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Old 03-31-2018, 05:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotten-Red View Post
I'm confused about the wiring.
The cut off wires are green (right turn), brown (marker), and white (ground). The burnt component has yellow, black, and white. Both going in and out. Is that anymore than just a connector? Did you open it up to see what is in there? Where does it hook into the green, brown, and white wires?
I did not show the crimp on connectors. Here is the connection:

FreightLiner White (labelled GND) to black lead on burnt component.
FreightLiner Green (labelled RT TRN) to yellow lead on burnt component
FreightLiner Brown (labelled MKR) to white lead on burnt component
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:51 AM   #16
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Continued to evaluate this failure. I removed the failed component (which I think is likely a diode pack) and tested the LED light. The light does not work. So I think it is possible the LED light failed with an internal short which in turn burned up the diodes up stream.

As I stated in an earlier post, I also found electrical problems on the wiring of the TOAD which I figured was related to this event. Now I don't think so.

The FreightLiner electrical interface to the trailer plug is very robust. All electrical components wired to the coach via the trailer hitch plug pass through the junction box located by the chassis battery disconnect. Every circuit is protected by a relay in the box with associated fuse. So there is no direct connection between the lighting wiring of the coach and the lighting on the TOAD. It is all protected with relays.

I found everything was working up to pins of the trailer connector. After a few hours of head scratching I finally determined the cable connecting the coach to the TOAD had problems. When I disassembled the connectors I found all the wires were secured to connectors using screws compressing the wires just like the situation in the surge/transfer box. Most of my screws were loose. A couple had actually fallen out.

The electrical cable is bouncing all the time moving down the highway so it is no surprise over the years these screws would loosen up. No real fire hazard here but it will cause intermittent problems with the lights on the TOAD.

Good news is that the TOAD problems were not related to the lighting failure on the coach.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:42 PM   #17
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Don’t l.e.d. Lamps require resistors? Freight liner wouldn’t know if Newmar would instal incandescent or l.e.d. lamps.
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:53 PM   #18
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The story continues. Not wanting to make this failure the reason to make my first visit to a Newmar dealer since purchasing the coach I continued the investigation. So far I have been able to fix everything since delivery. Wanted to keep the string alive. So I decided to disassemble the right LED Marker/Turn signal LED in order to figure out what failed.

The NA Marker/Turn signal LED is an eyebrow light above and around the fog light. It is a very distinctive light making the NA easy to spot at night. Below is the functioning left light in turn signal mode.



The silver trim is held in place with VHB double sided tape which comes off easily. Under and below the trim is a plastic diffuser held in place with three self tapping screws. Under the plastic diffuser is an typical white/orange LED strip held in place with adhesive on the back of the strip. Once I got the diffuser off everything made sense.

Newmar had pierced the LED strip in two places with self tapping screws. Based on the paint marks, they paint the coach then install the accent lights.

I removed the LED strip which had 3 leads: ground, +12v and "W". The strip contained alternating white and orange lights. White for marker lights and orange for turn signals. +12 lead ran the white lights.

These LED strips come in repeating segments which can be cut. So I simply cut out the segments at each end damaged by the screws and the LED light worked again when I hooked it up to power.

I ordered a new white/orange LED string on Amazon. I will see if it matches the old strip. If not, I will just glue the old strip back on and use it with a few less LED's than it originally had.

So here is what I think happened. Newmar put a screw(s) into the LED strip during manufacturing causing a short which over time heated up a resistor that ultimately failed months later shorting out the turn signal circuit. Once I cut the leads to the LED's turn signal worked fine, minus the LED eyebrow light which is one of three lights that blink up front on each side for turn signaling.
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:18 AM   #19
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If they shorted it with a screw the effect should have been instantaneous and obvious on the first power up after installation. More likely it was a manufacturing defect in the LED assembly. They happen.
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:29 AM   #20
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If they shorted it with a screw the effect should have been instantaneous and obvious on the first power up after installation. More likely it was a manufacturing defect in the LED assembly. They happen.
You would think so. But it is very clear the damaged section from the screw was the problem. LED did not work after the event, when I removed the damaged section of the LED strip on the bench, it worked. My guess is the screw damaged the circuit traces initially but without full short. Then over time with thermal cycling and vibration the screw finally crossed into a full short on the LED traces.

The good news is that this lighting fixture is not a sealed assembly, just a series of parts applied to the front mask making field repair very easy even without documentation. Given the location on the front mask it is obviously in a place where it may have to be repaired.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:00 PM   #21
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Great job with the detective work. Really appreciate your posts.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:31 PM   #22
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Great job with the detective work. Really appreciate your posts.
Thanks. Put everything back together today with original parts and new VHB tape. Old LED string works fine with damaged 3 segments of LED clipped out.

Marker and turn signal working normally.
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