The stock 12 volt wire on the 7-way plug.

[BPoland]

We have a 2014 Bay Star that I am in the process of setting up the connections between it, and our 2015 Jeep Cherokee. My plan is to use an Rvi Brake for the auxilary braking of the Jeep. I know that I will probably need to install some kind of a toad charge setup to keep the Jeep's battery topped off. Our coach is still in storage, so I thought I would ask the experts. Is the 12 volt line in the stock 7-way connecter on the Bay Star heavy enough to supply a Toad charge setup for the Jeep, or should I plan on running a separate heavier line from up front and just replace the stock 12 volt wire? Given the distance (30 feet), I would probably go with a 10 or 12 AWG. Am I over thinking.... again?

What are your thoughts?

[BFlinn181]

I suggest you use a meter and read the voltage at the connector with the engine running. If it puts out 13.4 v or more, then the wire is not losing enough voltage to prevent a charging current for the Jeep battery. The current draw shouldn't be enough to require a heavy gauge wire, the load will be to maintain the battery, not charge it from a 'dead' state.

In addition, I suggest you invest in a couple of auto reset circuit breakers and wire them into the hot wire before the bumper socket in the RV and between the connector on the Jeep and it's battery. This is to prevent a shorting condition that could create heat. 15-20 amp capacity should be enough to allow charging without creating such an imbalance of voltages, when starting the RV engine, for instance, that it could over draw from the Jeep battery. A diode could be included in the circuit to prevent drawing current from the Jeep, but a couple of auto reset CB should do the same thing.

[PDR John]

It's heavy enough, that's what it's there for.

["007"]

Here are some towing wiring setups that may help and the extra wiring from rear plug is near steering wheel maybe in plastic bag dash area.

[HicksRA]

Not sure about your Bay Star, but I was surprised to find that there is no 12v wire tied into the 7 way plug on my 05 DSDP. The factory did not run one. I had to run a new wire into the plug to supply 12v from it over to my toad for charging its battery. I figure if it's even a trickle, it should help keep the battery up.
This is what I installed on mine:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BFlinn181]

The Amazon product isn't really needed. If the toad battery is full and the RV chassis battery(ies) are full, the voltage regulator connected to the alternator will reduce charging voltage to prevent battery 'over-charge.'
When starting the RV engine, due to the heavy drain on the RV battery, the voltage could momentarily drop and cause the toad battery to feed voltage back through the charge wire to the RV. That's why I suggest using auto reset circuit breakers in the connection. Not only do they protect from shorts, they limit how much current will flow in either direction.

[HicksRA]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

The Amazon product isn't really needed. If the toad battery is full and the RV chassis battery(ies) are full, the voltage regulator connected to the alternator will reduce charging voltage to prevent battery 'over-charge.'
When starting the RV engine, due to the heavy drain on the RV battery, the voltage could momentarily drop and cause the toad battery to feed voltage back through the charge wire to the RV. That's why I suggest using auto reset circuit breakers in the connection. Not only do they protect from shorts, they limit how much current will flow in either direction.

Basically, all the Amazon product is is a unit with a diode (to prevent backwards voltage) and a fuse in a neat package. I knew I could "rig" something up, but this was a quick and easy way to do what I wanted. I also added a small led so I can look and be assured the voltage is flowing.

[MikeandClaudia]

HicksRA: I used one too. Must be a Texas thang. ;~)

Of course, I'm the kinda guy that wears a belt and suspenders. Go figure.

It works for me.

[gwiz]

Hey I am working on the same thing too. 2013 Baystar and a 2013 CRV. I plan on using the same brake system too. Let us know when you have it done.

[LongDogRanch]

BPoland....I towed a 2013 Wrangler Sport behind our Canyon Star for two years using the RvI2 brake system and did NOT have a battery charging system coming from the CS connector. Never had a charging system at all and also NEVER had a dead battery at the end of the day of towing. We put approx. 11,000 miles on the Jeep using the RVi2. Nice brake system IMHO. Can't speak for the Cherokee but thought you may appreciate this info. seeing as our toad was also a Jeep. (However, traded the Jeep this week for a GMC Terrain. Had enough of the rough ride the Wrangler gave us. Nothing like the Cherokee and Grand Cherokees we've owned in the past. ) Good luck with your setup.

[BPoland]

Thank you all for the replies. The Bay Star ends her winter hibernation this weekend, and first trip out is next week. The weather is saying showers, but I would rather be out in showers than at home being a couch potato. I'll throw a volt meter on the 7 way and see what kind of voltage I get at the back.

Wiring - Done (95%)
Tow Bar - Aventa LX - Done
Base Plate. Blue Ox- Install Monday
Aux Brake - Rvi Brake2. - delivery Monday

It finally feels lts coming together!

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by gwiz

Hey I am working on the same thing too. 2013 Baystar and a 2013 CRV. I plan on using the same brake system too. Let us know when you have it done.

In addition to the Charge Line you might also want to consider replacing the OEM Overgrown Motorcycle Battery with a real battery. No more dead battery issues and get the charging system software update.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/dead-...-231836-2.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/2013-...te-235335.html

[JerryP]

Most of this post was a response in another thread about the Orange and black wires that run from under the drivers dash back to wiring harness near the 7 pin trailer plug. The wires stop 1 foot from the trailer plug. The rest of this response seemed like it belonged in this thread too. Regards, Jerry

-------------------------------

I have just completed adding a power wire to my 7 pin trailer plug. I will use this wire to charge the battery on my Toad (Toyota Tacoma). My Tacoma is wired with an RVI "Towed Battery Charger". This charger will draw a maximum of 15 AMPS at 12V. Normally it pulls much less.

The orange and black wires route up under the drivers dash near the emergency brake release. Mine had a label that said "Tow Plug Trailer Wiring". I used the orange wire to run my power to the Toad. You have to dis-assemble the trailer Plug. All pins except one will have a wire attached. The empty plug pin matches the standard for the +12V trailer power feed. I attached the orange wire to this pin. My trailer plug was attached to the coach with pop rivets. These will need to be drilled out and replaced with #10 machine screws. You will also need a couple of feet of 14 gauge stranded wire to extend the Orange wire. You can buy this wire by the foot at Home Depot. (they sell Orange wire too)

There is another bundle of 5 or 6 wires under my dash. These are for wiring a Trailer Brake controller. The Blue wire in this bundle also runs back to the trailer plug. It is connected to the standard brake controller pin.

Getting the +12V power under the dash is pretty easy on my Baystar. Newmar has an auxiliary fuse box located under the dash just above the drivers left foot. It's a rectangular box with several automotive fuses installed. There are several open slots for fuses. I picked an "AUX" fuse position near the bottom of the fuse box. It was also labeled 15A. Just to the edge of the fuse is a lug that a spade lug will push over. These are standard crimp on lugs that you can get at any auto store or Home Depot. Crimp a lug on the Orange wire. Push the spade lug over the lug post on the fuse box. I installed a 15 AMP fuse in the AUX position. This 15 AMP fuse matches the wire gauge and trailer plug current capacities. I ordered a special fuse that is resetable. If an overload occurs, the fuse opens up. When the overload fault clears, the fuse restores itself. A regular fuse should work too. The 12V is only active when the ignition is on. When you turn the key off, the 12V is removed.

I went through several complicated options before I discovered this approach. It is actually pretty simple.

Hope this helps.

Jerry - 2013 Bay Star 3002

[gwiz]

Again thanks for the detail