Community Forums

Dougjpr · 04-29-2017, 04:43 PM

We picked up our first coach a few weeks ago, a 2005 DS 3810.
Exterior finish is in very good condition except for a few scketchy areas on the top of the front and rear caps, which will need to be repainted from what I have read.
Just curious as to what wash and wax products others have used to keep their coaches looking good

Thanks
Doug

Winemaker2 · 04-29-2017, 07:33 PM

What do you mean by sketchy areas???

Think auto paint...
I've started using swirl remover with a good dual action polisher and foam pads to remove any dull / scratches. Uused to wax but have moved to using polymer sealants and been very satisfied...EZ on EZ off and water beads longer than w/ wax.
I've tried some of the name brands from auto website - Wolfgang Polymer paint sealant is good. EZ on & off... I did a head to head comparison (half vehicle each) between Wolfgang & NuFinish and they seemed to be roughly equal. NuFinish available in any auto parts, W world, etc.

If you like wax - try one of the Collinite waxes - but polymers are easier and better IMHO

Capt. Bill · 04-29-2017, 08:44 PM

I have used Theford Wash & Wax to wash my last 4 coaches over the past 21 years & wouldn't switch for anything. I use a very soft brush on Aluminun extension pole with a bucket with a sediment guard in the bottom 1 1/2". The coach stays really shiny & looks great.

I wax it once yearly with Protect-All liquid wax- spray it on lightly on cleaned surface & wipe it off. It really leaves a very slick surface & great shine.

I have found that these products work very well & last for a long time.

Happy Trails

Jeff426 · 04-30-2017, 04:30 AM

Good Morning,

Funny you should just ask? I just spent the week washing and waxing our 2015 DSDP 4369, it took about 10.5 hours total time which included washing the roof. I took 4 days, used meguiars ultimate liquid wax, hand rubbed and buffed. It was a big job but I would do it again and do it the same way!
Good luck and all the best

Jeff and Lynn

lonfu · 04-30-2017, 06:24 AM

I use hot water. yup, that's all, just hot water, if it can't be desolved with hot water and a brush then time to get out the carb cleaner. I use spray wax on my drying towel that fits over my wash brush every time I dry it, don't put it on thick, coach looks like it is brand new.

BrokeDown · 04-30-2017, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt. Bill

bucket with a sediment guard in the bottom 1 1/2".

I recently read that pro's use 2 buckets. One with soap and water and one with just water. After washing a section, they rinse the brush in the water bucket before dipping it in the soap bucket. The keeps the soapy water clean and at full strength.

-B

Dougjpr · 04-30-2017, 10:56 AM

Here is a pick of the "sketchy area"

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1493571248

Dougjpr · 04-30-2017, 10:58 AM

Not sure how pic got turned, was vertical on my computer, but paint looks just as bad from this angle too.

**TonyDi** · 04-30-2017, 11:35 AM

I don't see much difference in wash products (except claims made in ads). Any good car wash will do fine.
We have been using Rejex for years, and our coach looks great. We started using it on the front and mirrors to minimize bugs. It worked. So we started using it on the whole coach. It's good for 6 months. Easy to apply and wipe off. It can also be used on glass and acts like Rain-X except it lasts longer.

jfran304 · 04-30-2017, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyDi

I don't see much difference in wash products (except claims made in ads). Any good car wash will do fine.
We have been using Rejex for years, and our coach looks great. We started using it on the front and mirrors to minimize bugs. It worked. So we started using it on the whole coach. It's good for 6 months. Easy to apply and wipe off. It can also be used on glass and acts like Rain-X except it lasts longer.

+1 on the Rejex.

If applied right it will last and lives up to its motto "Nothing sticks but the shine". We apply it in the spring and summer when the temperature isn't as hot. They recommend that before the first application you remove all of the old wax.

RejeX: Nothing Sticks but the Shine!

Jon

Ludmilla · 04-30-2017, 02:48 PM

I have been using Wash and Wax All on my coach and cars for many years and I am very happy with how easy it is to use and how well it works.

alan1 · 04-30-2017, 02:59 PM

Dougjpr

Your clear coat appears to have "died" in your picture.

brobox · 04-30-2017, 03:07 PM

I also just used a polymer sealant for the first time.....I will never wax again.
I used Meguir's 21 and I am sold on it. I could not believe how easy it was to come off. I also used a hand orbital buffer with foam pad just for the easy of putting it on, wipes right off with a microfiber towel. The shine is unbelievable.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirr...lant+2.0+32+oz

c92vette · 04-30-2017, 03:34 PM

Your clear coat has oxidized and peeled. Only solution for that is sand and recoat. Waxing will not do anything for it. You can recoat it if you are careful not to get into the pigment. You would have to wet sand starting with 1000 grit on the white peeled areas and going up to 1500 grit (wet sand always) to remove the bad clear coat. The objective is to leave a very thin layer of original clear coat on the surface so you don't disturb the pigment. Then you get to recoat and wet sand again followed by buffing with polishing compound. After that you let it cure for a few weeks and apply the desired wax to protect it. Frankly, this is a body shop task to recoat the finish and have it look great again.