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Old 09-22-2015, 05:40 PM   #15
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Steverino, did any of this help? Need more info?

Aaron
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:41 PM   #16
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Aaron,

Thanks so much! Sorry for my delayed reply - life has a way of interfering. I wasn't expecting such a detailed response, but this is very helpful! I am hoping that I will only have to do a relatively small section, but that may change depending on how the membrane reacts to being peeled back.

I don't have a covered work area so if I do tackle it myself I'm at the mercy of the precip. and cooling temps. Not afraid of the project, but don't know what I'll encounter that could complicate & extend it. I may ask an RV place for an estimate, but I know that won't be cheap either. At least one place has said that if they can't salvage the membrane in the work (rot) area, they won't patch in a new section - they will only do the complete roof. Which I can understand from a liability perspective, but it also increases the cost exponentially...

Oh well. I'm gonna have plenty of time to ponder. Taking the family to Disney next week, so that's a good 30 hrs of wheel time round trip. Once we get back, it'll be decision time.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratob377 View Post
Tubes of dicor, crazy auto correct
Also not self "lapping" it's self "leveling".

I like auto correct, except when it's wrong!
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:32 PM   #18
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Thanks Mr d!! Lol. Missed that one completely

Steverino

Have fun in disney! Let me know if you would like more photos or help

Aaron
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Old 09-25-2015, 07:45 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by hillboy View Post
stop it early is the answer.
My 2001 is having a new roof put on this week. I could have done the front half myself but figured I would still half an old roof.
I hope to have pictures from the job and will post them in a seperate post when it is done. No going to be cheap but do not have a place to work on it or the labor to help out.
Mine turned out to be bigger than expected and required almost 2/3 old. Underlayment removal and new fiberglass insulation under that section. Then over decking of the good part of the roof and double decking of the forward section.
What I thought was a small leak was seeping over a wide area. Each one is different. Also had a screw catch a wire bundle and kill lights in bedroom. Usae the short st you can get away with.
Rv dealer who replaced rof has agreed to pay for wire fix with no problem.
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:24 PM   #20
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Aaron,

Back from Disney (what a great trip!) and working on planning. Three questions:

1. any particular reason you didn't do the whole thing? I know it's a lot more hassle, but I'm thinking if I am gonna do some, maybe I should just do the whole thing. That I'd thank myself later.
2. I've seen where some folks are only using Eternabond around all vents / fittings and no Dicor self-leveling at all. Did you consider that? I think their feeling is that the EB is so durable it would eliminate the routine maintenance of the caulk.
3. Do you happen to recall the lowest recommended working temp for the adhesive? I'm trying to figure whether I can do this project now or will need to wait till spring.

Thanks again!
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:36 PM   #21
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If you use DiCor (white) on the TPO roof then you need to also buy a quart of special Primer, around $48 at PPL...
Bob
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:04 AM   #22
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Hi Steve, sorry about the slow response.

1.) We didn't have the time or the money to do a whole roof. We were under the gun to complete the front third before we went to Disney last year. Took us 4 weeks to finish in between weather fronts. If you have time and a place to keep the roof dry, i would do the whole thing. Looking back i wish i could've done that.

2.) Not sure on that one, I'm inclined to say use both so you would have 2 barriers not just one. Perhaps someone else might have a better prospective on this?

3.) That i I'm not sure on. Call manufacturer. We were trying to guess ourselves and were worried about the dicor not settling in at 50 degrees. Good thing Florida was 80s that week.

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Old 10-28-2015, 09:09 AM   #23
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Also, when you get in there, if your planning on doing the whole thing, definetly go with higher R value insulation. Ours was yellow, which i think is only R5? Maybe 7. We put in tan either R20 or 22. I have extra at the house, after work today I'll double check
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:37 AM   #24
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Hi Aaron,

Thanks for your replies. FWIW, I checked with Dicor - the roof adhesive requires temps above 40 for 48 hours for proper cure. The lap sealant is a bit more forgiving, however the self-leveling properties won't work well in the cold, and the cure time is extended.

I am renting some heated storage for November (hopefully not longer) and am gonna do the whole roof membrane and any bad wood I find. I've now ordered the majority of my materials and hope to get her in there on Saturday...

I started a new thread here: Time for a new roof! Feel free to stop in when you've nothing better to do.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:57 AM   #25
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Sounds great Steve!
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