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Old 01-31-2014, 01:25 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by SmokyRV View Post
It is my understanding that the safety chains are to be criss crossed under the tow bar. That would protect the bar if the hitch broke away from the RV.

Is that correct?
I dont think it would really matter if it comes unhooked there is gonna be a lotta more damage to deal with !
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:02 PM   #16
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It is my understanding that the safety chains are to be criss crossed under the tow bar. ?
If the chains are criss crossed and depending on where the break may occur, there is a chance that the tow bar remains suspended and it won't dig into the road / pavement. You will still have the damage but hopefully not as bad.

Yes criss cross.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:13 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by SmokyRV View Post
It is my understanding that the safety chains are to be criss crossed under the tow bar. That would protect the bar if the hitch broke away from the RV.

Is that correct?
That picture was taken at the dealership. I cross under and spiral wrap the cables.

Here's pics of the SMI AF1 box install at the radiator. Also the orange fuse holder is powered from the rig.

Also pic of cylinder installation under the dash.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:59 PM   #18
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Regarding crossing the safety chains, Required on commercial vehicles by law in many cases. This is indeed so the safety chains will cradle the tow bar or trailer hitch.. Did not work when my hitch failed.. But that's how I hook up anyway.

Did about a thousand in damage to the towed when it broke.

On edit: I have had the hitch break twice, second time no damage to the towed... NEITHER time was it the fault of the tow bar.. It was something else that failed up-from the two bar (Different things) The 1st time the tow bar was damaged secondary to the failure,, And Blue Ox replaced it even though it very clearly not the problem.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:08 PM   #19
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I tow a 2013 Ram Laramie behind my rig. I use the Ready Brute Elite hookup. Had a mechanic friend install the Blue Ox baseplates on the truck, and I did the install of the braking system myself. I couldn't be happier with the way it works. No issues at all, and at a price that was far less than other tow bar/brake system out there.

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Old 01-31-2014, 06:15 PM   #20
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I use a Brake Buddy Vantage. Does take a minute to set on the floor, slide the arm onto the brake pedal, plug in the electrical and press test. It does everything past that. Dash monitor / Control is wireless.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:41 PM   #21
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Really happy with AF One and Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar.
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:32 PM   #22
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There are several that I would recommend. SMI AirForce One, M&G, and Unified are a few with SMI probably the most popular. All of these, once installed, are super easy to connect up when ready to leave. There are probably a couple of other similar operating systems I didn't mention. Which ever brakes system you chose make sure it is one that energizes the toads power brake system, either hydro boost or vacuumed assist.
A brake system that simply pushes on a dead brake peddle is not going to be as responsive to an emergency stop. (My opinion only).
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Old 02-01-2014, 03:56 AM   #23
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Zak.....typically when you buy stuff for your RV, you can always find several choices and generally the most expensive is the best. This is one of the few times that it's almost impossible to find the perfect product or best product. There are several types of brake systems that offer different methods of applying the brakes.

There are two models that are specifically designed to use with the air in a DP brake system to proportionally stop your tow vehicle. When I was hunting for a system, it was frustrating trying to find exactly what I wanted.

The M&G air brake system connects to your tow vehicle by mounting in between the master cylinder and power booster of your tow vehicle. I think it's one of the best and simplest, but the first vehicle I towed with my DP was a Dodge Dakota and there was no room for the M&G unit. The other down side is that if you change vehicles, you have to buy another M&G unit that matches your new vehicle.

I bought the Air Force One unit that connects an air driven piston to your brake pedal from under the dash. It stays permanently connected. Connection to your coach is just an airline and electrical plug. I've had three tow vehicles and have moved the Air Force One from one to another.

It also has a break away tank that if the tow vehicle breaks away from the coach, the brakes are applied. The only thing I don't like about this unit is that if you feel the need to apply the brakes independently of the coach (something I would like to have) you can't. This isn't a big issue though.

Another problem I ran into with the units that permanently attach to your brake pedal is that my current tow vehicle, Silverado LTZ, has adjustable pedals. I have to make sure the pedals are adjusted all the way out when I tow the it.

There are some systems that sit on the floor board of your vehicle that require connecting and disconnecting each time you tow. I want my RVing experience to be effortless and found this was not a system I wanted. Some of these also sense deceleration and apply the brakes, but often have issues and wear out the tow vehicles brakes. This was a big issue years ago, but they are better now.

There is another unit that a lot of people really like. It's called a Ready Brute, made by Night Shift Auto. It has a surge brake built into the receiver shaft of the tow bar. It's just like the old boat surge brakes. It senses pressure during a stop and then pulls on a metal cable that is plumbed through the front of your vehicle and connected to your brake pedal. I think this is a pretty simple way to go for a lighter car. My friend uses one to meet the legal braking requirements, but really is not too concerned that it works really well.

I bought a new coach today and will be removing the SMI air line and black box from my current coach and adding it to my new coach. So my SMI unit has now been on three tow vehicles and two coaches and still works well. I'm also using the same tow bar you purchased as it meets my needs for towing my Silverado which occasionally has my RZR in the bed (10000 lb capacity).
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:00 AM   #24
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We had an SMI brake for 8 years. On my 2012 Explorer (4800#) I went with the RVi brake. Sits on floor, it is non-invasive, compact design and can be used in other vehicles!!!! I love it!
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:23 AM   #25
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For me the question is "How do you want the Supplemental Brake system to operate?"

With the Proportional System the brakes on the Towed Vehicle (toad) are applied whenever the brakes on the MH are applied. This is a good system however it may be hard on the toad's braking system depending on the settings. A friend of mine using a proportional system had to have their toads brakes "turned" yearly due to warping of the disk brakes. I always assumed this was caused by the Proportional Braking System.

In my case, driving a 45 foot DP, I setup my system using a BrakeBuddy with the sensitivity set and the braking "pressure" set to come only during a "Hard" stop. My thinking is during a normal stop the MH has plenty of braking power to compensate for normal braking. I am towing a 5000# Explorer and I'm using a 10,000# towbar. I have used this setup since 2004 and have driven nearly 100,000 miles without incident. I have been thru 3 Motorhomes and 4 Toads in that time.

There are many great braking systems. Think thru how YOU want the system to operate. This should help you focus on what type of system to purchase. While at the last Tampa Super Show I almost purchased the SMI AF1 as a good friend highly recommended it...but I fell back on my MO of only wanting braking assistance during hard braking.

Hope this helps. Good luck in the hunt.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:14 PM   #26
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Zak

You said you wanted to keep it simple. Forget the computers and electric actuators and switches and 12VDC and fuses, etc. I bought the AF1 system after reading posts on the forum. Took a look at the complexity in the box...went to a professional towing shop and they told me to send it back. They ALWAYS recommend and install M & G...if the MH has air brakes and the towed has space in the engine compartment. Think about that.

M & G Engineering - Car Braking Systems: Independent Product Reviews

Look, everybody thinks they bought the best system and want to convince others. You can thank me and those who have recommended M & G later.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:29 PM   #27
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I am truly in needs of some solid advice from experienced veterans of towing a vehicle behind your DP... 2014 MADP 4369 being built now for spring delivery. Need to toad a 2014 dodge ram Laramie limited 1500 across the US in June...including the western mountain ranges...

Pretty much settled on a roadmaster blackhawk II, 10,000 lb all terrain tow bar...but have no idea what brake system to buy. I would like something easy to use and easy to set up each time. Only towing this pickup, not multi vehicles. I am not crazy about the dealer recommend brake buddy as the whole air compressor, clamp arm and sits on the floor against the drivers seat thing seems sketchy to me. Like a failure waiting to happen...? I have no experience with them, maybe they are great?

Is there a quality system you seasoned travellers would recommend? I am paying the dealer to install properly...but want something simple to plug in and tow. Not crazy about running wiring through my new coach for cockpit monitors or controls either. I get that it's good to know the toad brakes aren't engaged when they aren't supposed to be, but would prefer something simple on the dash that's radio or signal base then hard wired?

Sincerely appreciate any advice from those that have learned over the years what works and lasts.

Thanks so much, great site and source of help! E.
I used the m&g on my first jeep and it worked good, however you have to buy new or trade it in if you change vehicles. It is model specific.
I have used the smi Air Force 1 on the last three toads and is is a great system. It is not model specific and you can put it on any vehicle when you trade. I have changed it over myself. It is directly proportional to the brakes on your mh. Only an air line to connect to the mh and you're ready to go. I now tow a 2012 Dodge Laramie Longhorn. Have a 2014 Longhorn on order so I will once again change it over to the new truck. I have used the same air force one unit since 2008 and it has worked flawlessly on all three vehicles. Never had a toad brake problem. Had it on a Ford Edge, a 2009 Dodge and now a 2012 Dodge. Noel
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:44 PM   #28
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How about a brake system by U S Gear? When hooking up I do nothing besides plug in the umbelical cord. About as simple as it gets.
Sounds interesting Unified Tow Brake I have not head of this one.
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