Community Forums

Wesslvm · 05-02-2016, 04:41 PM

1. While pulling our toad, the coach was not charging the toad. With my previous motorhome (same toad) it worked fine. I am able to monitor toad voltage on my Even Brake remote panel.

I looked under the coach at the wiring to the seven pin connector, didn't see any unused wires from Ford, found several "extra" wires coming form the 7 pin socket.

I looked under the coaches dash at the fuse panel and wiring distribution, again nothing obvious, although the fuse box didn't have any labeling that I could see. :(

2. Solar prep. I pulled the instrument panel over the coach entrance door to see what is there. I found a loop with a tie wrap flagging it as solar from the roof, passing on to the battery bay (via?). In the battery bay I see the cables terminated. Obviously I can't mount a controller in the battery bay or in the instrument panel, so what was Newmar's intent in putting this loop there? Maybe the loop will allow me to pull cable from above/below?

So, what have others done with recent productions of CS? My unit was built in July of last year.

Look forward to any insights you may have.

Wes

Luv2go · 05-02-2016, 05:26 PM

Here's a thread that shows where my extra trailer wiring is under the dash. Hopefully yours is similar.

Newmar probably expects you to use a panel mount charge controller like this one from Blue Sky. I'm not sure the wire gauge is big enough for higher amperage controllers such as their new 3000i, I'd recommend 6 or 4AWG from the controller to the battery for 30A to minimize voltage loss.

Wesslvm · 05-02-2016, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luv2go

Here's a thread that shows where my extra trailer wiring is under the dash. Hopefully yours is similar.

Newmar probably expects you to use a panel mount charge controller like this one from Blue Sky. I'm not sure the wire gauge is big enough for higher amperage controllers such as their new 3000i, I'd recommend 6 or 4AWG from the controller to the battery for 30A to minimize voltage loss.

I looked at your trailer wiring picture, I didn't see any such wires on my unit, but I'll have to look again.

As for mounting, I guess you are right about using a panel mounted controller. I had the panel off today and it is not very thick, but I guess with proper reinforcement it could work. Agree with the wiring size, but since it came pre-wired with 10 ga I may be SOL unless I can pull my own cables using the existing cabling. Otherwise, I will have to start from scratch!

Wes

Dutch Star Don · 05-02-2016, 09:32 PM

Wes......The hot lead (charge line) is fused so that there are no issues with shorting it out. It's not hot when you buy it because some will never use it. I don't know where your fuse is located, mine is back with the starting batteries.

I have the same solar wiring as you. I mounted my controller on the wall near the power reel bay where my wires terminate. Not a typical install, but I added a small 2.5" x 2.5" analog DC gauge in the cabinet above the passenger seat. I just wanted to know that my panels were working and wanted to see what they were putting out during the day. I tapped into the wires provided by Newmar and connected to the analog gauge.

Wesslvm · 05-06-2016, 11:29 AM

Don, Newmar Canyon Star brand specialists informs me that no 12 volt line is run to the plug by either Newmar or Ford.

Looks like it's up to me to run a dedicated circuit.

Wes

Wesslvm · 05-09-2016, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wesslvm

Don, Newmar Canyon Star brand specialists informs me that no 12 volt line is run to the plug by either Newmar or Ford.

Looks like it's up to me to run a dedicated circuit.

Wes

And he was wrong. More to follow.

2016 Canyon Star 3710
Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

Wesslvm · 05-09-2016, 03:06 PM

So, after reading all the threads here, it turns out the wires were in fact dead headed just above the 7-pin connector.

I hooked up the orange to the unused batt charge connector, and I hooked up the black wire to ground.

In the coach, there were in fact unconnected trailer towing wires under the dash, zip tied to the parking brake bracket. I ran the black wire to ground and attached a spade connector to the orange wire, connected to open connection on the fuse block, and installed a 25 amp fuse.

Taped and tie wrapped were needed, all done!

Thanks for all the help.

Luv2go · 05-09-2016, 04:06 PM

Glad we could help!

I'm glad Newmar went to a fuse block, on our coach we have a bunch of inline fuses for that wiring.

RainHurry · 05-09-2016, 06:49 PM

All my open connections on the fuse box are dead. How did you get power to one?

Wesslvm · 05-09-2016, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RainHurry

All my open connections on the fuse box are dead. How did you get power to one?

Power to the fuse box on mine is only live when the key is in RUN position. Of course, I had to add a fuse to the previously empty position.

Wes

Wesslvm · 10-10-2016, 06:04 PM

[QUOTE=Wesslvm;3050414

2. Solar prep. I pulled the instrument panel over the coach entrance door to see what is there. I found a loop with a tie wrap flagging it as solar from the roof, passing on to the battery bay (via?). In the battery bay I see the cables terminated. Obviously I can't mount a controller in the battery bay or in the instrument panel, so what was Newmar's intent in putting this loop there

[/QUOTE]

Just a follow up. See http://www.irv2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312074

2016 Canyon Star 3710