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Old 01-19-2019, 01:15 PM   #43
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Great writeup. I had to go thru it a few times with the picture, but if I have to, I now have a good idea how to do this.
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:19 PM   #44
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Hi Ken - You forgot the part about praying that the check valve above the pump is really sealing. :>) Good explanation!


Tom
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:33 PM   #45
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Hi Ken - You forgot the part about praying that the check valve above the pump is really sealing. :>) Good explanation!


Tom
FAITH TOM, A LITTLE FAITH!!
And now you know what the second set of Pinch Pliers are for!!
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:50 PM   #46
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Larry,
Ken & Anita 2011 Newmar Essex,4522,Cummins 500 ISM,2013 CRV,RVI2 Brake with TPMS **Our Travel WebSite**
I was curious enough to click on the link in your signature line, "Our Travel WebSite." Let me give viewers a shout out for this remarkable photo journal of your travels. Wow!
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Old 01-23-2019, 06:37 AM   #47
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Stealth1...I find it interesting that no one else has talked about replacing the hoses when replacing the pumps. Makes good sense, particularly if the hoses show evidence of needing it. I've found that my local NAPA carries the 1/2" heater hose by the foot. Tell us how you avoid a "bigger mess" when removing the hoses, rather than pinching them off. I'd like to know your procedure, as I may be doing this project tomorrow. Many thanks! Larry
My pump was only around 6 months old when it failed and the hose was difficult to get off because of the compression and swelling of the hose at the clamp.

Not a bad idea to have a piece of hose before you start the job just in case it needs changing.

Be smart about how you pinch the old hose and then connect the new hose and you will not have much of a mess. It will only leak from one side because of the check valve. Have some rags available to absorb any leakage.

I didn't have pinch pliers when I changed mine. Plugged the hose with one of those fat sharpie pens after I realized the fluid wasn't going to stop.
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:32 AM   #48
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Thanks Ken. Good to have those helpful hints when this comes up. I have not yet had to replace a pump, but have a spare ready.

One note, on the Newmar 4310 models, since it has a Oasis NE-S, it does not have a distribution box... It is all in one unit. The reason the 4310 is different is it comes with two full baths and they provided a bigger Oasis to provide enough hot water to run both at the same time...

Just a note to others with a 4310.

Thanks again!
Rich
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:05 PM   #49
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SPECIAL NOTICE TO READERS OF THIS THREAD...Yesterday I received from ITR my new pump to replace my "BAD" Summer Loop Pump (SLP). Having everything ready and waiting for the install, I chose to "test" things again. I've had a concern all along that just maybe a lot of "PROBLEM" pumps were not in fact "bad", that there was another problem, such as the check valve. I proceeded to TURN OFF the Bypass Switch, which I had turned ON, awaiting my new pump. I then turned on the Oasis AC switch and a Hot Water faucet. When I approached the opened Distribution Module (DM) all was very quiet, unlike when I initially checked out my problem. I put my hand on the SLP and felt that it was operating as it should, "purring", not making the "noise" as before. For several minutes I left it this way, with the HOT water flowing, at no time COLD. Next, I switched to the Oasis BURNER and all continued the same, with even hotter water flowing, no letup. I put my hand on the SLP again and it was continuing to run as NORMAL, quietly "purring". For the first time I tapped on the the SLP's check valve (since others had done this and their SLP began operating as it should) and nothing changed. Rather, the SLP continued to operate seemingly flawlessly. Almost four hours later, everything is operating as normal...Bypass Switch OFF and Oasis AC ON. Things may well change; however, at the moment I have a new pump at the cost of almost $300., to likely have use for one day (who knows, maybe today!). I want to STRESS that I went "overboard" in trying to be certain that my SLP was BAD and in need of REPLACEMENT. In describing my symptoms to ITR and this forum I was led to order a replacement pump. I cannot explain why my pump began operating as normal, after having run the hot water system with the bypass switch ON for several days. I'm to understand from some that if the SLP is "bad" a fuse with blow and a red light with appear. Always? That
was not my case. My point in this writing is to inform all as to the STATUS of my situation, and maybe MORE IMPORTANTLY to STRESS to ALL...DO NOT be too quick in throwing out the OLD pump, but assume as long as reasonable it may NOT be a BAD pump, but something else, such as a CHECK VALVE that needs a "good tapping". Perhaps I should speak to this "Caution" in another thread, as well? As I stated at the outset, I truly feel that many "good" & costly pumps are being being unnecessarly trashed. I welcome your feedback & will keep you posted as to the "new life" of my "bad" Summer Loop Pump. Regards, Larry
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Old 01-25-2019, 02:22 PM   #50
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Larry,
HANG ON TO THAT PUMP!! I fought with a Loop 2 pump for a year before it hard failed and stayed failed!! The original pumps use magnetic coupling to drive the impeller. If you look at the photo that was the impeller shaft which split open allowing the impeller to spin freely from the motor drive shaft. If yours is failing in this mode it will stop again!!
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Old 01-25-2019, 02:40 PM   #51
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Another point for all Oasis users... I was helping a friend with a similar issue, he lost a loop 2 pump, no heat in the bedroom/bathroom. A week later he lost hot water, turned on the “purge switch” and he had hot water... OK, that’s a bad Summer Loop Pump... Not so fast... PAY ATTENTION, THIS IS WHERE IT GET’S INTERESTING: I asked him to verify the servicing of his Oasis Reservoir... He found the “reservoir standpipe” broken!! The 90 degree elbow on the standpipe was broken sucking air instead of fluid! He did a temporary repair, replacing the plastic elbow with A brass elbow. He then serviced the reservoir AND turned on the “Bleed Switch” and left it on. He also found a fluid leak at the front heat exchanger. So, what we have is a leak in the boiler fluid distribution system and an air leak in the reservoir system... Hence the Oasis system was introducing air instead of fluid as it tried to replenish the lost fluid... His system consumed over a quart of fluid in the next week with the “Bleed Switch” in the on position. As of yesterday, with the Bleed Switch OFF the hot water system is working AND the Loop 2 heat, Bedroom and Bathroom is working normally. Moral of the story CHECK YOUR RESERVOIR!! Confirm adequate level of fluid AND the reservoir connections integrity!!
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:07 PM   #52
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Great information, Ken. This system is mighty complex to many of our minds. How do you begin to explain my "bad" Summer Loop Pump being "good" again? Know of a case where temporarily running with the ByPass Switch On for hot water, then when turning it OFF, ALL is running smoothly again? I had not yet tapped on the Check Valve, which in many cases (I understand) resolves the issue, at least temporarily. As I've said, I'm at a total loss to explain why my pump has "decided" to run "normally". I certainly would feel good knowing that ALL would possibly benefit at some point, having this information, i.e., "not all bad pumps are bad". Larry
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:26 PM   #53
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Larry,
Reread my post #50... That pump worked on and off for a year because of the way it was failing.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:29 AM   #54
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Larry,

Reread my post #50... That pump worked on and off for a year because of the way it was failing.


Ken,

Many thanks for posting your research and wisdom on the Oasis. I can now connect the dots on my intermittent failure mode! ITR replaced my SLP under warranty so I didn’t have the opportunity to disassemble the failed pump as I had to return same. Both your experiences - failed pump and your friend’s issue - are important pieces of knowledge for us DIYers!

Thanks again

Quinton
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Old 02-02-2019, 08:22 AM   #55
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Unquestionably, it WAS a bad Summer Loop Pump. Feeling strongly that it was not the problem, I put it off until giving in a couple days ago. Now, there is hot water like I don't recall having for a long time. I did not replace the hose, but think next time I will, as I believe all will go quicker to just cut off the old hose. Plan, also, to have screw-type clamps handy, to rid of some of the hassle working with the current type. The biggest concern will be stopping as much as possible the flow of coolant/ fluid. Thanks to all for sharing your experiences and ideas...many likely benefited. Larry
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:40 AM   #56
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Larry, you are sure to have gotten some bubbles in the system. I found that turning the burner and the electric off to let the system completely cool down a couple times will help the system draw fluid from the reservoir. Keep an eye on the reservoir level and be sure to use the correct fluid to refill it.
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