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Old 07-17-2017, 04:21 PM   #71
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While you are exploring with the mirror look to confirm what color audio cable is plugged in to the sub? I have the red, white and yellow plugged into the back of the a/v receiver with the yellow plugged into the subwoofer spot.
A for what it's worth...
My sub-woofer in 2017 4037 is located on forward bulkhead under the sink.
The controls and connector are on the top.
The RCA input connector is yellow.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:22 PM   #72
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A for what it's worth...
My sub-woofer in 2017 4037 is located on forward bulkhead under the sink.
The controls and connector are on the top.
The RCA input connector is yellow.


They moved them to the televator for some reason. It threw my tech off at FPU as he thought it was missing.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:27 PM   #73
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They moved them to the televator for some reason. It threw my tech off at FPU as he thought it was missing.
Go figure! I am glad mine is accessible. I don't know which provides the better acoustic environment.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:33 PM   #74
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Go figure! I am glad mine is accessible. I don't know which provides the better acoustic environment.


Neither IMHO. Speakers shouldn't be concealed. Subs are less of an issue but it still probably makes them near useless. But where are you going to put one? Maybe a smaller one left or right on the televator ledge? Most probably prefer that space for something else.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:42 PM   #75
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Neither IMHO. Speakers shouldn't be concealed. Subs are less of an issue but it still probably makes them near useless. But where are you going to put one? Maybe a smaller one left or right on the televator ledge? Most probably prefer that space for something else.
Subs either move massive amounts of air at a low rate or transfer energy to structure that will move air to be felt/heard by us. If the stucture method is used, structure must be strong and well made or it will cause non-musical vibration or rattle. Stuff under sink or the cabinet structure buzzes or rattles when mine is driven hard😡. I had to back off on my settings for some source material.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:32 PM   #76
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If I can't get my sub to work I am looking at putting one behind the driver's seat. I could then run the wiring to it. How would you get the wiring from the a/v receiver to the televator area? Another option is to get a wireless subwoofer kit.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:51 PM   #77
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Yeah, I thought of Bluetooth but I just don't know if a sub is really necessary. We'll see. I just put Polk RC80i'a in and a Polk center and am loving it.

I about knock my drivers seat off every time I bring in the FWS so something behind it would mean trouble. I wonder how much space is under the jack knife sofa? That's where they should have put the wall mounted sub. Hmmm, maybe I could floor mount it there?
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:43 PM   #78
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Yeah, I thought of Bluetooth but I just don't know if a sub is really necessary. We'll see. I just put Polk RC80i'a in and a Polk center and am loving it.

I about knock my drivers seat off every time I bring in the FWS so something behind it would mean trouble. I wonder how much space is under the jack knife sofa? That's where they should have put the wall mounted sub. Hmmm, maybe I could floor mount it there?
Get a couple of these.

The ButtKicker : Wireless Kit

I like Polk speakers. My house has an entire set of them.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:12 PM   #79
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The subwoofer thru my tech off too. He thought it was missing. It used to get installed under the sink. In mine it's wall mounted in the televator bay. Run the tv half way down and shine a flash light in there.
In my case, I could not figure out why the subwoofer would not consistently work. I stumbled onto the various sound options on the receiver and apparently, I only get the subwoofer to work in theater mode (may not have that mode name exactly right). By the way, my subwoofer is way in the back underneath the kitchen sink. I can definitely tell when it is working.
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:50 AM   #80
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While I have been working on my setup I had the receiver turned sideways. I tried to turn it around and put it all back in this morning in one big group and it would not go. I guess I will need to put each piece in one at a time and hopefully something does not come loose. I have ordered some 8" hdmi port savers to help with those thick hdmi cables that will not bend. I will also trim some of the wood at the outlets to give me some more space.
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:15 AM   #81
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The problem I have now is no audio on the external TV unless I tell the receiver to send audio to the TV output instead of HDMI. That's still a work in progress. I even tried an optical cable on the external TV to the Bose soundbar and nothing. I haven't figured out that soundbar yet, need to get the manual for it.
Neal, did you solve the problem of no audio to your external TV? Curious before I begin this A/V mod.
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:30 AM   #82
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Yes thanks to shutting all power down to things while I installed an electrical item. The marantz receiver has a pass through so when it's off then it doesn't take hold of the audio for the interior speakers and the external works fine. I still have some tinkering to do but the external TV has been on the bottom of my list. Technically speaking, the HDMI should be passing video and audio to that TV. At the very least an optical cable from the TV to the Bose soundbar should work. I'm not sure what problem I had before but I just tried the TV last week when powering everything on again after my ME-BMK install and it worked fine.

Bottom line: this A/V stuff is confusing whether in a RV or home. It's ALWAYS complicated! ...for some reason.
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:42 AM   #83
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Anyone figured out how to get the bedroom speakers to work?
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:45 AM   #84
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Anyone figured out how to get the bedroom speakers to work?
Bedroom speakers feed off the dash unit, not the receiver in the A/V box. Make sure the speakers are turned on in the bedroom. I have two switches in the bedroom to turn each of the two speakers on/off.
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