Slide topper, drivers side living room.

[patrickemb]

Was out inspecting my coach. Looked up and noticed a problem with my slide topper. The tension doesn't seem to be to tight and I haven't bumped into anything that I know of. Need suggestions on how to fix it and to keep it from happening again. I've never worked with a slide topper before. Do I need to put the slide in to release the tension on it 1st before removing the mounting brackets and making repairs? Thanks

[patrickemb]

I can take more pictures if I need to. Forgot to mention that the other end is like this but not as badly bent.

[Dav L]

Hard to say what I am looking at....
The slide outside skin / flange ...is it supposed to be bent (to the left) like that? Mine is flat with rest of slide vertical surface. One inch to the left of the hexagonal topper shaft.

[patrickemb]

Mine is bent to far inward. It's causing my topper to rub. The screws on the mounting brackets are trying to pull out. I'll go take a couple more pictures.

[patrickemb]

Few more pictures

[Edhildy]

The Slide wall should not be bent like that.

Looks like something has drug on the topper in one of your photos.

is the roller tube locked up? can you unwind anymore cloth from it.

Tension is released by disconnecting the arms hang in tight unwind to release the tension( should be 6 to 10 turns on both ends) .

https://www.thervgeeks.com/repair/me...-slide-topper/

[Bob_C]

Google your brand of topper.....will be videos on how to.......

[patrickemb]

The drag that I think you are referring to is being caused by the slide. It's rubbing on the top edge of the slide wall.

[patrickemb]

I will.

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Google your brand of topper.....will be videos on how to.......

[Dav L]

Ok, those are better pics...looks like it got smacked by getting a bit close to a tree limb.

To fix: I would take the slide topper off. Then, open the slide. Then, place a block of wood against the top flange and smack it straight. Don't do one area all at once. Move back and forth to bring the flange out evenly.

There is a technique called "Dollying". This is where you put a heavy flat plate on the other side of the flange to keep it from bending outwards as you mallet the inside of the flange. I typically will cover the heavy plate / weight with cloth to minimize paint scratching. The plate should be around 10 lbs. ideally. This is what I would recommend for you to do.

Another more advanced technique "Hammer On" is where two smooth face hammers are used in synchronization to hit the bent area very near the exact same time, from opposite sides. By timing the hammer strikes precisely, you can alter which side bend to which direction. You can move the hammer heads apart from each other, and relative to the bend focus point to also change the bend characteristics. I wouldn't try this your first time out though as it takes a fair amount of bad hits (which causes dents) before you get the technique down. But it's very effective when done right. Again, I would drape a smooth cloth / t-shirt over the paint side to minimize scratches.

That flange doesn't take too much effort to get her straight. I had to do mine when I rebuilt the MA.

Then, remove the topper bracket, put it in a vice and straighten that (hammer, or putting a steel bar in the hex opening for leverage etc). The flange is far more bent than the bracket is.

Don't be surprised if the paint cracks as it looks like the flange has been bent a fair amount. I give it 50/50 if it's not cracked already. The good news is the paint cracks will likely be covered or masked by the bracketry.

Per her back together.

[patrickemb]

Was wondering if I needed to beef up the bent portion of my slide with maybe a thin steel or aluminum angle iron. That way you would be using the roof of the slide as well as the wall to help prevent reoccurance. Since it's bent odds are pretty good it will bend in the same place again without putting something to help stop it.

[patrickemb]

Thanks. I'm terrible at taking pictures.

Originally Posted by Dav L

Ok, those are better pics...looks like it got smacked by getting a bit close to a tree limb.

To fix: I would take the slide topper off. Then, open the slide. Then, place a block of wood against the top flange and smack it straight. Don't do one area all at once. Move back and forth to bring the flange out evenly.

Then, remove the topper bracket, put it in a vice and straighten that (hammer, or putting a steel bar in the hex opening for leverage etc).

Don't be surprised if the paint cracks as it looks like the flange has been bent a fair amount. I give it 50/50 if it's not cracked already. The good news is the paint cracks will likely be covered or masked by the bracketry.

Per her back together.

[Dav L]

You shouldn't need to reinforce it. It's plenty strong as long as you don't hit trees with it Adding reinforcement typically would just be getting in the way of the slide closing et al.

[patrickemb]

I might have hit a tree limb but it's strange that the other end is doing the same thing just not as bad. I have only camped at 1 or 2 rv parks that had trees close to the coach and I made sure I was clear when the slide went out. I'm just glad that it hasn't interfered with closing the side tight. Will start working on it Monday.