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11-05-2018, 07:07 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryKD
Hi Rookie RVer,
If you had a Newmar coach I could tell you how to do what you need. Don't know how Thor builds slides.
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Hi Gary, I have a 2006 Newmar Dutch Star with a couple of slides that are not plum. Any info you have on getting them vertically aligned would be great.
Thanks,
Jim
__________________
Jim and Jana
Dutch Star 4026
Eureka Springs, AR
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11-05-2018, 08:47 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, Florida
Posts: 13,599
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Hi Goldcar,
For vertical alignment look under the slide. There are two screw type posts. One will need to raise or lower these posts to raise or lower the slide. This adjustment is more difficult to do than the in/out adjustment with the transtorque bushing. Adjust in small increments.
__________________
Gary
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910 + GMC ENVOY XUV 37K lbs Moving Down The Road
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
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12-14-2018, 12:13 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Georgetown Ky
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryKD
Hi scottn83,
You will need to loosen (not take apart) the transtorque bushing. A 1 1/16" crows foot is needed. Once loose you should be able to move one side of the slide. Either bring the front out or the back in.
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Thanks for the input Mine happen to be an 1 1/2 crows foot
__________________
1996 Newmar Dutch Star
Chevy P30 Chassis with a 454ci Motor
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12-14-2018, 06:48 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: OTR Western US
Posts: 304
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On my curb side bedroom slide, when the slide is in, the top edges are in likely held tight by the lock arms. However, the bottom edges are not in evenly, with the "forward" edge mashed in beyond flush, and the edge to the "rear" flush with the exterior.
When the slide is out the top isn't out as far as the bottom thus not sealing.
Took it to a repair shop and they adjusted the nuts on the threaded rod "out" resulting in the bottom "rear" part of the slide to mash in beyond flush like the bottom "forward" I mentioned. The great part is that extra pressure inside resulted in a broken/mashed pull handle to one of my drawers that pushes against the bed frame. I moved both nuts "in" and now the bottom "rear" is flush again with the exterior.
So my quandary, in none of the discussions, is there a mention of the value of adjusting these nuts over the trans-torque or slide height bolt adjustment.
Can anyone clarify when the movement of the double nuts over trans-torque adjustment is more appropriate? I have noticed the threaded rod which is to the "rear" of the slide tube induces torque so guessing the trans-torque and nut adjustment, play together.
Thanks
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12-15-2018, 06:44 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 848
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The threaded rods with the double nuts are travel limiters. They let the slide know when to stop moving in or out...nothing else. When the slide controller senses the increased resistance it tells the motor to stop trying to move the slide further in or out.
Loosening the trans torque bushing frees the slide to equalize the distance at each end from the wall of the motorhome, but the motor does not know when to stop, the threaded rods are there for that purpose.
In my opinion whoever adjusted the lock nuts without first getting the slide equalized side to side didn't know what they were doing. Newmar has several PDF's on adjusting slides with pictures and descriptions. Call Newmar and they will send you one that applies to your coach.
In your case I would start be loosening the transtorque bushing and getting the side to side measurements equal. Both ends should go in the same amount if it is adjusted equally.
Then operate the slide carefully and see if it stops where it should when closed...adjust the nuts to make it stop in the right place. Do the same for the extension stop nuts so it stops correctly when the seal on the inside presses against the inside wall. The outside slide should be flush when closed, nothing should be mashed.
Be careful, if the stop nuts are incorrectly set you can damage things. There is a lot of torque in the motor .
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12-15-2018, 08:32 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: OTR Western US
Posts: 304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polyian
The threaded rods with the double nuts are travel limiters. They let the slide know when to stop moving in or out...nothing else. When the slide controller senses the increased resistance it tells the motor to stop trying to move the slide further in or out.
Loosening the trans torque bushing frees the slide to equalize the distance at each end from the wall of the motorhome, but the motor does not know when to stop, the threaded rods are there for that purpose.
In my opinion whoever adjusted the lock nuts without first getting the slide equalized side to side didn't know what they were doing. Newmar has several PDF's on adjusting slides with pictures and descriptions. Call Newmar and they will send you one that applies to your coach.
In your case I would start be loosening the transtorque bushing and getting the side to side measurements equal. Both ends should go in the same amount if it is adjusted equally.
Then operate the slide carefully and see if it stops where it should when closed...adjust the nuts to make it stop in the right place. Do the same for the extension stop nuts so it stops correctly when the seal on the inside presses against the inside wall. The outside slide should be flush when closed, nothing should be mashed.
Be careful, if the stop nuts are incorrectly set you can damage things. There is a lot of torque in the motor .
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Great information.
A follow-on. The original issue was this particular slide wouldn't seal on the top edge when in the "open" position. When I watch the slide come in, the bottom initiates and starts to move before the top frees itself and starts to move in. As it travels in I can grab the top edge and pull it inward telling me all the power to move the slide resides at the bottom of the slide (single point of torque). Now I haven't located the vertical adjustment bolts under the slide, but it would seem to need if I moved them in toward the bottom of the slide, to allow the top edge to tip in, would that likely allow the top edge to seal better on the inside when it is in the "out" position?
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12-15-2018, 09:52 AM
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#21
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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Post #16 by Gary should adjust your top of slide to be flush when closed.
The post by Polyian is a good explanation of other adjustments for slide, do not try to use them for same adjustment of your slide they are separate adjustments of your slide not one of the same adjustment.
Also adjustments of limit rods need to be minimal adjustments or damage can result to slide fascia or brackets rods travel through or mounted to.
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12-15-2018, 06:46 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: OTR Western US
Posts: 304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007"
Post #16 by Gary should adjust your top of slide to be flush when closed.
The post by Polyian is a good explanation of other adjustments for slide, do not try to use them for same adjustment of your slide they are separate adjustments of your slide not one of the same adjustment.
Also adjustments of limit rods need to be minimal adjustments or damage can result to slide fascia or brackets rods travel through or mounted to.
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Thanks so much 007, but this is still not clear. There are no adjustment bolts for vertical alignment on the rear curb slide on my rig, just the single trans torque nut, or the limiting nuts on the threaded rod.
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12-16-2018, 06:16 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: No home base "anywhere we park"
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkK
Thanks so much 007, but this is still not clear. There are no adjustment bolts for vertical alignment on the rear curb slide on my rig, just the single trans torque nut, or the limiting nuts on the threaded rod.
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Mark, on our 2002 MADP bedroom slide there are 3 rollers for slide travel. One at the foot of the bed that travels with the slide, and 2 fixed rollers on the raised platform near the head of the bed. The slide room simply glides over the fixed rollers. We had a dropped fixed roller that allowed the room to be lower on that end. The floor had given out. I needed to re support the floor for the fixed roller in order to have the slide box fit properly in the wall. You are correct in that the only adjustments are the trans torque and the stop rod.
__________________
Steve Richard and Ann Glaude
Shelby (poodle parti merle)
2002 MADP 3954 Cummins ISL 370 2003 Honda Pilot
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12-16-2018, 06:50 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: OTR Western US
Posts: 304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveR161
Mark, on our 2002 MADP bedroom slide there are 3 rollers for slide travel. One at the foot of the bed that travels with the slide, and 2 fixed rollers on the raised platform near the head of the bed. The slide room simply glides over the fixed rollers. We had a dropped fixed roller that allowed the room to be lower on that end. The floor had given out. I needed to re support the floor for the fixed roller in order to have the slide box fit properly in the wall. You are correct in that the only adjustments are the trans torque and the stop rod.
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Thank you Steve for the confirmation.
Now to find a 1 1/2" claw foot...😁
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10-08-2020, 04:29 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 11
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GaryKD,
Are there really vertical adjustment screws on the Newmar bedroom slides? If so can you post a picture or explain how to find them?
Thanks,
Jerry
__________________
Jerry & Jan M. - Scottsdale, AZ
2008 Newmar Ventana VTDP3332
350 HP Cummins ISB, 6-Speed Allison Transmission
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