Slide Out Controller Source

[A6IntruderBN]

Howdy folks,

It appears that I have just "burned out" a second slide out controller on my 2009 Ventana and I am looking for a source besides Newmar and Intellitec.

The info on the box is: Motor Control w/ Voice Output 10A-35A 00-00971-100 by Intellitec.

Thanks,
Norm

P.S. If there is any interest in a side note..... I think the controller's undoing was...

We were parked slightly nose down with a beautiful view of Kerr Lake from the front window. (No leveling jack out because I am sure it would have lifted front wheels off the ground). I went to register site and when I got back the news was not good.

She tried to put the driver's side front slide (biggest slide) out to access pantry cabinets. She had the slide 1/2 way out then decided to check clearance. Then when trying to completely extend she had no movement and an "Errrr-Errrr" sound. Luckily when she tried to retract it did. Then she tried to extend again and nothing happened (luckily or we might still be enjoying the view there .

When we finally got home and leveled that slide would still not extend. I switched the cables from the front controller to the aft controller (co-located) and things worked fine. So I looking for a new controller.

I had heard a rumor never try to extend slides without leveling and I think I just validated that rumor.

[Iron Man]

There is no hard fast rule about being level or having jacks down before extending slides. I would think about the situation if the motorhome was racked or "twisted" having the front or back higer than the other would not have any impact on the slides. Have you tried the bad controller again? I have been able to jiggle the connection to get a slide to work.

[DandS]

May not be a hard and fast rule........but, Newmar recommends it. Personally, I would never extend my slides, especially the big front one, without leveling first.

[ottffss]

Given Intellitec makes the controller and these are NOT generic devices, you are not going to find any generic or "white label" replacement. Buying parts AT Newmar is a whole lot cheaper (like often half) the price of a Newmar mail order. Intellitec's contract with Newmar may or may not allow Intellitec to sell direct.

I can not figure out any way "overloading" the controller as you think you did would fry it. These are current limiting devices (as well as proximity switch logic control) that sense high current (as in the slide contacts the wall causes a motor high amperage condition which the controller senses) and shuts off the motor. That's how the slide motor knows when to stop. Me thinks there is something else going on causing this failure.

Here's a slide trick that may make sense to some who drive air ride vehicles. If I am parked where leveling will do some heavy lifting/twisting I'll do the following: Before leveling (still on ride air) open the slides about 6inches - this relieves all pressure/contact with the side wall and puts the full weight of the slide on the rollers on the floor. Then I'll level the rig. Once leveled I'll finish deploying the slides. Same process on bringing them in - while still on jacks bring the slide in all but the last 6inches (again this relieves pressure on side walls and puts all weight on floor rollers). I'll then drop the rig from the jacks. Now the chassis is resting on the suspension limiters (no air in the bags). I'll call this a fair proxy for what would be normal "ride height loading/configuration" and then bring the slides in fully. It would be too complicated to fire up the engine to air up and then turn off to finish bringing in the slides.

The idea here is to do all the jacking motion with the slides disengaged from the side walls and their weight resting on the floor rollers. This leaves lots of wiggle room for the slide/mechanism in the opening as it is not clamped to it. The slide locking is only done under some reasonable normal ride height condition.

So I'll open a can of worms as well. On an air bag vehicle (air bag being the operative term here) jacking the wheels on/off the ground makes absolutely NO difference in safety. WHY? With the air bags deflated (the normal jacked condition) the wheels are supporting NOTHING other than their own weight (and the differential weight). Hence, the air bag deflated wheels offer NO braking capability and NO chassis support. Even if not off the ground the wheels are just sitting there contributing absolutely nothing while jacked.

Aside from the scary appearance of an air bagged vehicle flailing its wheels in mid air, safety is NOT impacted. Again, the wheels aren't doing anything without air in the bags. Of course, dangling wheels may, though unlikely, cause suspension damage (not sure how as the wheels must be dangled to change tires) unless there are missing or poorly adjusted suspension limiters. Although the extra "lever arm" of a fully extended jack seemingly could, under extraordinarily bizarre conditions, conceivably contribute to bending a jack (again the jacks are well within design parameters retracted or extended), so this is another highly unlikely result.

Naturally, under NO condition EVER crawl under a jacked vehicle without additional jack stands in place.

Of course, YMMV!

["007"]

Quick Tips has all the information on controllers and slide locks on slides.

[DBeauchamp]

Have you tried increasing your current limit. Turn the little 'pot' on the controller with a small flat screwdriver about the equivalent of 1/10th of a turn. This will give the motor a little more torque... The new controller you switched in probably had the current limit set a little higher.

[ottffss]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DBeauchamp Have you tried increasing your current limit. ....

You won't hear an "errrrrr...errrrr..." sound (assuming that is a motor sound in the OP) if the current limiter pot is set too low. You will only hear the voice and a click.

As DBeauchamp said, be extremely careful if you play with that pot setting, fractions of a turn ONLY. If set wrong you could either rip the slide out (or in) or otherwise tear up the slide drive mechanism from too much motor torque.

[A6IntruderBN]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ottffss Buying parts AT Newmar is a whole lot cheaper (like often half) the price of a Newmar mail order.

Might be true some of the time BUT....... when I had to replace a condenser fan on the chassis A/C I found out not so. I ordered the fan from Newmar, then found it on the net at a price that made it VERY worthwhile to return the one from Newmar pay their 20% restocking fee and shipping; which is what I did. IDENTICAL items even arrived in IDENTICAL Boxes. I saved about $80 (30%).

I have felt that other parts I have ordered from Newmar have been down right inexpensive/resonable. Ceiling lamp lenses, rocker switch for elect water heater etc.

I pays to shop around...

P.S. a bit kornfuzed about AT Newmar vs Newmar mail order. Could you please expand?

Thanks,
Norm

[A6IntruderBN]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iron Man ...I would think about the situation if the motorhome was racked or "twisted" having the front or back higer than the other would not have any impact on the slides. Have you tried the bad controller again?

Wow..this machines don't seem very ridged to me. Sure they hold there shape inside the designed environment but I would think that any distortion of the frames would cause some serious binding problems on the slide tracks/mechanisms.

You know... I did give the suspect switch a half hearted try when I got home. I do think I will try it again though. Thanks,

Norm

[ottffss]

Quote:

Originally Posted by A6IntruderBN P.S. a bit kornfuzed about AT Newmar vs Newmar mail order. Could you please expand?

If you are physically in Nappanee and buy parts at the parts desk (even if those parts have to be ordered and then shipped to you later) your price on the part itself is a whale of a lot less than if you call/eMail Newmar parts to order the same part.

Of course, and as always, somewhat generic items like fan motors (Evans/Tempcon or otherwise), switches, etc., and the like are definitely worth shopping around for.

[A6IntruderBN]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iron Man ...Have you tried the bad controller again?

OK..just went out and performed a little science project.

Conditions:

• In driveway on jacks all four slides out.
• Driver's Front Slide connected to driver's front slide controller
• Note: Driver's side front has been the only slide with a "Warning Lady"

Hit the IN button on the offending slide (Drivers Front) and warning lady started to talk and slide started to retract!!! I let go after a few inches and tried to extend ... NOTHING no warning lady as in the past and no slide movement or noise. Hit the IN button again warning lady warned and slide retracted all the way. Tried to extend and nothing. No lady...no movement. Slide stayed retracted until

New Conditions:

• Switched Driver's Front slide wires to Drivers Aft controller

Slide works fine in either direction with no Warning Lady

Riddle me this Batman....

Below is a picture of the original controller which was replaced a year ago.

["007"]

If you adjust the control pot your can change the voice speech length.
When you do this you are also increasing the voltage to the motor.
DO NOT over increase more than a 10th of a turn or your asking for damage to slide.
You can find all your slide information in Quick Tips plus links to controllers and slide adjustments.
There is also in link, bottom of spec, info on auto slide locks, if you have them, and button switch has caused problems which is discribed in spec.