Steps

[Dougjpr]

On our 05 DS, yesterday when getting fuel, when I closed the door (step switch in ‘on’ position), when the steps retracted the motor continued to run for a few seconds before it stopped.
Almost as if the store limit switch wasn’t activating.
Stair goes out fine.
When looking under the stairs I can see nothing that tells the motor to stop.
Where is the limit switches for the stairs?
Are they built into the control module?
What turns motor off when the steps teVh either limit?
My initial thought is a bad controller
Thanks

[Skip426]

The step stop is a load sensitive relay in the control box.

If the motor continued to run , there may be a broken tooth in the drive mechanism. If the motor over loads the control box there would is a fuse that would blow.
Did you hear any unusual noise from the motor ?

[Dougjpr]

No unusual noises, until it gets fully retracted, then you hear the noise of the motor driving the mechanism

[Caldwell54]

I just started to have this same problem with the steps not retracting correctly on my 2005 Newmar Mountainaire with Workhorse Chassis. It has been working fine but last week started to act up just like original poster in this thread. I watched it retract while under the coach and do not see any broken teeth. It just keeps going for 8-10 seconds after the steps are completely retracted and motor keeps trying to run and close it more.

Was there a resolution by original poster ? Can you share what the solution was ?

Thank you
Dean

[vettenuts]

Originally Posted by Caldwell54

I just started to have this same problem with the steps not retracting correctly on my 2005 Newmar Mountainaire with Workhorse Chassis. It has been working fine but last week started to act up just like original poster in this thread. I watched it retract while under the coach and do not see any broken teeth. It just keeps going for 8-10 seconds after the steps are completely retracted and motor keeps trying to run and close it more.

Was there a resolution by original poster ? Can you share what the solution was ?

Thank you
Dean

Likely the motor. There are internal parts that fail. Mine ran on but made some noise. New motor solved it. If you have the old metal controller they can short as well since they weren't well sealed. I assume you have the old Coach Step, which is what I have in mine.

[JPeterson]

The way steps know when to stop extending and retracting is in the controller. When the steps fully extend or retract, they hit a hard stop which causes the motor amperage to spike. The controller senses this current spike and shuts off the motor.

If your step motor is continuing to run after the steps are fully extended or retracted, there is either a mechanical slippage (probably in the gears attached to motor) or the the controller is malfunctioning. Since your steps work correctly in one direction and not the other, my bet would be on a stripped gear.

[Caldwell54]

Thanks Everyone for the advice. When you say you think a stripped gear, where would the gear be ? The large metal gear half moon shaped that seems to be the main metal gear driving the stair, or other gear ? Would also be great to hear from original poster if he found a final solution.

Thank you
Dean

[Dougjpr]

Update for you. Sorry for delay, been busy summer and just got stair issue sorted yesterday.

Culprit ended up being the motor, as was mentioned, there are some spacers in the gear between the nylon ring gear and the metal drive gear. There are 3 cylindrical spacers that sit in there. On the old motor they were badly worn. I suspect they were allowing the drive gear to slip causing the clunking at the top of the travel, however they didn't make same noise at bottom on deployment, so I could be off. Either way, new motor solved the issue.

Before the motor I had tried the controller, but that was not it.

Changing the motor can be a bit tricky as there are 3 bolts and 6 spacers to deal with.

On my first attempt, I could not get the bolts to line up, I also had no play in the stair gear.

Visually, the drive gear appeared to be slightly larger on the replacement. Thinking that was preventing the motor from aligning, I swapped out the drive gear, it is metal so no wear. It was when I opened up the old motor that I noticed the worn nylon spacers.

After swapping the gears, alignment was not much easier. Disconnected stairs from the drive, this allowed the large plate gear to move, this gave me just enough play to get all 3 bolts to align.

In order to ensure alignment, I first mounted motor without spacers so I could see bolt holes, I then added the spacers one bolt at a time so I always had 2 bolts in place.

Other thing I did not like was the way they route the wire. The original and the replacement both had the wire running between the motor body and the stair, causing the wires to become flattened out. Didn't look right to me, so I routed the wires away from the pinch point and secured with ty raps.

Stair works fine now. Hope this helps

[Caldwell54]

Thanks for posting your solution, very helpful ! Did you get your new motor from Newmar, or from another source ?

Thank you
Dean

[vettenuts]

I think I got it from etrailer.com. I had tried a Ford power window motor, didn’t last long. I also took my stairs apart last night so I can get them powder coated. I found a number of bronze bushings split and worn. Also found the helm joint bolt loose and one of the stair bolts loose. Ordered new bushings from etrailer.com. Loose and worn parts may be the source of my continuing issues.

[Dougjpr]

I got control module from Etrailer

Searched the motor part number on Amazon here in Canada and found one in Canadian dollars, so went with that. Got the part number from Lippert website under Coach Steps.

Buying parts for coach up here in Canada can be a challenge sometimes.

[Jpool]

The three little plastic window gear plugs generally when replaced take care of the stow issue. I have replaced mine a few times over the years and cures the issue each time and are available at the auto parts for around $3.00. I keep a set on hand at all times.