iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
We had to pack it up and leave for the weekend, so I won't get to it again until next Saturday. We are leaving on a trip on Sunday, so I hope I can get it fixed before then. Otherwise, I suppose I will just have to live with it for this trip.
There are some connections at the midway point between the cogs. One of them will fit the 1 1/2" wrench, so that must be a second coupler. I will give that a try.
The first coupler was pretty darn hard to get loose. I tried to put it back together before we left, but I could only get the wrench to move about 1/2 turn. Does this mean the coupler is still apart? The motor was engaged and the slide moved anyway.
I really appreciate the help. It is pretty frustrating to do something so stupid when everything else was going so well.
Joe
It makes sense that there is a 2nd torque coupler. If an 1 1/2" end wrench fits it, it is almost certain to be another torque coupler.
The first time I had to break mine apart, I had to put a cheater on the end wrench, which is 22-24 inches long. I also put a 24" pipe wrench on the other side of it, because I was putting enough force on the wrench that I turned the whole shaft, moving the slide. For the one you did get loose, if it tightened up on you, it is probably good.
Suggestion that might work for you.
After the 2nd time we opened the slide with the lock in place, (actually someone else*), even though we have a recording telling you to check the locks, we added a additional safeguard, which has kept us from doing it again. We used a length of painters tape, wrote on it, "check locks" Anytime the slide is closed, that piece of tape goes over the rocker switch. Before it is opened again, the tape is there as a reminder. When the locks are checked, the tape is moved to a point just below the switch, and the slide is opened. When it is closed, the piece of tape is there to put back on the switch. I, DW, and grand daughters who travel with us a lot, all know how to and do use it. Works for us.
*(the person who did it the 2nd time was DW's cousin and husband, who worked as tranport drivers for new motorhomes. the extent of their knowledge was to get in the drivers seat, start it up, push the pedel to the floorboard, and try to keep it on the road.)
__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22 with Koni FSD
Banks Headers, 503 CID
That's funny- my wife just suggested that we hang a note over the switch, exactly what you did.
How does the coupler work? Is it on friction or are there teeth that need to mesh? When I tightened the coupler back down I didn't have to move it very far. Is that because it didn't need more, or that I didn't try hard enough? Could there be teeth that aren't aligned?
Thanks.
-Joe
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkmesser
It makes sense that there is a 2nd torque coupler. If an 1 1/2" end wrench fits it, it is almost certain to be another torque coupler.
The first time I had to break mine apart, I had to put a cheater on the end wrench, which is 22-24 inches long. I also put a 24" pipe wrench on the other side of it, because I was putting enough force on the wrench that I turned the whole shaft, moving the slide. For the one you did get loose, if it tightened up on you, it is probably good.
Suggestion that might work for you.
After the 2nd time we opened the slide with the lock in place, (actually someone else*), even though we have a recording telling you to check the locks, we added a additional safeguard, which has kept us from doing it again. We used a length of painters tape, wrote on it, "check locks" Anytime the slide is closed, that piece of tape goes over the rocker switch. Before it is opened again, the tape is there as a reminder. When the locks are checked, the tape is moved to a point just below the switch, and the slide is opened. When it is closed, the piece of tape is there to put back on the switch. I, DW, and grand daughters who travel with us a lot, all know how to and do use it. Works for us.
*(the person who did it the 2nd time was DW's cousin and husband, who worked as tranport drivers for new motorhomes. the extent of their knowledge was to get in the drivers seat, start it up, push the pedel to the floorboard, and try to keep it on the road.)
__________________
Joe and Anita
2001 Damon Ultrasport
2010 Chevy Equinox
That's funny- my wife just suggested that we hang a note over the switch, exactly what you did.
How does the coupler work? Is it on friction or are there teeth that need to mesh? When I tightened the coupler back down I didn't have to move it very far. Is that because it didn't need more, or that I didn't try hard enough? Could there be teeth that aren't aligned?
Thanks.
-Joe
I haven't taken one completely apart to know for sure, but based on how it feels with the wrench, I suspect that it is a friction coupling. As you don't think you got the one you loosened back as tight as it was originally, I suggest when you go on your trip, to put a wrench on it every day or so. (It has been 5 years since we had the issue, but I don't think that it retightened quite as much as I loosened it either).
__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22 with Koni FSD
Banks Headers, 503 CID
That document doesn't directly address my slide. They describe either a two motor system (which I don't have), or a center motor system. I have a single motor, but it is located at the end.
I think there is another coupling in the middle, but I won't know for sure until I get a chance to look at it again.
-Joe
Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";931293]Section C pg-2 of [B][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/external-link/?external_page=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mo-fl.com%2FSlideout%2Ffull_Standard_slide_room_infor mation.pdf
this PDF[/URL][/B] explains how to adjust slide with 1 motor or 2 motor slide.
You should read this before attempting to adjust slide.
__________________
Joe and Anita
2001 Damon Ultrasport
2010 Chevy Equinox
Success! I found the middle coupling, and using a wrench and a cheater bar, it came loose fairly easily. Then it was just a matter of pushing on the one side to make them match. Tighten the coupling back up and it was ready to go.
I found a .pdf of the instructions specific to my slide. I've also included a couple of pictures of the couplings. There is one near the motor, and another one at the center of the slide. It was the center coupling I needed to loosen.
Thanks for all the help.
-Joe
__________________
Joe and Anita
2001 Damon Ultrasport
2010 Chevy Equinox
Glad you got a fix! Looking at your photo of the motor and (gearbox?), my suggestion to use a ratchet to manually move the slide end near the motor was probably inappropiate. It doesn't look like your's has that capability. It does make it possable for one person to move the slide w/o major effort, and you can get fine adjustment that way.
__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22 with Koni FSD
Banks Headers, 503 CID