Community Forums

reubenray · 07-16-2017, 05:54 AM

Before with my shorter Tiffin I could park on my site and it would be level. Now with the 7'+ longer Ventana LE the front tires are on the downhill slope. I have been using 4 layers of 3/4" thick stale mat under the tires to try to get it level. It is close, but it is a PITA to park on them. Even with these I will have to use my jacks before I open up any slides due to the reveal. I am now thinking to not waste my time setting up the 4 layers of stale mat and just park on one. How important is it for the motorhome to be parked level while parked at home. I have full power hookup's and the a/c's are running. The residential refrigerator will only be run a short while before we take a trip and a short while after we come back. When I do level up with the jacks I am sure my front tires will come off the ground. I figured I could put something under the tires after leveling the motorhome.

Would this work without damaging anything?

chrisgoforth · 07-16-2017, 07:47 AM

I am so glad you posted this. I was going to ask the same question. My situation is the because of the slope of my driveway my front right wheel is off the ground by about 3 inches and my jacks are almost fully extended. It will probably stay in this position for several weeks at a time.

FlyingDiver · 07-16-2017, 07:53 AM

Level isn't really required as long as you don't have (or run) an absorption refrigerator. Residential fridges don't care.

BrianGlenn · 07-16-2017, 07:58 AM

Opening the slides and the non-residential fridge operation are the two main items that need the coach to be somewhat level.

I use the word somewhat because some slides can have 1 or 2 degrees off level and still operate without binding, or putting excess stress on the mechanisms. Some slides need level - check your operating manual to see if they stress (demand) that the coach be level before opening/closing slides.

There are differing opinions on how level the coach need to be for non-residential (adsorption) fridges to properly operate the ammonia/hydrogen system. I have seen some manufacturers literature in the past that suggested a 6 degree side to side and a 3 degree front to back.

If you have jacks that lift off the front tires to level, simply raise a little more and put boards under the full contact area of the tire, and lower it back down to take some weight. Im sure you know to never raise the rear tires off the ground as the coach may roll (parking brakes are in the rear).

My thoughts,
Brian

EDIT: Opps FlyingDiver posted a succinct answer while I was typing my story - I gotta post shorter answers......

chrisgoforth · 07-16-2017, 08:03 AM

My particular situation is that I need it close to level because my wife and I are using it at the moment due to a remodel of our bathroom. Also we use it on occasion for guests. unleveled it has a large degree of slope and is not comfortable to even sit in.

reubenray · 07-16-2017, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisgoforth

I am so glad you posted this. I was going to ask the same question. My situation is the because of the slope of my driveway my front right wheel is off the ground by about 3 inches and my jacks are almost fully extended. It will probably stay in this position for several weeks at a time.

I always use my 4" x12" jack pads whenever I need to raise my motorhome up high. This keeps the jacks from extending to much, plus the motorhome is more steady.

joes2901 · 07-16-2017, 08:31 AM

My Bay Star is short and does not have a full wall slide so it is lifted by the front jacks to level with no strange sounds. The rear suspension handles the compression on the driver side wheels an moderate compression on the passenger rear wheels. The front jacks are almost fully extended and I have to use a 20" 2 step stool to reach the first step on the RV's stairs. It sits like that for months with chocks at the rear wheels.

Spk64 · 07-16-2017, 08:43 AM

I like to use ramps at home for extended parking times. If it is a short period I will use jacks but I do not have to lift tires off ground.
With ramps I just get to position less ramp length. Place ramps in front of tires and back or pull up onto ramps. I then use jacks to stabilize or fine tune.

bokobird · 07-16-2017, 08:45 AM

At home where I park, I needed a 6" rise to get the rear level. After some construction around the house I had some left over custom-cut 2" by 12" hemlock planks and cut some of them up to create a nice ramp I could back up on. There are four of them, one for each rear tire.

vsheetz · 07-16-2017, 08:48 AM

Ramps or blocks under the front tires would be the best solution. Imho.

Polyian · 07-16-2017, 09:27 AM

I use 3 layers of 2x10 with the ends angle cut, bottom one is about 24", middle 18" and top 12", similar to bokobird's picture above. I back in within a couple of feet of where I want to park, place the boards behind the front wheels and then back on to them. Set the parking brake and put the MH in park.
This gives me about 1 % slope (down on front) but close enough for the fridge and slides to operate. I leave the jacks up as the wheels are all supporting the motor home.

nothermark · 07-16-2017, 09:40 AM

I cannot understand why I would not either drop the back or build up the front to make the MH Level in the correct position. Short term storage is one thing, long term tends to let things warp to conform to what gravity dictates.

Dutch Star Don · 07-16-2017, 11:20 AM

"reubenray".....When I replaced my 36' Diplomat with my 40' Dutch Star, my parking slab was now 4' too short. I didn't want to pour another slab, so I went to a local construction supply yard and bought (8) 2' x 2' x 2" thick concrete squares (stepping stones). I put down a sand base and placed the 8 squares down. I don't actually park on them because they're at the rear of the coach, but they give me my sold surface to walk on and service the coach.

reubenray · 07-16-2017, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nothermark

I cannot understand why I would not either drop the back or build up the front to make the MH Level in the correct position. Short term storage is one thing, long term tends to let things warp to conform to what gravity dictates.

I can't drop the back so raising the front is the only option. To make it more difficult I have to be a certain distance from the side and a certain distance from my power pedestal. I guess it will get easier as I do it more often.