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Old 08-19-2015, 06:40 AM   #1
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Small leak in Roof

Got a problem with my 2000 Dutchstar. Went up on roof and front left corner is lifting a wee bit. Looks like plywood is lifting. Only about a 3 inch small opening..Never had water inside but can now notice ceiling is slightly faded. Very front left corner of membrane. Am I in big trouble or?? Thanks for your help/advice,,,, Garry
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:51 AM   #2
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Hi gjaeb,
It is difficult to say if you are in big trouble. You are in trouble. Not knowing how the coach is used, a temporary repair is EternaBond at RV Leak Repair Tapes & Sealants | EternaBond

There is no getting around the complete repair of removing the damage portion of the roof and reinstalling good wood and roof material. The EternaBond will stop any further water intrusion.
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:22 AM   #3
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Are you saying that you can actually see the plywood in the roof? That there is a 3" hole in the roof? If so then I'd say ya . . . big trouble. Every year I inspect the roof of our RV (or camper) and make sure it is all good. If there is any sign of cracking, holes, tears, etc . . . it gets repaired right away. If you have water in the roof it can be a major repair. Do you have a fiberglass roof or an EPDM (rubber) roof? And if the water gets into the walls . . . it is even worse. No telling how bad it could be.
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Old 08-22-2015, 12:25 PM   #4
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You can check for dampness inside parts of the roof area ( if you roof is similar to mine, 2001 Mountain Aire) by removing the flouresent fixtures in the cieling( you can let tham hang down) and the round a/c vents in the cieling. It's possible to feel the area around the holes a bit and see how it feels. In any case you an circulate some air into the areas by leaving them open when the MH is parked for a while.
Having my roof replaced shortly and should be able to post pictures when it is done.
Started with a small leak caused by removal of satelite unit before I bought it. Leak was repaired but damage was done and since the glues used are waterbased and the roof deck is made of interior luan and not exterior, that might resist damage from getting wet, progressive deterioation of the roof can continue after the leak.
Not trying to be doom and gloom, just relating my experience. Yours may be repairable with a small area patch.
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Old 08-22-2015, 12:49 PM   #5
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Not to change roof leak locations but while up on the roof check your black tank vent... The plastic falls apart over the years & a hard rain can cause water to enter... On my older Winnie the plastic vent fell apart by touching it... Also the vent tube was not caulked & sealed to roof deck... I am replaceing both vents on my 2001 DS on Monday with 360 Siphon RV Fume Extractors....
Also have two AC covers with holes so will need to replace them as well..
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:58 AM   #6
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We had the same issue last year and had to replace a sheet and a half of plywood. Also changed out 1/3 of the rubber. I think ours started from the sat dish installation (po).
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:03 AM   #7
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Couple of pics from the project.
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:12 PM   #8
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A roof leak is like pregnancy. You either are or aren't. If you are, the only thing to yet find out is if it's one, twins, triplets, or quadruplets!

None of them are inconsequential. All are serious, just check out the pics from Stratob377. It only takes a small penetration for water to get in. Too many people seal the leak, but don't further chase it down to find out how much if any damage has occurred as a result of the leak. EternaBond is great stuff. It can be used for a temporary repair while on the road (tree branched ripped off the horn/antenna) or incorporated into the re-roof or repair to create a trouble free roof.
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:49 PM   #9
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stop it early is the answer.
My 2001 is having a new roof put on this week. I could have done the front half myself but figured I would still half an old roof.
I hope to have pictures from the job and will post them in a seperate post when it is done. No going to be cheap but do not have a place to work on it or the labor to help out.
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:54 PM   #10
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Hey stratob377, did you do the work yourself? I think I'm looking at a similar repair... Any details would be very much appreciated!
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Old 09-20-2015, 05:03 PM   #11
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watching this thanks
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:41 PM   #12
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I did the slide out room roof on my park model 5 years ago. I did it all myself and still no leaks but I will never do it again without assistance.
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:44 AM   #13
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Steverino

We did it ourselves. Plywood came from lowes. I can't remember if we used 11/32 or 3/8. I know we had a hard time matching what newmar used with the plastic backing. The rubber roof was brand new off of ebay, and the dicor roof glue purchased at camping world. You'll want to either use again or buy brand new the rv square head screws (self tapping) for both securing the plywood down to the aluminum runners + the outside metal strips that hold the rubber membrane. Be careful when attaching to the runners as you only have so much width to attach 2 sheets of plywood to. You will need atleast 2 people min. When it comes time to install the new rubber. I would if you can go with 4 people so you can get a good stretch and secure it down.
We spliced the new roof with glue, eternabond tape covering both roof membranes, dicor 551 (self lapping) a metal strip with screws holding both together and more dicor. Before you remove any hardware from the old roof, take multiple measurements so you know where to drill the holes for air horns, tv antennae etc.

What's needed for a front 1/3 replacement

12 tubed of dicor self lapping 551

4 tubed dicor non leveling 501

1 gallon of dicor rubber roof glue

2 sheets plywood ( the front most sheet is not quite 4x8, its 3ft and change x 8 while the second sheet back is a full 4x8.

Lots a square head self tapping screws

1 box of countersink style screws for under the rubber roof (plywood to runners) self tapping
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:32 AM   #14
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Tubes of dicor, crazy auto correct
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