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Old 05-09-2012, 06:12 PM   #1
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Slide won't go out

I have a 94 Kountry Aire. When I try to extend the slide it goes a few inches, then makes a metallic knocking sound and stops. When I retract the slide, it makes it back in, but will also make the knocking sound. The lockons are released.

Last summer, I tried to extend the slide with one side of the lock still on and it jumped a gear. I loosened both the trans-torque nuts to get the slide aligned again. I didn't feel at the time that I had tightened the nut by the motor enough, so I am hoping that it is just loose even though it has worked fine until now. However, I have tightened the nut as much as I can in both direction and it hasn't helped.

Am I tightening the nut wrong, or is it something else. The knocking sound seems to be coming from near the motor.

-Joel
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:57 PM   #2
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Knocking sound is most likely coming from the Transtorque bushing, like you suspected. That is what mine did before I tightened it up even more. 007 has some links to the slideout manuals, I did a quick search for it but could not find it, hopefully he'll see this post and respond.

Also, the slide should be able to be pushed out by hand while the motor is running, if not you may have another problem.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:00 PM   #3
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I've tried to tighten as much as I can. I will try a cheater bar on it next. Is this held by friction, or are there notches inside that need to be lined up before the two ends will lock.

-Joel

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Originally Posted by Luv2go View Post
Knocking sound is most likely coming from the Transtorque bushing, like you suspected. That is what mine did before I tightened it up even more. 007 has some links to the slideout manuals, I did a quick search for it but could not find it, hopefully he'll see this post and respond.

Also, the slide should be able to be pushed out by hand while the motor is running, if not you may have another problem.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:21 AM   #4
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Just friction. Here is a link the the Trantorque bushings, they are made by Fenner Drives. There is some useful info there, including specs and drawings of them. The "Fitting Instructions" have a chart with the torque required. Hope this helps!
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:58 AM   #5
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I wouldn't over tighten the torque bushing it may split the bushing.
Steward's link explains it well.
I would have someone inside operated the start button and you observe what is going on when motor operates.
If the drive shaft is slipping in bushing you will see it.
The noise maybe coming from in the motor gear box and not the bushing.
Here is Newmars spec on slides.
An Allen key pin may have snapped in one of the shaft key slots also.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:21 PM   #6
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I'm not going to have a chance to work with it again until next week. I am still hoping that the bushing needs to be tightened. I don't think it is an allen key pin- I think I would have noticed that right away.

If it comes to replacing the motor- where would I find one and are they expensive? Would it be hard to do it myself?

Thanks.

-Joel

Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";1172481]I wouldn't over tighten the torque bushing it may split the bushing.
Steward's link explains it well.
I would have someone inside operated the start button and you observe what is going on when motor operates.
If the drive shaft is slipping in bushing you will see it.
The noise maybe coming from in the motor gear box and not the bushing.
Here is [B][URL="http://www.mo-fl.com/Slideout/full_Standard_slide_room_information.pdf
Newmars spec on slides[/URL].[/B]
An Allen key pin may have snapped in one of the shaft key slots also.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:46 AM   #7
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Here is a post on motor if you can read the tag may help for replacement.
The part number should be on your motor if its not been in weather near your LP gas tank.
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Old 05-19-2012, 02:00 PM   #8
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I finally had a chance to get back to the MH. I am pretty certain that the problem is in the gear box connected to the motor. What is the procedure for removing the motor? I have removed the four bolts holding the motor to the frame. The transtorque nut is loose, but I think there must be some connection still holding the rod to the motor.

If the transtorque was completely free, should the motor just slide off the end of the rod? I hit it with a hammer, but it still won't come loose.

-Joel
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:40 AM   #9
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If the bushing is completely free you should be able to rotate one shaft that goes to the trantorque without having the other rotate. If you can't that is what is holding things. My trantorque loosened, then got tight, then I continued loosening it broke free. It took much more torque the second time to get it completely loose. After that the motor just slipped off.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:51 AM   #10
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As I mentioned, I had to loosen the trantorque last summer because my slide had jumped a gear. Back then, I tried loosening the one closest to the motor, but it turned out I needed to loosen the middle one instead. When I loosened the middle nut, it didn't take much and the far half of the rod turned freely. When I loosened the nut near the motor, then I backed it out some then I hit a spot that I loosened it a second time.

But the one near the motor I don't think I ever got free. I have the nut loose now, but the rod still won't turn freely from the motor. I can only turn the nut about a quarter turn in either direction before it won't go any more. Is it worth trying to force the nut looser to free it from the rod, or is hitting it with a hammer my only option left?

-Joel

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luv2go View Post
If the bushing is completely free you should be able to rotate one shaft that goes to the trantorque without having the other rotate. If you can't that is what is holding things. My trantorque loosened, then got tight, then I continued loosening it broke free. It took much more torque the second time to get it completely loose. After that the motor just slipped off.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:14 AM   #11
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You should be able to completely remove the nut from the bushing and slide it down the shaft if it is loose, do it carefully as the parts will fall out as you remove it (happened to me). I did not have to use a hammer on the BR slide, but I will on the LR slide, either that or a long iron pipe on the wrench!
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:16 PM   #12
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Hello Ebprod,

I have the same motorhome as you and was having the same problem as you first had last year, i.e. the slideout had jumped a couple cogs and was not tracking in correctly. The rear of my livingroom slideout was out abvout 3 inch's, so much so, that I could not even close the rear lockdown. I read your thread and many others directing me to the center transtorque bushing, which proved impossible to free the rear shaft even with the locking nut totaly loosened. I went to the Newmar dealer here in Anchorage, Alaska for information....LOL...They didn't want to tell me anything about adjusting the slideout, yes the middle transtorque needed to be loosened to adjust the slideout, that many times it had to be cut off (I'm thinking BIG $$$ here), and that they could see me in about 3 weeks.

Frustrated, I then did some more research and I ran across a link that said all you need to do, to adjust slideout is to extend slideout half-way out, place a jack under the rear sloted rail to jack up the rear corner of the slideout to near as high as possible without binding in the coach side rail tube, and then simply push the slideout in by bumping it with your own body weight. I'm kind of a big guy and did mine alone in about 15 minutes, though two smaller persons could easily do this also. It is not difficult to push in once free of the cog! I still can't believe that Newmar made such a big production out of telling me what needed to be done in order to correct this problem with such a simple fix, unless of course they were trying to get into my back pocket BIG TIME!!!

I used a 2 1/2 ft piece of 12" log from my wood pile as a base for my jack, along with a 10 Ton hydraulic jack from my garage, though a smaller jack or any kind of jack/base combination capable of reaching from the ground to the slotted drive rail would work. I used a tape measure to get equal distance on each side. My end result is now the rear of my slidout is about 3/16" closer to the coach than the front. I can live with that and actually it might work better that was since the motor as you know is at the front near the propane tank.

As I already mentioned, I completed this entire task in about 15 minutes. I hope my post will help you or others with this problem in the future! Should you need a slideout adjustment on your Newmar, you don't need to fool with the TransTorque Bushing to adjust the slidout. Use a jack!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebprod View Post
As I mentioned, I had to loosen the trantorque last summer because my slide had jumped a gear. Back then, I tried loosening the one closest to the motor, but it turned out I needed to loosen the middle one instead. When I loosened the middle nut, it didn't take much and the far half of the rod turned freely. When I loosened the nut near the motor, then I backed it out some then I hit a spot that I loosened it a second time.

But the one near the motor I don't think I ever got free. I have the nut loose now, but the rod still won't turn freely from the motor. I can only turn the nut about a quarter turn in either direction before it won't go any more. Is it worth trying to force the nut looser to free it from the rod, or is hitting it with a hammer my only option left?

-Joel
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