Storing Class A outdoors for Michigan Winter

[gmccausland]

I am the new owner of a used 38 foot Newmar Dutch Star Diesel Pusher. I am going to be forced to store it outdoors for the winter this year. It is not my preferred storage, but it is all I can do this year The storage yard is gravel and I was looking for experience from this board. I wondered if I should store the unit parked on wolmonized boards under the tires. Should I store it with the jacks up or down to take weight off the tires? It will be covered with a Tyvek cover and the internals and fuel winterized. We plan on starting it and generator running under load at least once a week(Will leave one house battery and both starting batteries in coach)

Question really is, does anyone else have opinions/answers to these questions? I figured a lot of you "senior" owners would have opinions and experiences to answer these questions.

Thanks to all of you in advance

Thanks

[JMonroe]

Sounds like you've got a handle on this, with one exception.

Do not start and run the engine over the winter. Unless you're going to take it for at least a 20 mile ride, you're doing more harm than good. The multiple cold starts (where most engine wear occurs), along with a failure to get the engine up to full operating temps, especially the oil, will cause more condensation and harmful acids to form.

My '99 Camaro 'sleeps' for 6 months every year, with no issues to date. So does my motor home.

[Romeo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmccausland I wondered if I should store the unit parked on wolmonized boards under the tires. Should I store it with the jacks up or down to take weight off the tires?Thanks

I have stored ours outside for the last two years. First year uncovered, second year covered with an RV cover.

I leave my batteries in, but keep shore pwr connected with the control panel in the "storage" mode and the battery disconnect switch disconnected. My batteries never needed water while keeping them charged with the shore pwr.

The first year when I didnot have the cover, I left the furnace on at a setting of about 40degs just to keep a little heat inside. I also used three dessicant type humidifiers to absorb moisture. The year that I had it covered I didnt use any heat since all the vent were covered so I couldnt use the furnace.

For the tires, my RV cover covers them nicely, and I use rubber mats under the tires. I like the idea of rubber rather than wood, which I considered. I bought two heavy rubber mats as shown in the photo and cut one section out of each of the mats which were just wide enough for the front tires, and used the remaining section of the mat for the rear dual tires (each mat had three sections).

I have read that it is good to take some of the weight off the tires when in storage so I do that with the jacks; just enough jack to relieve the full weight of the coach.

I winterize (which I am doing today) by blowing the water lines out with air, and pouring a little RV Antifreeze in all the traps and a little more black tank just in case it didnt drain completely. I dont put any in the freash water tank which makes it is easier to flush in the Spring.

[mikron]

I run the generator once a month under load while driving about 25 or more miles with my Ford V10. We live in Florida and can travel 12 montrhs a year. So we keep the coach at its ready. We keep the coach at a storage lot of grass. We keep the jacks down to help with the coach of the tires.

[GaryKD]

Hi Ron,
For me it would be to do what you have planned except for:
1. jacks up for a DP. (jacks down for a gas powered coach coach)
2. leave the engine and generator alone. Let them sleep.

[Romeo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryKD Hi Ron, For me it would be to do what you have planned except for: 1. jacks up for a DP. (jacks down for a gas powered coach coach)

Gary,

You cant just say that without explaining... come on explain. Especially since I told GmcCausland that it is good to take weight off the tires.

[powerboatr]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Romeo I have stored ours outside for the last two years. First year uncovered, second year covered with an RV cover. I leave my batteries in, but keep shore pwr connected with the control panel in the "storage" mode and the battery disconnect switch disconnected. My batteries never needed water while keeping them charged with the shore pwr. The first year when I didnot have the cover, I left the furnace on at a setting of about 40degs just to keep a little heat inside. I also used three dessicant type humidifiers to absorb moisture. The year that I had it covered I didnt use any heat since all the vent were covered so I couldnt use the furnace. For the tires, my RV cover covers them nicely, and I use rubber mats under the tires. I like the idea of rubber rather than wood, which I considered. I bought two heavy rubber mats as shown in the photo and cut one section out of each of the mats which were just wide enough for the front tires, and used the remaining section of the mat for the rear dual tires (each mat had three sections). I have read that it is good to take some of the weight off the tires when in storage so I do that with the jacks; just enough jack to relieve the full weight of the coach. I winterize (which I am doing today) by blowing the water lines out with air, and pouring a little RV Antifreeze in all the traps and a little more black tank just in case it didnt drain completely. I dont put any in the freash water tank which makes it is easier to flush in the Spring.

i have 6 of those panels i used in the pickup and now adorn the floor of the barn.....
till i saw your post, i never thought about putting em under the tires.
thanks

[gmccausland]

Thanks for the comments. All very good. I never thought about the engine running to temp. Good idea. Also, the rubber mat Idea is very good as well.

Thanks to everyone that responded. I appreciate the help.

[Purplefans & Harvey]

So, why jacks down on gas? It's our first year with the Class A - we've stored the class C outside, plugged in, each year. Having our Class A winterized as we speak, checking the roof etc., but we don't usually cover it. What's different between Class C and A that we should know?

[GaryKD]

Hi Ron,
How nice of you to ask for additional information.

For a gas coach (no air suspension) having the jacks down takes static weight off the spring suspension. As for a DP, it would sit on the frame. As to taking weight off the tires, for me, this "need" is an urban legend. I've winter stored coaches from upstate NY to Georgia and places in between. Never had a problem with tires. This includes bias ply (the good days back in the 70s and 80s) and radial tires. If you contact Michelin they will tell you there is no problem with their tires carrying the static weight for the winter.

[Romeo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryKD For a gas coach (no air suspension) having the jacks down takes static weight off the spring suspension. As for a DP, it would sit on the frame. As to taking weight off the tires, for me, this "need" is an urban legend.

OK, thanks Gary,

At least it doesnt cause a problem to use jacks down during storage.

[bdaball]

Don't forget the dryer sheets spread everywhere and anywhere you think critters could get into.

If you are going to have power, plug in a couple of the plug in type rodent repellers. They do work.

My vote is DO NOT start the engine. Unless of course you plan on driving it at full temperature for a good deal of time.

[radams]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryKD Hi Ron, For me it would be to do what you have planned except for: 1. jacks up for a DP. (jacks down for a gas powered coach coach) 2. leave the engine and generator alone. Let them sleep.

Hey Gary -

Read your response on the jacks and think it makes eminent sense. Can you elaborate on your second statement about letting the engine and generator "sleep"?

Thank you
Bob

[Romeo]

I addition.... I use a plastic pill bottle with several holes drilled in the top and filled with moth balls. I put this in the water heater compartment to scare away those pesky little spiders that make cottony webs in tiny orifices.