Specials... Lost in translation!!!

[C.Martin]

Anybody out there with a 2016 Ventana w/ High Definition Wiring with Blu-ray DVD player and Prep for ground tripodsatellite dish with a/b switch????

I would love to hear from you how this all got wired...

I'm trying to add a tripod satellite conection in the basement storage area (where the catv connection is) and make sure it goes to BOTH a/v cabinets. The one over the drivers seat...and the one in the bedroom ward cabinet. Is that how they ran your "tripodsatellite dish with a/b switch"???

I was also trying to get them to run two HDMI cables between the two a/v cabinets. They wrote it as two HDMI cables from THE a/v cabinet to the bedroom TV. That's not gonna work. I would like to add a Vip211k Satellite rcvr in each of the two A/V cabinets. When we entertain inside for football games...I'd love to be able to route the rear SAT output to the front ovhd tv...I was planning on putting HDMI 4x2 matrix switches in each location to route the signal. I guess my question is... can you confirm with the High Definition Wiring...isn't there already an HDMI cable going from each of the TVs in the front of the coach going to the front A/V cabinet...AND a HDMI cable going from the bedroom TV to the bedroom A/V cabinet???? I don't have access to a coach to look the wiring over to find out if my suspicions are true. It's gonna be a big disappointment if I can't get the specials written correctly. With two single channel sat rcvrs and three tvs...I had to come up with something.


Thanks in advance for your input...and super congratulations on your Newmar coach!!!

Charlie

[RUFINIT]

Charlie

I ordered and took delivery on a new Essex with AV wiring changes, some as you are requesting.

I did mine a little different than you, but what you are doing will work fine.

I wanted to install a 4 x 4 Matrix, so I had them home run from each of my 4 TV's to my AV cabinet that I had them create in my desk at the dining table. So I just need one receiver (I use a Dish 722 VIP) and it will play on any or all of the TV's. I also get cable and the Radar Antenna output on all the TV's. It works great.

I had Newmar run a cable for the external satellite dish input from the AV cabinet to the electrical bay (where we would connect cable.) I use this the opposite of what you want, i.e. I use my dish on the motorhome to supply a signal to an outdoor living area where we winter in Indio, CA, but the effect is the same as what you want.

You also want two HDMI cables run from the front to the back. They probably don't understand rear AV cabinet. Just explain that you want those cables run from the AV cabinet to the location of the Blue Ray and you should be fine.

However you design it, make sure you are specific and the write up comes back exactly as you expect it, or they may not get it right. You will sign off on every special you request before the order is complete, so you can make sure it will be correct.

As an alternative, you may consider having them run Cat 5 wiring rather than HDMI cables. A lot less costly and takes less space in your cabinets. You then adapt them to HDMI at each end. That is one thing I wish I did because with 4 HDMI cable (which come in fixed lengths, and all the excess is in the cabinet) take a lot of space and have to be wrapped tightly and tucked out of the way.

Hope you enjoy your new coach as much as we are enjoying ours.

Originally Posted by C.Martin

Anybody out there with a 2016 Ventana w/ High Definition Wiring with Blu-ray DVD player and Prep for ground tripodsatellite dish with a/b switch????

I would love to hear from you how this all got wired...

I'm trying to add a tripod satellite conection in the basement storage area (where the catv connection is) and make sure it goes to BOTH a/v cabinets. The one over the drivers seat...and the one in the bedroom ward cabinet. Is that how they ran your "tripodsatellite dish with a/b switch"???

I was also trying to get them to run two HDMI cables between the two a/v cabinets. They wrote it as two HDMI cables from THE a/v cabinet to the bedroom TV. That's not gonna work. I would like to add a Vip211k Satellite rcvr in each of the two A/V cabinets. When we entertain inside for football games...I'd love to be able to route the rear SAT output to the front ovhd tv...I was planning on putting HDMI 4x2 matrix switches in each location to route the signal. I guess my question is... can you confirm with the High Definition Wiring...isn't there already an HDMI cable going from each of the TVs in the front of the coach going to the front A/V cabinet...AND a HDMI cable going from the bedroom TV to the bedroom A/V cabinet???? I don't have access to a coach to look the wiring over to find out if my suspicions are true. It's gonna be a big disappointment if I can't get the specials written correctly. With two single channel sat rcvrs and three tvs...I had to come up with something.


Thanks in advance for your input...and super congratulations on your Newmar coach!!!

Charlie

[gmpartsvet]

On our 2013 ventana, hd wiring, ground sat option wiring, blu Ray, everything you are asking for was included except the hd runs between the two av cabinets. The only run between the two cabinets was a coax from a splitter in the front cabinet to the rear for the antenna/cable. Next to the cable connection in the electrical bay were two ground sat connections, one going to each av cabinet. There was also a hd splitter to send the output from the front sat receiver to all tv's except the bedroom.

[wa8yxm]

Sat cables can not be split since there is no way for the company to know if you will go with Dish or Direct and they use not splitters but switches (Automatic Digital Equipment Swiches) and they are DIFFERENT depending on the service. So what you are looking for does not exist. And in fact can not exist.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

Sat cables can not be split since there is no way for the company to know if you will go with Dish or Direct and they use not splitters but switches (Automatic Digital Equipment Swiches) and they are DIFFERENT depending on the service. So what you are looking for does not exist. And in fact can not exist.

I figured they would put two connectors in the electric bay...and I would have to run two cables from the tripod dish's LNB. That way I can run two SAT receivers...just like the Traveler up on the roof. I think it has three outputs... The DISH LNB should have multiple outputs too...

Having never owned a SAT anything...any help you guys can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks so much,,,

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by gmpartsvet

On our 2013 ventana, hd wiring, ground sat option wiring, blu Ray, everything you are asking for was included except the hd runs between the two av cabinets. The only run between the two cabinets was a coax from a splitter in the front cabinet to the rear for the antenna/cable. Next to the cable connection in the electrical bay were two ground sat connections, one going to each av cabinet. There was also a hd splitter to send the output from the front sat receiver to all tv's except the bedroom.

Thanks...I was hoping that that was the case.

I'm hoping that I can put a Vip211k in each cabinet (Front and Bedroom)...and feed the SAT receiver and Blu-Ray/DVD into a 4x2 HDMI matrix. The bedroom outputs would go to the bedroom TV and the front A/V cabinet. The front 4x2 matrix would take inputs from the bedroom matrix, front SAT rcvr, and front Blu-Ray/DVD...with outputs going to the Living Room Televator TV, and the Overhead TV. I'm hoping that I can use the bedroom SAT receiver to feed the front overhead TV...so We can be viewing two college games at once in the living room. Time will tell...I see lots of HDMI matrix problems being discussed in forums. Hopefully, I'll find some that are 1080i compatible (Max output from the ViP211k receiver).

Thanks for the response...

Charlie

[RUFINIT]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

Thanks...I was hoping that that was the case.

I'm hoping that I can put a Vip211k in each cabinet (Front and Bedroom)...and feed the SAT receiver and Blu-Ray/DVD into a 4x2 HDMI matrix. The bedroom outputs would go to the bedroom TV and the front A/V cabinet. The front 4x2 matrix would take inputs from the bedroom matrix, front SAT rcvr, and front Blu-Ray/DVD...with outputs going to the Living Room Televator TV, and the Overhead TV. I'm hoping that I can use the bedroom SAT receiver to feed the front overhead TV...so We can be viewing two college games at once in the living room. Time will tell...I see lots of HDMI matrix problems being discussed in forums. Hopefully, I'll find some that are 1080i compatible (Max output from the ViP211k receiver).

Thanks for the response...

Charlie

Charlie,

Contact Steve Bollero Jr. at Riverpark. This is the company that supplies all the audio/video equipment for Newmar. Steve was very helpful in getting me the right HDMI matrix 4 x 4. He can surely help you get what you need to make your system work as you would like it. His email address is:

stevenbollerojr@riverparkinc.com

He even brought the matrix to my coach, installed it and made sure it worked as I expected it to. He will give you his phone number to talk to him and go over what you need.

Good luck!

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by RUFINIT

Charlie,

Contact Steve Bollero Jr. at Riverpark. This is the company that supplies all the audio/video equipment for Newmar. Steve was very helpful in getting me the right HDMI matrix 4 x 4. He can surely help you get what you need to make your system work as you would like it. His email address is:

stevenbollerojr@riverparkinc.com

He even brought the matrix to my coach, installed it and made sure it worked as I expected it to. He will give you his phone number to talk to him and go over what you need.

Good luck!

Awesome contact...Thanks!!!! Do you know what brand or model of matrix you are using? It would be nice to know which brands are reliable...

[C.Martin]

I'm changing gears here. I've got the details worked out on the SAT Tripod prep...and the HDMI cable runs between a/v cabinets. I have one SPECIAL that I am having a devil of a time explaining to Newmar.

If anyone has a coach...recent Ventana model preferably. With the following components...

2 Air Conditioners/Heat Pumps
8000w Onan Generator
All electric coach
Energy Mgmnt System....

Then I have a special favor to ask....

Did you get a written breakdown of the order in which the Energy Mgmnt System sheds the loads? More specifically...which Air Conditioner is the LAST to be shed???? Front or Rear???

And secondly, If possible...could you send me a photo of your AC circuit breaker panel. I need to see how the breakers are laid out....which Line powers the longest surviving Air Conditioner...and if there is room for a branch circuit to be added to that line either by adding a breaker or swapping out an existing breaker with a tandem breaker so that I can add a branch circuit in that Line. I'm trying to add one 110V AC outlet that is powered by a branch circuit that is on the same buss as the last standing Air Conditioner. This is so that my alerting system can detect a power interruption and call our cellphones. It appears all of the duplex receptacles in the coach...other than the Washer and Dryer are powered by the Inverter Sub Panel. This will not work for me...because they continue to run off the 8 house batteries...even when AC power has been interrupted from shore power or Generator power. In other words...the Air Conditioners can quit working...but the inverter outlets will still sense 110v AC power.

If you are confused by this...add yourself to the list of people at Newmar that haven't been able to catch my drift either.

So far, they've misinterpreted my request...thinking I wanted them to run the outlet off the Air Conditioner circuit...and declared it a Code Violation. If I can more succinctly express which slot of the breaker panel to use for the added branch circuit...I think that I can finally get my point across. If that is a code violation...then so would adding a third air conditioning unit.

Thanks a million again!!!

Charlie

[dereed999]

I'll be curious to see the responses you get.

I believe the Precision Circuits Power Control System in the Ventana et al. is relay based in the control unit - not the panel board. See the Newmar 2013 Service School Document on Precision Circuits Products starting on page 15. (Also you can look in comnet2 at the current part numbers and dig up the details on them.)

This means: adding another "breaker" (or "tandem") to the panel won't actually cause load shedding.

Let me explain why I say this:
The Power Control panel is just a standard breaker panel (more or less) that also houses the control unit. The control unit has connectors that are "spliced" between the breaker output and the load. Behind those connectors are relays controlled by that control unit. When there is too much load, it opens the relay and the line from breaker to load is "open" so no power flows to the load.

In addition to the four (4) 120V relays the control unit has (so up to 4 120V circuits can be load shed), there is also a connector for 12V items like A/Cs that connects via a special molex type pigtail. Since A/C thermostats are low voltage (12V or less), what happens is rather than "cutting the power to the A/C compressor" the A/C thermostat is wired into the control unit. That way the control unit "cuts the connection between A/C and thermostat and therefore the A/C doesn't know the thermostat is saying 'cool this place down!!!'" (not exactly, but close enough for what we're talking here.)

So, to summarize for a second.... the PCS on a '16 Ventana uses Precision Circuit's device. Up to 4 *breakers* feed into control unit. That's it. Only those 4 branch circuits wired into the control unit can be load shed (the A/C's are cut differently - via thermostat disconnect).

So your question doesn't really make sense. You could ask Newmar "what 120V loads (branch circuits) are shed by the PCS" If they only give you 3 loads, you could ask them to wire up a 4th dedicated branch.

BUT... this is only half the problem. I have *no clue* if the PCS configuration software (and it is configured via a windows app & dongle) allows you to pick two relays to disconnect at the same time. In other words, I don't know if it's possible to say "disconnect relay 1 and relay 2 first, then relay 7, then ..." I don't think duplicates are allowed - so you would have to say "relay 2 first, relay 1 second, relay 7 third, ..."

Here's a diagram if it helps explain what I'm talking about: PCS System Wiring

Bottom line: I suggest you ask Newmar: "How do you program the load shedding on the PCS" (ask for a screen grab like on page 16 of the Service School PDF - heck, send them the link and say "can you tell me what page 16 would look like for my/a default 2016 Ventana model xxxx coach?") Then you can look at the setup and decide is there an unused 120V relay or if what you want to do is even possible with the PCS system they use. As I said, it's possible that you can't program two things to load shed at the same time.

Hope this helps.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by dereed999

I'll be curious to see the responses you get.

I believe the Precision Circuits Power Control System in the Ventana et al. is relay based in the control unit - not the panel board. See the Newmar 2013 Service School Document on Precision Circuits Products starting on page 15. (Also you can look in comnet2 at the current part numbers and dig up the details on them.)

This means: adding another "breaker" (or "tandem") to the panel won't actually cause load shedding.

Let me explain why I say this:
The Power Control panel is just a standard breaker panel (more or less) that also houses the control unit. The control unit has connectors that are "spliced" between the breaker output and the load. Behind those connectors are relays controlled by that control unit. When there is too much load, it opens the relay and the line from breaker to load is "open" so no power flows to the load.

In addition to the four (4) 120V relays the control unit has (so up to 4 120V circuits can be load shed), there is also a connector for 12V items like A/Cs that connects via a special molex type pigtail. Since A/C thermostats are low voltage (12V or less), what happens is rather than "cutting the power to the A/C compressor" the A/C thermostat is wired into the control unit. That way the control unit "cuts the connection between A/C and thermostat and therefore the A/C doesn't know the thermostat is saying 'cool this place down!!!'" (not exactly, but close enough for what we're talking here.)

So, to summarize for a second.... the PCS on a '16 Ventana uses Precision Circuit's device. Up to 4 *breakers* feed into control unit. That's it. Only those 4 branch circuits wired into the control unit can be load shed (the A/C's are cut differently - via thermostat disconnect).

So your question doesn't really make sense. You could ask Newmar "what 120V loads (branch circuits) are shed by the PCS" If they only give you 3 loads, you could ask them to wire up a 4th dedicated branch.

BUT... this is only half the problem. I have *no clue* if the PCS configuration software (and it is configured via a windows app & dongle) allows you to pick two relays to disconnect at the same time. In other words, I don't know if it's possible to say "disconnect relay 1 and relay 2 first, then relay 7, then ..." I don't think duplicates are allowed - so you would have to say "relay 2 first, relay 1 second, relay 7 third, ..."

Here's a diagram if it helps explain what I'm talking about: PCS System Wiring

Bottom line: I suggest you ask Newmar: "How do you program the load shedding on the PCS" (ask for a screen grab like on page 16 of the Service School PDF - heck, send them the link and say "can you tell me what page 16 would look like for my/a default 2016 Ventana model xxxx coach?") Then you can look at the setup and decide is there an unused 120V relay or if what you want to do is even possible with the PCS system they use. As I said, it's possible that you can't program two things to load shed at the same time.

Hope this helps.

Thanks... I do realize most of what you said. My goal isn't to get wired into the Load Shedding system. It is only to identify the Air Conditioner that stays running the longest (last to load shed). From looking at examples on Com Net...it appears that Newmar leaves the Front A/C unit running til the very end. It is shed last. I did see the 12 volt circuitry used to accomplish the shedding of A/C units.


It also appears that the Front A/C unit is usually placed on the first branch circuit...powered from Line 1.

This being the case...I just want to add an additional 15amp branch circuit. It needs to be in an available slot powered by Line 1 as well.

That new 15 amp branch circuit will feed a 110v outlet for my Alarm to plug into.

Should the transfer switch lose both shore power and generator power...the L1 voltage will be zero. The front A/C unit will fail, and so will the power to my dedicated 110v outlet. The Alarm will sense this condition and place a call to our cellphone to alert us to an Alarm Condition. It will also call us if a set temperature is exceeded...but the power failure is most likely the first event to occur...giving us the most time to get back to the coach and let the pets out.

I have asked Owners if they knew of any outlets NOT powered by the 2800w Inverter installed in the all-electric models. They have replied all the outlets they know of run off the Inverter. I know the washer and dryer are not on the Inverter...but those outlets are probably very difficult to access and the back bathroom is not the optimal place for my Alarm System.

I've rewritten my request...hopefully in a more concise manner for their review. Time will tell.

[dereed999]

Let us know what they say. I get what you're trying to do, but what I'm still missing is why it has to be on the same side (L1/L2) of the electrical power as the last AC to shed? Why not just ask for a non-inverter powered outlet?

Given shedding happens *after* the breakers, I don't get how being on L1 (presumably w/ AC 1 which sheds last) makes a difference. You're looking for power fail - so a non-inverter outlet will give you that.

I've tried thinking it through a few ways and I must be missing something.

Failure modes:

• If on 50A shore power:
  • Campground looses power or breaker trips. Both L1 and L2 go cold until auto-generator start (AGS) kicks in. Any outlet you have not on the inverter would go cold at least until AGS engages. So you would get an alarm, presumably followed by a restore (but wouldn't be able to tell if generator is running or shore power came back). PCS module would detect it's running on generator and shed loads as it needs to, but you can't tell from a non-inverter outlet, apart from temperature rise, if it somehow shed all your Air Conditioners. You could only tell if your non-inverter outlet was wired into the load shedding setup so the outlet was shed (in which case you would have to shed right before or at the same time as the last A/C)
  • Campground looses half power - so rather than a full trip of the breaker, only one side of the double breaker trips. This one's messy. The PCS is constantly looking at the voltage difference from L1 to L2 to determine if plugged into a 50A pedestal or 30A under the assumption that if 50A the L1 to L2 voltage is 240 and if 30A then the "adapter plug" has connected the coach side L1 and L2 together inside it so the PCS sees 0 volts difference. So if the PCS sees 0 it assumes a 30A pedestal w/ L1 and L2 joined together in the adapter plug at the pedestal. In this "half-off" situation, it will see 0V difference (hot wire to open wire therefore 0V difference since no current flow) and assume a 30A situation and shed loads accordingly. Only those circuits on the same side of the 50A breaker that didn't trip will have power and be detected as load that could be shed if needed. So if the L1 half of the 50A double trips, then L2 will have power and if the L2 half of the 50A double trips, then L1 will have power. The PCS will load shed on the working half as needed. Stepping back, if you have a non-inverter powered outlet you have a 50/50 chance of being on the side with power. Given Newmar puts one A/C on L1 and one A/C on L2 (and if you have a third can't remember which side it sits on) in this case you'll still have (at least) one functioning A/C. You may or may not get an alarm for power fail based on 50/50 chance, but if the one A/C does get load shed (unlikely) or can't keep up with cooling the coach (possible in very hot climates) you'll get a temperature alarm.
  • Summary: If on 50A shore, and something fails, a non-inverter outlet will *usually, but not always* tell you that a failure has occurred. Running it through the load-shedding PCS would increase your chances of detecting that all A/Cs are off before temperature rises, but still not 100% chance of knowing power is out. AGS should keep your pets from undue heat and most of the time you'll know the power is out (but not all).
• If on 30A shore power:
  • Campground looses power or breaker trips. Same as on 50A scenario if you have a non-inverter powered outlet. You'll get an alarm for lost power, followed by a restore due to AGS as temperature rises (presumably). You won't be able to tell from a non-inverter outlet if the A/C load has been shed for some reason.
• If on generator power:
  • Loads are shed as needed to keep within the capacity of the generator - but be aware your generator has a double breaker - so it's got a L1 and L2 output so the PCS will shed loads so L1 doesn't exceed 35A and L2 doesn't exceed 35A and the combined doesn't exceed 66A. If you have a non-inverter outlet, and you're on generator, you'll never get a "power out" situation unless the generator fails. But, you won't know with certainty that the A/C hasn't somehow been shed (which would be really really strange unless you have something else sucking down power when you aren't there.)

I guess what I'm still confused over is why not just ask Newmar for a non-inverter powered outlet. The only cases that outlet wouldn't go cold and detect a situation where the A/C might not be working are:

• Half breaker failure on a 50A pedestal and you're on the half still having power - but that half breaker should still be providing power to one of the A/Cs so in theory you'll keep the temperature in check so it's a "non-issue".
• Generator power and it sheds all the A/Cs. But... given the 35A out per line of the generator, and 13.5kW A/C use of about 15A I can't fathom what you would leave running in your coach when you aren't there that would consume so much power an A/C couldn't be run.

If you ask for the non-inverter powered outlet to be controlled by the PCS (doubtful they can do that) but if they can, you could know that the A/C has been shed but that's a very byzantine failure.

So, rounding back to my confusion: why not just ask for a non-inverter powered outlet and leave it at that? Why does it have to be L1? I don't see what that's getting you?

Anyway, good luck with them understanding your ask!

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by dereed999

Let us know what they say. I get what you're trying to do, but what I'm still missing is why it has to be on the same side (L1/L2) of the electrical power as the last AC to shed? Why not just ask for a non-inverter powered outlet?

Given shedding happens *after* the breakers, I don't get how being on L1 (presumably w/ AC 1 which sheds last) makes a difference. You're looking for power fail - so a non-inverter outlet will give you that.

I've tried thinking it through a few ways and I must be missing something.

Failure modes:

• If on 50A shore power:
  • Campground looses power or breaker trips. Both L1 and L2 go cold until auto-generator start (AGS) kicks in. Any outlet you have not on the inverter would go cold at least until AGS engages. So you would get an alarm, presumably followed by a restore (but wouldn't be able to tell if generator is running or shore power came back). PCS module would detect it's running on generator and shed loads as it needs to, but you can't tell from a non-inverter outlet, apart from temperature rise, if it somehow shed all your Air Conditioners. You could only tell if your non-inverter outlet was wired into the load shedding setup so the outlet was shed (in which case you would have to shed right before or at the same time as the last A/C)
  • Campground looses half power - so rather than a full trip of the breaker, only one side of the double breaker trips. This one's messy. The PCS is constantly looking at the voltage difference from L1 to L2 to determine if plugged into a 50A pedestal or 30A under the assumption that if 50A the L1 to L2 voltage is 240 and if 30A then the "adapter plug" has connected the coach side L1 and L2 together inside it so the PCS sees 0 volts difference. So if the PCS sees 0 it assumes a 30A pedestal w/ L1 and L2 joined together in the adapter plug at the pedestal. In this "half-off" situation, it will see 0V difference (hot wire to open wire therefore 0V difference since no current flow) and assume a 30A situation and shed loads accordingly. Only those circuits on the same side of the 50A breaker that didn't trip will have power and be detected as load that could be shed if needed. So if the L1 half of the 50A double trips, then L2 will have power and if the L2 half of the 50A double trips, then L1 will have power. The PCS will load shed on the working half as needed. Stepping back, if you have a non-inverter powered outlet you have a 50/50 chance of being on the side with power. Given Newmar puts one A/C on L1 and one A/C on L2 (and if you have a third can't remember which side it sits on) in this case you'll still have (at least) one functioning A/C. You may or may not get an alarm for power fail based on 50/50 chance, but if the one A/C does get load shed (unlikely) or can't keep up with cooling the coach (possible in very hot climates) you'll get a temperature alarm.
  • Summary: If on 50A shore, and something fails, a non-inverter outlet will *usually, but not always* tell you that a failure has occurred. Running it through the load-shedding PCS would increase your chances of detecting that all A/Cs are off before temperature rises, but still not 100% chance of knowing power is out. AGS should keep your pets from undue heat and most of the time you'll know the power is out (but not all).
• If on 30A shore power:
  • Campground looses power or breaker trips. Same as on 50A scenario if you have a non-inverter powered outlet. You'll get an alarm for lost power, followed by a restore due to AGS as temperature rises (presumably). You won't be able to tell from a non-inverter outlet if the A/C load has been shed for some reason.
• If on generator power:
  • Loads are shed as needed to keep within the capacity of the generator - but be aware your generator has a double breaker - so it's got a L1 and L2 output so the PCS will shed loads so L1 doesn't exceed 35A and L2 doesn't exceed 35A and the combined doesn't exceed 66A. If you have a non-inverter outlet, and you're on generator, you'll never get a "power out" situation unless the generator fails. But, you won't know with certainty that the A/C hasn't somehow been shed (which would be really really strange unless you have something else sucking down power when you aren't there.)

I guess what I'm still confused over is why not just ask Newmar for a non-inverter powered outlet. The only cases that outlet wouldn't go cold and detect a situation where the A/C might not be working are:

• Half breaker failure on a 50A pedestal and you're on the half still having power - but that half breaker should still be providing power to one of the A/Cs so in theory you'll keep the temperature in check so it's a "non-issue".
• Generator power and it sheds all the A/Cs. But... given the 35A out per line of the generator, and 13.5kW A/C use of about 15A I can't fathom what you would leave running in your coach when you aren't there that would consume so much power an A/C couldn't be run.

If you ask for the non-inverter powered outlet to be controlled by the PCS (doubtful they can do that) but if they can, you could know that the A/C has been shed but that's a very byzantine failure.

So, rounding back to my confusion: why not just ask for a non-inverter powered outlet and leave it at that? Why does it have to be L1? I don't see what that's getting you?

Anyway, good luck with them understanding your ask!

Excellent description. I see you understand completely. It was just, for me...the ideal line to run it off of. I believe the third A/c unit uses L1 as well...if you have one. I don't have three AC units or a dishwasher. I figured this would've been easy. I wouldn't dare try to explain running the circuit thru the EMS relay. I've already failed at trying to explain adding a simple 15 amp branch circuit...to an outlet.

I will be happy with ANY non-inverter power source at this point.

So far, my request has been denied citing RVIA electrical code violation...but no specifics on how it is...that it violates the code.

[dereed999]

Well good luck! I can't fathom why a non-inverter powered outlet would be causing a canary/Code Violation unless the panel is already full.

One other thing you could ask of them is the "Breaker Box detail" engineering diagram. If they say "what" send them to their Service School 2011 Electrical link and say "like what's on pages 7, 8, and 9". That will show you if there's a double you can use or a single you could swap out and maybe you could even mark up the PDF to say "make this a double and run a non-inverter outlet off the 'new' part of the double"