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Old 12-21-2016, 07:11 AM   #29
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I was able to recently contact Newmar about current details on the solar prep option for 2017 models, and here is their reply Seems that Newmar has officially come up to speed with respect to state of the art solar installs!

"In the DP's, the 6AWG solar prep wires are to be routed from the roof to the compartment just aft to the house battery compartment. In the gas coaches with an option to place house batteries in the basement storage compartment, the 6AWG solar prep wires are to be routed from the food to the compartment just aft to the house battery compartment. In the standard gas coaches where the house batteries are under the hood, the 6AWG solar prep wires are to be routed from the roof to the door side compartment where the converter and/or inverter is located. Also a CAT6 cable (is run) from the same compartment to behind the monitor panel."
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:15 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luv2go View Post
We raised our panels so the surface is about 5 1/2" above the roof. Used tilt mount hardware from Unirac (990032). They had a whole series for different size panels here. We used these because we had big panels we wanted to tilt, the height was a bonus as it keeps them high enough so they are not shaded by the A/C's or vent covers most of the time. Here's a shot:
Attachment 144975

Unirac doesn't make them any more, however I called them and their tech support said they'd be happy to send anyone the documentation they have and they do have most of the parts available (the tilt bars are the only thing they don't have). I asked if I could publish it, if they say yes I'll post it here if you're interested.
Did you happen to have a chance to track down the documentation from Unirac?
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:15 AM   #31
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If the Cat 6 wire is for a remote monitor in the front panel, I see no place to mount the remote monitor. If you get all the options then the panel looks full in the pictures I have seen.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:31 AM   #32
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Control panel full? Yes! My thoughts exactly!
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:07 AM   #33
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Maybe run the Cat 6 wire to the mid coach bath as a free special?
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:40 AM   #34
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Maybe run the Cat 6 wire to the mid coach bath as a free special?


That is exactly what I'm doing. I've found that half bath fuse box to be potentially valuable real estate for a number of things.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:55 AM   #35
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DrPhil,

What else do you have in store for the fuse box? Are you having Newmar run the Cat 6 for the solar to the fuse box?
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:09 PM   #36
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No, but I'm running conduit to and fro a bunch of places (Newmar's suggestion). Into the fuse box I will add both a weboost cellular signal booster and a wifiRanger router with conduits to the roof for their antenna wires. I also have two conduits from strategic places in the basement to the fuse cabinet, and now that I know whats going on, I will run the cat6 through one up into the fuse cabinet for a remote solar monitor (and likely a battery monitor too.
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:42 PM   #37
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Using the BMK monitor or the Trimetric(sp.) The BMK runs to the inverter I think and is displayed on the monitor in the control panel.
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:26 PM   #38
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I'm glad I found this thread. I see the red and black 6ga wire rolled up with a CAT6 cable secured to the bulkhead of the bay just aft of the battery rack. I was mounting a ME-BMK right next to it. Now...has anyone replaced their ME-RC50 with the ME-ARC in the front cabinet and installed the PT-100 charge controller? It's a bit more expensive right now compared to the Morningstar...but I kinda like the fact that it works thru the same display as my Inverter, AGS, BMK...and even takes information from the already installed temp sensor on the battery bank.
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Old 03-07-2017, 09:16 AM   #39
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I have 6 of the Global Solar flexible panels installed on my '07 Essex with the roof valance. All I can say is DON'T do it... I went with the Magnum MPPT which requires a minimum of 24v to run so I had to run 3 sets of 2 panels in a series/parallel arrangement. The main problem is shading and it is huge. 20/20 hindsight says tilting panels at the height of the valance would be the way to go. With them raised up I probably would never bother actually tilting them for the sun gain. I'd want them to tilt to gain walking access on the roof.

Whatever you do, do NOT flat mount any panels on any raised valance motorhome.
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