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Old 03-28-2019, 05:45 PM   #99
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As the one who started the post because our 18 London Aire had loss bolts you have made one of the best first post I can remember. By being a RV owner (Newmar) we owns have a wealth of information to assist our fellow owners and that is the reason irv2 and the Newmar forum are great. As a senior member we Thank You for your post. I follow irv2 almost ever day and even after 22 years of Newmar ownership I learn something new almost every day.
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:29 PM   #100
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I was wondering about the slotted bracket holes myself. It does not seem to be a good design for handling rotational forces. I'm wondering about putting a Nordlok washer between the housing and the bracket with the teeth to the bracket. That might help spread the force over a larger area and help negate the slotted hole issue.

TJ
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:55 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sideburns View Post

ps..... I'm documenting the build dimensions and process incase I have the opportunity to build more of these things for others. I think this design will solve the weak housing problem and the bracket issue without limiting the flex too much.

-Ryan
Hey Ryan ... looking forward to pics of your project. Yup ... I think the motor should be in a cage/box. Loose bolts are one thing but tearing the bosses off when bolts are tight is a different issue. A properly adjusted controller should not allow that much torque.

Your observations are correct. There are many factors.

Here's a few things that affect the slides.
1) the slide weight should be reduced if possible. Don't load the drawers and cabinets with heavy objects. If you must store china, books, and other heavy stuff, use the slide without flat-floor (the one that doesn't drop down) ...it's too hard a lift on the ramp of a flat-floor slide.
2) if the controller is adjustable, set it as low (torque) as possible and still able to climb the ramp.
3) make sure the transtorque bearing is correctly adjusted,
4) if electric paddle locks are installed, set the torque as low as possible ... don't cam the slide down onto the floor. It doesn't require much force to seal the slide.
5) make sure the floor rollers and the beveled "lift" area are clean.
6) don't let the end of the slide hit the seat!
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Old 03-28-2019, 07:31 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Tranquil Jim View Post
I was wondering about the slotted bracket holes myself. It does not seem to be a good design for handling rotational forces. I'm wondering about putting a Nordlok washer between the housing and the bracket with the teeth to the bracket. That might help spread the force over a larger area and help negate the slotted hole issue.

TJ

That's part of the SLS sandwich approach.


Each bolt is replaced with a Loctited stud that doesn't apply force to the housing ... it's just screwed in tight enough to hold it in place. Then a flange nut is screwed onto the stud with the teeth toward the mounting bracket. Then a Nordlock on the stud against the flange nut. Repeat for all 4 studs. Then pull the gearbox up to the bracket. Put a Nordlock and flange nut on each stud (other side of bracket ... away from gearbox ... teeth toward Nordlock). Tighten the outside nut(s) while holding the inside nut with a wrench. The inside nut should touch the boss but not be tightened against the boss (on the gearbox). The result should be the gearbox is square to the bracket but no horizontal tension on the bosses. The sandwich of flange nuts/Nordlocks covers the slots and secures the studs without tension on the bosses ... the gearbox is "hanging" on the studs. The studs are clamped to the bracket. All of the clamping pressure is between the nuts/washers. NO clamping pressure is applied to the gearbox.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:11 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post
That's part of the SLS sandwich approach.


Each bolt is replaced with a Loctited stud that doesn't apply force to the housing ... it's just screwed in tight enough to hold it in place. Then a flange nut is screwed onto the stud with the teeth toward the mounting bracket. Then a Nordlock on the stud against the flange nut. Repeat for all 4 studs. Then pull the gearbox up to the bracket. Put a Nordlock and flange nut on each stud (other side of bracket ... away from gearbox ... teeth toward Nordlock). Tighten the outside nut(s) while holding the inside nut with a wrench. The inside nut should touch the boss but not be tightened against the boss (on the gearbox). The result should be the gearbox is square to the bracket but no horizontal tension on the bosses. The sandwich of flange nuts/Nordlocks covers the slots and secures the studs without tension on the bosses ... the gearbox is "hanging" on the studs. The studs are clamped to the bracket. All of the clamping pressure is between the nuts/washers. NO clamping pressure is applied to the gearbox.
I didn't spend much time yesterday looking over the motor/square shaft interface; when all four bolts are removed, does the motor just slide along the square shaft, or does the shaft have to be disconnected to move the motor away from the bracket?

TJ
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:47 PM   #104
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After replacing 3 motors along with damaged slide out parts I can say yes to having to disconnect the shaft assembly. That why I purchased a 1 1/2 inch crows foot tool to be able to remove shaft drive which needs to be torqued to 150 ft. lbs. A lot of work and money.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:50 PM   #105
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After replacing 3 motors along with damaged slide out parts I can say yes to having to disconnect the shaft assembly. That why I purchased a 1 1/2 inch crows foot tool to be able to remove shaft drive which needs to be torqued to 150 ft. lbs. A lot of work and money.
Newmar Man
I was afraid of that! So much for simple.

TJ
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:43 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post
That's part of the SLS sandwich approach.


Each bolt is replaced with a Loctited stud that doesn't apply force to the housing ... it's just screwed in tight enough to hold it in place. Then a flange nut is screwed onto the stud with the teeth toward the mounting bracket. Then a Nordlock on the stud against the flange nut. Repeat for all 4 studs. Then pull the gearbox up to the bracket. Put a Nordlock and flange nut on each stud (other side of bracket ... away from gearbox ... teeth toward Nordlock). Tighten the outside nut(s) while holding the inside nut with a wrench. The inside nut should touch the boss but not be tightened against the boss (on the gearbox). The result should be the gearbox is square to the bracket but no horizontal tension on the bosses. The sandwich of flange nuts/Nordlocks covers the slots and secures the studs without tension on the bosses ... the gearbox is "hanging" on the studs. The studs are clamped to the bracket. All of the clamping pressure is between the nuts/washers. NO clamping pressure is applied to the gearbox.
I was wondering about the fit between a serrated fastener (nut or bolt) & the serrations on the Nord-lock washers. Seems that the Nord-lock serrations would make better contact with a non-serrated surface. So I called Nord-lock tech support & asked. Nord-lock confirmed that using their lock washer with non-serrated fasteners was preferred. Maybe a subtle distinction, but every little bit helps improve performance.
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Old 03-29-2019, 03:30 AM   #107
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Thanks for all the kind words, and a warm welcome!

Now that the bedroom slide stop rod bracket is repaired with a new 12 in long very reinforced bolt in bracket (didnt want to weld in the bedroom), controllers adjusted (was cranked too high) and slide stops adjusted....Ive moved on to the dining room slide motor housing reinforcement project.

Our motor housing was damaged, and we are waiting on the new motor to arrive, but the old cracked motor housing is coming in handy for mock up and fabbing a reinforcement brace.

I prob should start a new thread on this project, as to not hijack this one? I may get a little picture heavy....

Here's the bedroom repairs pics...... and the reinforcement project progress pic.

till next time

-Ryan
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Old 03-30-2019, 04:04 PM   #108
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Thanks for the reminder. I did my bedroom slide and did a half turn on all 4.
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Old 03-30-2019, 06:26 PM   #109
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My kitchen slide bolts were still tight but the bedroom bolts needed a half turn each.

It's clear to me now that this will be a semi annual maintenance item - which is OK with me. It's not that big of a deal to check those bolts if that helps to avoid a catastrophic failure.
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:33 PM   #110
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Time to check your slide out motor bolts again

Today I checked the bolts on my 2018 DS 4369 KITCHEN Slide. This is what I found;
*The bolts (8) were 5/16 18 3/4 inch and they have a built in flange that has grip like a Nord-loc washer

* There is a washer between the motor legs and the bracket
*They had lock tight
*I checked the depth of the motor mounting ad it was close to 3/4 of an inch
*The bracket they mount to is replaceable without welding
**Here is the most important thing I learned, at first I check to see if the bolts were tight with the slide all the way out, they were tight, then I put the slide 1/2 way in and to my surprise checked the bolts again and they were much looser. I believe that under tension (in or out) You get a false feeling of tight. Stuart W
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:36 PM   #111
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Good info and makes sense, check while not under load!
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Old 05-04-2019, 02:22 PM   #112
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Good info and makes sense, check while not under load!



I would also guess that the worst case for a false reading, in an older RV with paddle locks, would be retracted and locked. I know mine puts counter force on the rollers when the paddles lock. I think I'll recheck mine 1/2 way out.
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