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Old 12-09-2017, 06:03 AM   #1
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Solar Charging System Issue - 2002 MADP

Our coach is a 2002 MADP, and the chassis batteries drain power after only a few days in storage; they charge to 13.2 - 13.5 volts with shore power or running the engine or generator. We suspect that the solar charging system (small roof mounted, factory installed panel) is not operating. The small light on the dash - that is to indicate the solar charging system is on - does not light and apparently there is no trickle charge to keep the batteries charged during storage. The batteries are only a year old and the charge goes down to about 12.1 - 12.3 volts after a few days in storage, which makes is tough to start the coach; or even require the battery booster to be used for starting.

Does anyone know:

How to test if the solar system is working? and/or
How to step-by-step isolate the problem with the solar system?

Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated.

Thank you.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:58 AM   #2
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Hi Road-Chi,
The light on the dash is just there to provide a warm fuzzy to the owner. It provides no indication if the solar panel is working or not. Take the light out of the dash and measure the volts on the output side of the light. If there are volts there then the chassis batteries are being MAINTAINED. The solar panel is a maintainer not a charger. Sounds like you have a drain on the chassis batteries that will need to be found.
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Old 12-09-2017, 10:03 AM   #3
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Before you worry or dive in, tighten all the battery connections. If it does not solve the problem then worry.

Q
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:29 AM   #4
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Solar Charging System Issue - 2002 MADP

Short term storage fix would be to remove the chassis battery cables. The solar panel as stated earlier is only to maintain at best. Things that may be powered from the chassis batteries are, engine ecr , tranny ecr, dash radio, door steps, propane detector, security system, outside running lights etc. Ecm’s can be shut off on our 1999 madp by a rotary switch in the compartment ahead of the batteries. An amp meter across (or in line) with the chassis batteries is the only way we know of to quantify their net rate of drain or charge. You can then start to identify which things as mentioned above may be affecting your batteries through parasitic loads.
Most voltage monitoring displays in that year of Newmar are for the coach batteries and not the chassis batteries - FYI. When not plugged in to electric/or using the genny the isolator relay should not be connecting the 2 battery systems together. If the isolator relay contacts are shorted together then this will cause ALL batteries to work as one.
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:18 PM   #5
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The solar charging circuit will be found in this link at very end.
You have a chassis battery disconnect switch in the rear right of your engine opening to remove any drains for the batteries so charger can maintain your chassis batteries as long as solar panel has sunlight.
Link is found in the Newmar battery section, 2nd section of QT's # 3.
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:44 PM   #6
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More Symptoms ??

Thanks to everyone for the comments. Just drove the coach about 200 miles and, during the trip, the voltage of the chassis batteries were fluctuating. Here is a brief overview (voltage readings below are from the dash mounted, analog volt meter):

Right after coming off shore power, during the 1st few miles, the chassis batteries showed around 12.7 to 12.8 volts. Then, they dropped to 12.1 to 12.3, then after 30 to 40 miles went up to 13.3 to 13.5 volts quite suddenly and stayed at that level for many miles, then dropped down again to the 12.1 to 12.3 volt range. These voltage fluctuations all occurred while the coach was being driven; during this time, no changes were made such as turning on lights, the HVAC, etc. We then pulled into a rest area with the voltage showing in the 12.1 to 12.3 volt range, left the engine on and turned on the generator and immediately the voltage of the chassis batteries went up to 13.3-13.5 volts. We kept both the engine and the generator on for 15 to 20 minutes while at the rest area. Then without turning the engine off, shutdown the generator, and drove the rest of the way with the voltage in the 13.1+ range.

Is this varying voltages of the chassis batteries normal? If not, what would be possible causes?
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road-Chi View Post
Thanks to everyone for the comments. Just drove the coach about 200 miles and, during the trip, the voltage of the chassis batteries were fluctuating. Here is a brief overview (voltage readings below are from the dash mounted, analog volt meter):

Right after coming off shore power, during the 1st few miles, the chassis batteries showed around 12.7 to 12.8 volts. Then, they dropped to 12.1 to 12.3, then after 30 to 40 miles went up to 13.3 to 13.5 volts quite suddenly and stayed at that level for many miles, then dropped down again to the 12.1 to 12.3 volt range. These voltage fluctuations all occurred while the coach was being driven; during this time, no changes were made such as turning on lights, the HVAC, etc. We then pulled into a rest area with the voltage showing in the 12.1 to 12.3 volt range, left the engine on and turned on the generator and immediately the voltage of the chassis batteries went up to 13.3-13.5 volts. We kept both the engine and the generator on for 15 to 20 minutes while at the rest area. Then without turning the engine off, shutdown the generator, and drove the rest of the way with the voltage in the 13.1+ range.

Is this varying voltages of the chassis batteries normal? If not, what would be possible causes?
The alternator and battery charger in the coach charge the batteries at 13.4 V, A fully charged battery should read about 12.8V. Sounds like you might have a loose battery connection or something similar that produces intermittent symptoms.

Keep us posted and good luck.

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Old 12-11-2017, 07:05 AM   #8
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The voltage should remain reasonably steady. Thats the job of voltage regulator on the alternator.

Check the alternator belt for slipping or a bad tensioner.

Next check for loose connections on the back of the alternator. Be careful with wrenches back there, the power is on.

If everything look OK, you may want to get the alternator checked because its not normal to drop below 13 volts while the engine is running.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road-Chi View Post
Thanks to everyone for the comments. Just drove the coach about 200 miles and, during the trip, the voltage of the chassis batteries were fluctuating. Here is a brief overview (voltage readings below are from the dash mounted, analog volt meter):

Right after coming off shore power, during the 1st few miles, the chassis batteries showed around 12.7 to 12.8 volts. Then, they dropped to 12.1 to 12.3, then after 30 to 40 miles went up to 13.3 to 13.5 volts quite suddenly and stayed at that level for many miles, then dropped down again to the 12.1 to 12.3 volt range. These voltage fluctuations all occurred while the coach was being driven; during this time, no changes were made such as turning on lights, the HVAC, etc. We then pulled into a rest area with the voltage showing in the 12.1 to 12.3 volt range, left the engine on and turned on the generator and immediately the voltage of the chassis batteries went up to 13.3-13.5 volts. We kept both the engine and the generator on for 15 to 20 minutes while at the rest area. Then without turning the engine off, shutdown the generator, and drove the rest of the way with the voltage in the 13.1+ range.

Is this varying voltages of the chassis batteries normal? If not, what would be possible causes?
I just reread your post and I think Twinboat is right in the ballpark. It sounds like your batteries are charging while the generator is running but now when the engine is running. The voltages you posted seem to eliminate the alternator and point to a loose connection between the alternator and the battery.

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