Surge Protector - Portable or inline?

[JerryKelly]

My 5 year old portable Surge Guard just stopped working. Afer it checks for low/ high voltage, it does not allow power to the MH. Niether the red fault light nor the green ok light comes on. I checked each power leg and each has around 125 volts. Combined I am getting around 250, which is well within the SurgeGuard tolerances for over/under.

I need to decide if I should go with a new portable unit or one that is installed between the transfer switch and fuse panel. With the recent failure of the portable unit, I am inclinded to replace it with another portable. However, what protects my electronics and appliances when using the generator? I am considering the Progressive Industries 50 amp unit that provides surge protection, checks polarity, LOW/High voltage, AC delay, and other features.

In over 5 years, I have never experienced a power problem where my SurgeGuard blocked power.

[JerryKelly]

My 5 year old portable Surge Guard just stopped working. Afer it checks for low/ high voltage, it does not allow power to the MH. Niether the red fault light nor the green ok light comes on. I checked each power leg and each has around 125 volts. Combined I am getting around 250, which is well within the SurgeGuard tolerances for over/under.

I need to decide if I should go with a new portable unit or one that is installed between the transfer switch and fuse panel. With the recent failure of the portable unit, I am inclinded to replace it with another portable. However, what protects my electronics and appliances when using the generator? I am considering the Progressive Industries 50 amp unit that provides surge protection, checks polarity, LOW/High voltage, AC delay, and other features.

In over 5 years, I have never experienced a power problem where my SurgeGuard blocked power.

[oemtech]

I install an in line. It protects both inputs (gen/shore) if wired correctly. You also don't have to lock it up all the time.

I did a writeup on my install. Link Here

[Route 66]

One of the big advantages of the hardwired unit is the indoor display.

You can tell what's going on without going outside.

The indoor display is also handy for watching your loads when on 30 amp service.

[Dav5942]

Best of both worlds Progressive Ind. 50amp inline/"hardwired" that can be removed with plugs(can be wired with or without Genny), with two displays-one indoors and one in the power compartment! Easy installation plugs and cable are available at local hardware. Great for easy removal upon failure(have seen two fail). Have also seen Genny put out between 50 and 270 volts-luckily did not destroy anything.

ATME-mods

[NLOVNIT]

DH hardwired the Progressive surge guards on our last 2 rv's. Wouldn't have it any other way. Like Dirk states, the inside display panel is great for monitoring without having to traipse outside.

As for protecting appliances/electronics while on generator, from what my dealer techs have told me & from what I've read on this forum, generator power is so reliable it's not necessary to protect for surges/low power from that. I think what's important is to protect the transfer switch (as well as your appliances/electronics on shore power). That's one expensive switch to have to replace if it gets zapped.

L-

[Bill Barclay]

Was in shop last week having HW50A installed. Guy in next bay was having MH repaired from accidently plugging into 220/240a service without HW50A or equivalent. He estimated $2-3,000 damage. Makes my $5-600 installed price look small. By the way, where does the second remote plug into the unit? I only see 1-telephone wire connection for 1-remote that I used for the inside remote. Thanks.

[JerryKelly]

Updte:

I found out that my Surge Guard is working as designed. I rechecked my pedestal and found out that I have 122V on one leg and 127-128V on the second leg. The Surge Guard will shut down power at 128V. Now I need to figure out why I am getting 128V on the second leg. My home power pedestal has been working fine for 5 years with the same Surge Guard. Could it be the breaker to the pedastal? My electricial initially wired it with a GFCI breaker. Not sure what has changed to cause this.

By the way, I spoke with Newmar customer service this morning and was advised that the transfer box should be surge protected and power from the generator is generally reliable. I have a call into my tech at Bridgeway Cummins-Onan to discuss this issue. Perhaps we need two devices?

Update: According to Prgressive Industries, the surge protector should be installed before the transfer box. No need to protect power from the generator.

[RVDude]

jerry: Under load your 128v will certainly drop... The Surge Guard will not trip instantly on detecting a nominal over/under-voltage, there is a time delay.
Given that these devices are typically hard wired between the 50amp cord and the transfer switch your switch is protected. The genset typically goes directly into the transfer switch.

[RVDude]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bill Barclay:
having MH repaired from accidentally plugging into 220/240a service </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Huh? 50amp service by code is typically 220/240vAC, it can also be only 120vAC but that is more the exception. Either way is no problem. Hence, I don't understand what happened to to the guy next to you by plugging into a standard 50amp 220v pedestal? (Of course, a 220v 30amp RV plug would be a bit of a problem and clearly wired off code - meaning liability on the plug owner's part.)

[RVDude]

dav
I am guessing the foreground plug in your most excellent solution is the hot directly from the power cord? Do I notice that it is also a male plug - meaning hot spades if cord is plugged in?

["007"]

If you can reach another 50 amp pedestal plug your 50 amp cord in to check your own setup. I had a problem with CG pedestal with two 50 amp plugs and the other plugin was ok just the one assigned to my lot was defective. I wired my Gen and shore line thru SP but just the shore line will be just fine for most of your use.

[K-Star]

Yes, 50A is 220/240 (110/120 on each of the 2 legs).

I have the portable and now wish I had purchased the hardwired. Like said earlier it will protect both power an generator power and is more secure.

[Spikester]

To me its a simple matter of logistics. If you have enough room in your electrical power compartment to install the surge protector on the discharge of your transfer switch so you get protection on the shore power and generator side, then I would suggest that is the preferred type and method of installation. If you do not have the room to accomplish that type of permanent installation then the portable protector is your answer. Look at this way also, if you purchase one that give the most protection you have $400 invested, with a portable at least you can take it with you when you decide to trade MH's. Also with a permanently wired/installed surge protector if the protector goes bad you have a considerable amount of wiring to undo just to get power to your coach until you can replace the existing surge protector.

Spike