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Old 03-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #1
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Slide Motor issue

So... My slide motor decided it no longer wished to be attached to the backing plate (see pictures).

I made a temporary fix to get me through the next few months but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem. From what I can tell there is nothing to tell the motor to stop short me removing my finger from the toggle switch. The motor will happily run the slide each way and keep trying to push it even when fully in or out. I have read a number of other treads that suggest the motor should shut off when the slide reaches the end of its cycle but that does not seem to happen with mine, and I would hate to replace the motor only to have this happen again due to another issue.

Thanks,
Shaun
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:39 AM   #2
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Shaun,

Sorry to hear about your problems, they sound similar to the problems I had in the thread I started about Slide/Lock Arm problems. A good place to start is to understand how the "controller" works, Perry White has a link in one of his replies on how the controller works. Basically 12 volts run to the controller, your slide switch tells the controller to send voltage to the slide motor, when the controllers detects a spike in amperage supplied to the motor it shuts the current off. The controller is located on the rail at the back of the bay, if there are two controllers back there you can try switching the wiring harness between the controllers and see if there is any difference, this would indicate whether you controller is bad or not. There is also an adjustment on the controller (see controller manual inPerry's link) to adjust how much amperage the controller has to "see" before it shuts current to the slide motor. There is also a "torque bushing" (seen in your last picture) that needs to be tightened to 150lbs or torque, this is a inch and half nut. By reading the responses and studying the controller manual I "learned" a lot about how the slide operates. Outside of the controller issue or a torque bushing issue, I can't think of anything else to check. I will say that if you are only holding the motor to the mounting plate with three bolts, this MIGHT have an effect on how much the "amperage" the controller "sees",

My problem "mysteriously" corrected itself.

PS. I never was able to see the amperage adjustment knob well enough to tell how it is adjusted, to me it looked like there was a center adjustment with an outer adjustment ring and don't know if they adjust independantly or not. The controller manual says you could adjust the volumn of the speaker, amp draw of the lock arm motors and amp draw of the slide motor and I was never able to see where all three of these adjustments were.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:14 AM   #3
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The low torque of the motor will snap off bolts that hold it or damage the slided finished fascia inside.
When the slide reaches this point the control board will have a higher current draw and is suppose to shut off power to motor.
Your motor is also exposed to the road elements and during the winter months maybe salt roads so bolts will have no protection unless lubed or sprayed with a protectorate.
Some of the motor homes have their motors inside the lower storage compartments so they are protected.
The control boards have a pot adjustment on them to adjust the operation of slide when it gets to the limits of slide box and the motor will react to this adjustment.
In Quick Tips & Mods 1 & 2 there are links for slide operations and different slide control units and also where to get them.
Some of the motor controls you will find.
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:11 PM   #4
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So if I am reading the documents rights it looks like someone at some point most have turned the pot a little to far. The fun part is it did not break the bolts it pulled the castings off the case.

Any trick to pulling the transmission off the shaft, so I can fix it it the right way?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";1122676]The low torque of the motor will snap off bolts that hold it or damage the slided finished fascia inside.
When the slide reaches this point the control board will have a higher current draw and is suppose to shut off power to motor.
Your motor is also exposed to the road elements and during the winter months maybe salt roads so bolts will have no protection unless lubed or sprayed with a protectorate.
Some of the motor homes have their motors inside the lower storage compartments so they are protected.
The control boards have a pot adjustment on them to adjust the operation of slide when it gets to the limits of slide box and the motor will react to this adjustment.
In [B][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/original-part-1-and-2-quick-tips-and-easy-mods-18509.html
Quick Tips & Mods 1 & 2[/URL][/B] there are links for slide operations and different slide control units and also where to get them.
Some of the motor controls you will find.
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Old 03-23-2012, 05:05 PM   #5
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If you look at the Newmar Slide Spec you will find a TRANTORQUE BUSHING next to motor that should release the motor and gear housing off shaft.
If the gear casing is OK you may need only new bolts to redo the motor to gear housing.
There are different slide setups but they will all have a bushing near the motor.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:14 PM   #6
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And a little tip on working with those TransTorque bushings:

A pair of 1 1/2 in crows foot is the best tool.... A pair of open end wrenches are very hard to get enough leverage on to hit the 150ftlb mark.

To release these torque bushing nuts first just barely crack open this nut. Then to unscrew it gently tap the nut with a hammer while turning the nut. This frees the nut from the compressed splines. Otherwise forcing the nut off will crack the splines making for a complete rod replacement.
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:59 PM   #7
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Shaun, I just went through the same repair on a neighbors coach in Southern Cal. I would not be in a hurry to replace the motor assembly, simply check to make sure the gear case where the mount tabs broke off is weather proof, and keep using it. Your repair is probably stronger than the original.
PS. Very, Very nice work.
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