travel Supreme did attach to a structural member, but just can't remember, specifically.
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:04 PM   #9
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I have no issue with how the drive motors are attached. They're using a welded metal plate with four holes as the support, then use four bolts to secure the motor to the plate. I'll check them again in six months and see if they move, will probably paint a stripe on a few to easily verify they're staying tight.

It was nice to get that noise (slide moving around) out of the FWS slide that was slowly getting louder.
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:31 PM   #10
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Keep them tight or:
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:38 PM   #11
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Don ... thanks for reminder. I know what I am doing this weekend! JohnT's picture is all the motivation I need.

Steve
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:01 AM   #12
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Hawgguy, If you used Blue, I am assuming you have bolts attached to metal in your application? How does Entegra attach their drive motors?...and to what?
Probably same as your old Travel Supreme. Mounting bracket attached to frame and four bolts attaching the motor to the bracket.
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I would try a drop of Loctite first before wire tying. Just a thought.
My issue with Blue Loctite is sometime it becomes hard to break loose and has a point as to how much it can sustain over Red which requires heat to remove. Where wire is as tight as the Red Loctite and it is easily removed.

I think there are two things that could be done.

One: I didn't see one Torque Wrench of any kind used on the production line. So I think those bolts at a minimum should be torqued to their proper number. I asked my tech last week what that number was and the answer was tight. Not the correct answer. I was a bit concerned with the answer that I got from one of the other techs when I asked why not wire tie the bolts in production. His answer was that the motor sometime twists a bit between the backing plate and it's bracket. Really? Isn't that what the bolts are supposed to prevent? Doesn't some twist lead to more twist which means looser bolts? If the bolts were properly torqued and then wire tied there would be no loose bolts thus no movement period. Not sure I understand the thinking here.

Two: Once the drilled aircraft bolts are Torqued to their proper ft/lbs. Wire tie them just like an airplane engine and you are done. The advantage over Loctite to me is that they can be removed and re-tightened without any cleaning to remove old Loctite.
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:21 PM   #14
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I can fully appreciate the use of lockwire to secure the bolts and prevent them from backing out. However, after just checking all my electric motor mounts, and finding a few not as tight as I would like... I think trying to lockwire or safety wire those bolts would be quite difficult, especially the upper ones. Not much space there to work, just getting the tools on those upper nuts was hard... not to mention trying to thread wire thru the little hole on the aircraft style nuts.
I am going to keep an eye on these pesky bolts, and see if there is any number of slide cycles that cause them to loosen, then re-think the idea... locktight vs safety wire.
But, if you have not checked these yet, do your self a favor and "get r dun". You will save yourself much headache in the future.
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